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I just installed my swing arm. I set the pivot bolts to the same measurement as when I removed them. The bolts don't feel very snug at those measurements, and I can tighten each side about another 1/16" or or. 

 

Do I tighten them down so that they're snug, or just leave them at the original measurement and call it a day?

Ken

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I just installed my swing arm. I set the pivot bolts to the same measurement as when I removed them. The bolts don't feel very snug at those measurements, and I can tighten each side about another 1/16".

Do I tighten them down so that they're snug, or just leave them at the original measurement and call it a day?

Ken

The shop manual is a bit average on this subject. It says "assemble in the reverse order to disassembly".

Guzziology doesn't specify a torque that I can find.

So, if it was my bike, I would tighten the pivots up evenly until the swing arm binds, then just fractionally back off until the swing arm moves freely without binding through the full range, and without any sideways movement. Then align the front and rear wheels with string or straight edges, whichever is your preferred method, but keeping in the same clearance. Marty.

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roller bearings do not like axial load. Just remove ALL slack on these situations and then jam nut .

You are right, roller bearings do not like axial loads.

However the swing arm bearings are not rollers. Part number 92218418 bearings listed in the parts catalog are described as "bearing with two ball crown wheels" and in Guzziology as "double row sealed round-ball bearing".

I guess that roller bearings would be fine if thrust washers were fitted to take the swing arm side loads.

Regardless, we agree that all the slack needs to be removed.

Marty

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  • 6 years later...
On 6/21/2015 at 4:26 PM, gstallons said:

When you replace the swingarm bearings , remove the dust shield of one side of the bearing and fill it completely w/wheel bearing grease . Put the dust shield back on and install this side in away from the outside of the bike. .Roller bearings come w/just enough grease to not rust. This bearing is not going to roll but pivot a few degrees throughout it's lifetime so grease is going to make it last from now on. 

When you are ready to install the pivot pins grind a bevel or taper on them so they will go through and into the bore of the bearing easily. If you crossthread these pins , just remove the swingarm and screws them from the inside out to clean up the threads .

 Good luck & keep us posted !

Hello everyone,

While installing the pivot pins I have accidentally cross threaded the left one. In my opinion it’s nothing major, only the first two threads are affected however it is enough to prevent the pivot pin to line up and to easily screw in. (please see the pictures included, the damaged thread is at about 6 o’clock in the very entry to the hole)

I am thinking about rethreading the pivot hole from the inside with a relevant threading bit. Does anyone have experience with repairing the swing arm pork chop pivot holes? I am assuming it’s M22x1 of metric fine thread – but I will gauge it properly of course.

I am expecting to screw in the threading bit from the inside, where the threads are ok. This way the threading bit will line up with the existing threads and it will probably go thru easily for about 95% of the hole length. Only then it will hit the damaged threads and cut thru them. So much for the theory 😊

Anybody attempted to rethread these swing arm pivot holes?

Thanks for your advice/opinion.  

20221106_202154.jpg

20221106_202206.jpg

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2 hours ago, Miro Kacur said:

While installing the pivot pins I have accidentally cross threaded the left one.

😊

I'd try fitting the left pivot pin from the inside, so that the pin swages the damaged outer few threads into line. After that, wind that LH pin out enough to fit the swingarm and RH pin. 

If you use a tap to recut the threads, you risk having a loose pin if you don't use the correct tolerance tap.

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20 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

I'd try fitting the left pivot pin from the inside, so that the pin swages the damaged outer few threads into line. After that, wind that LH pin out enough to fit the swingarm and RH pin. 

If you use a tap to recut the threads, you risk having a loose pin if you don't use the correct tolerance tap.

Thank you Marty,

Just for the clarity, here I found a similar thread in this topic: https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=104932.0;prev_next=prev#new

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On 11/7/2022 at 10:35 PM, MartyNZ said:

I'd try fitting the left pivot pin from the inside, so that the pin swages the damaged outer few threads into line. After that, wind that LH pin out enough to fit the swingarm and RH pin. 

If you use a tap to recut the threads, you risk having a loose pin if you don't use the correct tolerance tap.

Dear All,

I got a reply from Piaggo regarding this and the thread for the pivot pin is M22x1 with 6h tolerance - please see the drawing attached.
So I am assuming that the correct tap for recutting the female thread in the pork chop hole would be M22x1mm 6H (Metric Fine Thread)

Miro

swing arm pivot pin details.png

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  • 2 months later...

This might seem obvious to many. When I was reassembling the swing arm into the frame I found useful to put a wooden stick thru the frame hole and swing arm pivot hole on one side – to align them as much as possible (please see the picture).

Then I was able to correctly screw in the pivot bolt on the opposite side more easily. Of course, I had the swing arm top section already attached and fixed to the shock absorber.

20230108_114820.jpg

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13 minutes ago, Miro Kacur said:

Anybody please know the torque setting for those big lock nuts that go onto the pivot bolts. You know, those lock nuts that tighten the pivot bolts to pork chops...

Thanks a lot!

I see no value for the lock nuts in the Workshop Manual on the torque value page nor the swingarm section ("Assemble in reverse order.")

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