removing the clutch slave?

[JGP]

Sorry, 6 parts. 3 were individually available.  The rest, including the 3 individually available, were available as a clutch package. Point remains, none relate to the push-rod assembly. 

[Tomchri]

9 hours ago, JGP said:

V2 Parts in Denmark. Not sure what tariffs do to the price. I picked one up last December. I have not yet pulled the old one to compare, visually, exterior looks the same.  Seems like others here have had success with it.

https://www.v2parts.dk/en/gearbox-and-clutch/clutch-parts/pin-koblingsarm-gearkasse-t-sp-lm-cali-1325-detail. 

 

Jens had to change the company name from Guzzi parts to V2 parts  .  They are the correct slave cyl with correct travel.

Cheers Tom.

[Lucky Phil]

10 hours ago, JGP said:

There are only 3 differences noted in the parts book between the single plate clutch and the multi-plate. None of those parts relate to the slave or the push-rod assembly.

You mean the parts book for the clutch assembly that tends to fly to pieces? What about the single plater that doesn't?

Phil

[JGP]

Not sure of the question? Parts book for the 2002 V11 found on-line. Scura and Tenni differences are in a window on the clutch page. Otherwise, shows all parts are the same.

https://motoguzzi.genuine-parts-catalogue.com/moto-guzzi-motorcycles/1100-MOTO-GUZZI-MOTORCYCLES/V11/2002/V-11-Le-Mans--Sport-Naked/ENGINE/Clutch/423/1/333000312/1001

[gstallons]

I was under the impression the clutch pushrod or something was different ? 

If they are all the same , the part # is 01086330 

Edited May 22 by gstallons

[Lucky Phil]

Maybe the topic has got a little side tracked which may have been my fault unintentionally. The only new single plate clutch you can fit to a BB these days is the RAM unit and the only one is for the 5 speed bikes. There has been in the past an issue with variations in the pushrod length relating to this.

The broad point I was initially making here is aftermarket parts and even OEM parts listed for different models to your bike can't be automatically assumed to be a workable option. Even aftermarket manufacturers dont cross check every detail and sometimes model changes can be subtle. Remember my issues with Andreani fork carts? Andreani say they fit 2001-2006 bikes but they actually don't. I've been through all this a million times in my bike and car world career assuming things will be identical across seemingly identical version of a bike or car.

Remember all the variations in V11 triple clamps that after 25 years we are only just getting a handle on?

The only way to know if the Oberon unit will work in reality is to try one. I'm just pointing out that there are risks and what seems like an obvious choice isn't always workable without modifications or at all. If it works I'll buy one. Who wants to be the guinea pig?

Phil  

Edited May 22 by Lucky Phil

[gstallons]

After some serious lurking , I found a Oberon vendor here in the US . The Oberon part # is CLU--0800 and it fits just about every MG product newer than 2005 . I have lost my Post-it notes and can't find all the applications but it does not show it fitting the V11s . Disclaimer : that is not to say it won't work , just that it is not the # for the V11. I didn't find anything for the V11 but you might call and find out ?

[Pressureangle]

On 5/21/2025 at 7:49 AM, Lucky Phil said:

No but there's a bit between the hydraulics and the pressure plate such as the pushrod length, and the pressure plate receiver for the pushrod. Also the clutch pack thickness has a relationship to the clutch slave cylinder travel in both directions. Imagine if the Oberon slave cylinder had less travel to the piston in the released or clutch engaged position. You could end up in a situation where when the clutch plate wears down and the piston is pushed further back into it's bore it bottoms out and then prevents the clutch from fully engaging..

I'd love someone to buy the Oberon unit and fit it so we know if it works for sure.

Phil

That'll be me. 
Ooo, pretty colors! What shall it be? lol

Red. For all the world to see.

