removing the clutch slave?

[JGP]

Swing arm is out. It's the sub-frame that's the problem. If you look to the OPs posted photo, it's pretty clear. Bjorn spoke about removing the "tiny" sub-frame. Not sure what he was referring to or how it is removed. Too bad about his photos. In plain English, "the clutch don't work".

[Lucky Phil]

16 minutes ago, JGP said:

Swing arm is out. It's the sub-frame that's the problem. If you look to the OPs posted photo, it's pretty clear. Bjorn spoke about removing the "tiny" sub-frame. Not sure what he was referring to or how it is removed. Too bad about his photos. In plain English, "the clutch don't work".

Remove the subframe with the tube running across the slave cylinder. It's pretty obvious how it's bolted in when you look at it.

Have you bled the clutch?

Phil

[JGP]

Ok. I need to look at this in the AM. If I recall, it attaches at the pork chops and also on the upper frame somewhere. I need to think about how I am going to brace this thing. Maybe a motorcycle jack under the motor and a cherry picker for the rear frame section. There is a special place in hell for Italian and German automotive engineers.  Yes, bled more times than I want to recall. 

[docc]

"Operators are standing by" . . .

[JGP]

I have an only owner, ever too. It has 10,000 miles on it. First week of ownership it had a short and went back to the dealer, shortly after the factory-installed incorrectly-sized tranny spring blew. Which I changed, to the correct-sized spring, thanks to this site. Then the rear bearing blew, and I changed the incorrectly-sized factory installed spacer, and replaced the bearing, thanks to this site. The reflector on the headlight bulb fell off into the bucket. I threw that away. The breather hose disintegrated, a microswitch for the brake light failed, fork seals failed, the gasket for the timing cover failed, now the clutch is out. If I power through the trauma I can probably come up with a few more but its late and I am not that strong anymore. I don't need an operator, how about a factory team and a trailer full of spare parts?

[po18guy]

2 hours ago, JGP said:

Ok. I need to look at this in the AM. If I recall, it attaches at the pork chops and also on the upper frame somewhere. I need to think about how I am going to brace this thing. Maybe a motorcycle jack under the motor and a cherry picker for the rear frame section. There is a special place in hell for Italian and German automotive engineers.  Yes, bled more times than I want to recall. 

Try a installing a bleeder banjo bolt at the clutch master on the bars. Solved my problem with clutch air. 

Edited May 15 by po18guy

[gstallons]

Where did you come up w/this stuff ?

 Now , to the poster about removing the slave cylinder . 

 1 why do you want to remove it ? 

 2 are parts available ?  The last account I was aware of , everything was NLA .

 

 3 if it is a matter of bleeding , go for the bleed screw on the banjo fitting .

[audiomick]

2 hours ago, gstallons said:

 the bleed screw on the banjo fitting .

Or put one of these on it. I did, and it is great.

 

With that, you can bleed the clutch like this:

Edited May 15 by audiomick

[JGP]

It's not an air problem. I am not sure what NLA parts you are referring to. If you are referring to the slave, I am ahead of you. If you are referring to the clutch itself, I will cross that bridge, when, and if, I get there. 

[gstallons]

No...slave cylinder assy. only. I hear the assy. and or seal kits are no longer available. Why are you back there ? 

Is the clutch lever hydraulics not working properly ?

[Scud]

12 hours ago, JGP said:

Swing arm is out. It's the sub-frame that's the problem. If you look to the OPs posted photo, it's pretty clear. Bjorn spoke about removing the "tiny" sub-frame. Not sure what he was referring to or how it is removed.

FYI - there are two types of sub-frames. The larger of the two was introduce starting in the 2002 black (aka "long") frame models, which includes your Scura. It has two arms that attach to the engine block. The "tiny" version would be on a red (aka "short") frame bike - or black framed special edition Rosso Mandello.

While you have bled the clutch many times, can you confirm whether you have pressure at the lever? In other words, when you pull the lever in, does it resist? Also - when was the last time the clutch was working correctly?

You mention that you are the original owner. So I assume your Scura has the original clutch, which is a high-performance, single-plate unit mated to a lightweight and problematic aluminum flywheel. Unfortunately, that high-performance comes with a short lifespan. Are you aware of the problems with the flywheel cracking on Scuras?

Sorry to add your list of potential troubles... but I think it might be worth taking the transmission or engine out to inspect that flywheel. Many of us Scura owners have replaced the stock clutch with an aftermarket RAM single plate unit. It's an easy swap (after the difficult part of getting to it).

[JGP]

Yes, there is resistance. Feels right, no clutch. Thank you for the education on frames. I have not gone out to reinspect, but what you are describing lines up with what I recall. Makes sense that the "tiny" sub-frame is easier to remove.  All stock. I am aware that some have had issues with the flywheel and many have not. While I don't throw a lot of credit to MG these days, I also understand that some people drive their bikes much differently than others. So, if I need to go to the clutch, I will inspect the flywheel carefully and make a decision.  If not, I will live with it as is. Thanks again, good info.

[docc]

Just to clarify, the clutch will not disengage so that the bike rolls freely or the clutch does not engage such that the bike can transmit the engine's force through the gearbox?

[JGP]

The engine is engaged to the transmission in a meaningful, powerful relationship that cannot be separated by mechanical force, as designed.  AKA "The clutch don't work"

[docc]

Thanks for the clarification. When my clutch "didn't work", it would not engage.