Edited May 23 by Pressureangle

[JGP]

Back to the topic at hand. All the clutch related info is interesting however, i am still hoping for resolution with my NOS slave cylinder. I ventured back to this project thinking I was somehow going to remove the sub-frame bolts from the pork chops, loosen the lower connection points to the motor and then somehow swing the sub-frame a little to give some clearance to the slave cylinder. The sadist that designed that sub-frame has it welded to the upper frame member so, it will not move independently from the upper frame. Now, I am thinking I may be able to remove all upper frame member connections to the motor except, the most forward attachment point. I plan to loosen that connection and try to lift the entire upper frame and subframe so that it pivots a little on that front connection point. However, there is very little clearance between the drive shaft and a cross member of the sub-frame. I am hoping that if I take the shield for the U-joint off of the drive shaft, it will provide enough room to give me an inch or 2 so I can get at the slave cylinder. If anyone has thoughts on this feel free to provide them. This is the "stretched" version of the V11 frame. So, what is applicable to the "tiny" sub-frame models, may not apply.  

[Scud]

The subframe is not welded to the upper frame (unless that has been done a previous owner.) 

Here is a link to a picture showing that I had the subframe power coated, but not the spine frame. There are two bolts going through a plate that is welded to the diagonal brace that blocks access to the clutch slave. (go to the 3rd page of that thread, Dec 29, 2021 for the most relevant picture).

This brace does not exist on the red-short-frame bikes, I think it was added for rigidity, and the design compromised access to the cylinder. I am almost certain that you have to remove the subframe in order to get to the clutch cylinder. IIRC - you will need to remove the shift linkage too.

Edited June 6 by Scud

[JGP]

I just confirmed. In your photo, upper left attachment point of the cross-member is bolted to the cylindrical portion of the frame through the pork chop. I had thought it was welded to the cylindrical portion, which is itself welded to the upper frame. Should be easy to remove. Many thanks!

[JGP]

Interesting to note, I am not sure what model bike that is, but your sub-frame cross-member bolts to the 6 o'clock position on the left pork chop. Mine bolts to the 9 o'clock position (when looking at the pork chop from the outer face). Not as quite as obvious to see that it is bolted. It will teach me to look closer. Thanks again.

[Scud]

9 hours ago, JGP said:

I am not sure what model bike that is...

but your sub-frame cross-member bolts to the 6 o'clock position on the left pork chop. Mine bolts to the 9 o'clock position (when looking at the pork chop from the outer face). 

It's a 2004 Nero Corsa.

But starting in 2002, they are all the same with regard to frame and brace. You'll find two bolts. When looking from the outside, they will be at both 6 and 9 o'clock positions.

[JGP]

Yes. Right again. I should clean the dirt before commenting. The slave seems to weep a tiny amount of fluid when actuated, there is movement, not sure if it is sufficient. The piston moves about 1/8th of an inch proud of the inner face of the slave.  

Edited June 6 by JGP

[JGP]

In the spirit of full disclosure...I swapped out the new slave for the old, bled the system, checked the travel on the slave plunger and it seemed about the same as the old slave about 1/8", no weeping. Put it on the bike, pulled the clutch and tried to turn the drive shaft and it would not turn free. About a 1/4 turn each way before the gears take up the slack. Same result as with the old slave. So, I used compressed air to blow the plunger out of the old slave and dropped a couple of washers into the base of the slave and fit the plunger back in on top of the washers. Now its sitting about 3/16" proud of the face of the slave. I am thinking that before I go any deeper, I want to make sure there is no problem with hydraulics. So, I bolt the old slave back on with the plunger sitting 3/16" proud; which appears to be about the maximum travel of the clutch control cylinder which pushes on the clutch control rod. Get it bolted up, still cannot spin the drive shaft. I can safely rule out hydraulics. Now I am looking to pull the clutch control cylinder, rod, thrust bearing etc. I am doubtful that I have a problem there, but I feel the need to cover all bases before I hit the clutch. I will search this site, but if anyone has a procedure to remove the control cylinder, fire away.