sp838 Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Boy am I glad I updated my tank, that enormous fuel hose gives me nightmares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 3, 2015 Author Share Posted October 3, 2015 Determined to change out this degrading throttle cable before riding to Barber in five days, I pulled the tank and brought out the replacement cable I bought back in July. I remember the part numbers being a problem back in 2008, but figured that was all cleared up now. Not so! The original cable for the early Sports (01117530 with straight connection) is superseded by 01117590 which, apparently, fits the later V11 but has a 90˚ angle coming off the throttle control that does not suit the early configuration. Instead (according to MGCycle), order 01117560. Which I have used before, but forgot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Boy am I glad I updated my tank, that enormous fuel hose gives me nightmares. On closer inspection, and extended consideration, I'm concerned that resting my fuel line (and, therefor, the tank weight itself) on the cable housing deforms it enough to cause alignment problems which might shorten the cable life. Going back together, I'm planning on grooming the fuel line completely off of the cable housing and its bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 2 Author Share Posted September 2 On 9/14/2015 at 9:52 PM, docc said: Almost 2,000 miles on and the cable is showing definite signs of unraveling. Before I head to Barber Vintage Festival in a few weeks, I suppose I'm destined for the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist! (and the new throttle cable . . .) While I long ago groomed this known cable impingement to make a straight shot at the bell crank out of the cable housing, I found a new impingement point today at the entrance to the bell crank, itself. There is a hidden edge in there cutting into the cable. Just relieved mine with some jewelers files and cleaned up the damaged cable, but will have to get a new cable on order . . . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 59 minutes ago, docc said: While I long ago groomed this known cable impingement to make a straight shot at the bell crank out of the cable housing, I found a new impingement point today at the entrance to the bell crank, itself. There is a hidden edge in there cutting into the cable. Just relieved mine with some jewelers files and cleaned up the damaged cable, but will have to get a new cable on order . . . The throttle sleeve angle is an old issue docc. I have lockwire around the sleeve and tied to the bracket to pull the outer sheath into alignment with the bracket so the cable has a straight shot at the cam. Sounds like you have got the other damage sorted though. No need for a new cable. Even flight control cables are allowed some broken wires. Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 2 Author Share Posted September 2 4 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: The throttle sleeve angle is an old issue docc. I have lockwire around the sleeve and tied to the bracket to pull the outer sheath into alignment with the bracket so the cable has a straight shot at the cam. Sounds like you have got the other damage sorted though. No need for a new cable. Even flight control cables are allowed some broken wires. Phil I had simply bent the bracket for the cable sleeve to get the straight(er) shot. I'd like to see your "lockwire" solution. The hidden damage at the bell crank is new to me. I dressed the cable and the offending, sharp edge and will keep a better eye on it. Thanks for the reassurance on the single broken wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 7 minutes ago, docc said: I had simply bent the bracket for the cable sleeve to get the straight(er) shot. I'd like to see your "lockwire" solution. The hidden damage at the bell crank is new to me. I dressed the cable and the offending, sharp edge and will keep a better eye on it. Thanks for the reassurance on the single broken wire. Yea I've not seen that before either docc. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 2 Author Share Posted September 2 16 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: Yea I've not seen that before either docc. Phil I looked at that internal edge on a low mile bell crank and it looks nicely rounded. I wonder if my original had developed a sharper edge from cumulative use. . . . and being ridden like a jackrabbit on hot lava . . . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 (edited) 15 minutes ago, docc said: I looked at that internal edge on a low mile bell crank and it looks nicely rounded. I wonder if my original had developed a sharper edge from cumulative use. . . . and being ridden like a jackrabbit on hot lava . . . I don't have an image docc and the new throttle bodies on the Daytona engine don't suffer the issue. I considered bending the bracket as well but in the end I used some .028 lockwire in one wrap around the cable end Ferrell and wired back to the inboard side of the bracket. It served to pull the cable ferrell flange hard against the bracket face and keep it aligned. It also helped a tiny bit with throttle cable play as previously the ferrell flange would kick away at an angle to the bracket at zero throttle and then get pulled into alignment as you opened the throttle. If you look at yours when you open the throttle the ferrell probably gets pulled straight when you load the cable and all the wear occurs when the throttle is closed at idle or on the overrun. Thats the way it was with mine anyway. Phil Edited September 2 by Lucky Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 2 Author Share Posted September 2 6 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: I don't have an image docc and the new throttle bodies on the Daytona engine don't suffer the issue. I considered bending the bracket as well but in the end I used some .028 lockwire in one wrap around the cable end Ferrell and wired back to the inboard side of the bracket. It served to pull the cable ferrell flange hard against the bracket face and keep it aligned. It also helped a tiny bit with throttle cable play as previously the ferrell flange would kick away at an angle to the bracket at zero throttle and then get pulled into alignment as you opened the throttle. If you look at yours when you open the throttle the ferrell probably gets pulled straight when you load the cable and all the wear occurs when the throttle is closed at idle or on the overrun. Thats the way it was with mine anyway. Phil Ah! My solution was to squeeze the split bracket around the cable end Ferrell to capture it and prevent movement when the throttle is applied. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 I can't remember the company , I will have to look back and find it but I bought an inner cable and bought it 6'' too long . I bought a cable stop and put everything in place . I purchased some spring washers( I am calling for now) . These look like the washers that held brake drums on to cars. I pushed the washer onto the end of the outer cable to hold it SECURELY in the cable bracket and then put the cable stop in place and tightened. I will try to find part #s tonight and post . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 I was not able to find the package the inner throttle cable came in so it will be up to the individual to get an inner cable ( Google throttle cable repair) and have one made along w/an adjustable stop. J&P Cycles has a kitSKU 10240212 that may work . I can't remember what type of end is at the throttle barrel ? The push on retainer is a Balkamp (NAPA) part # 665-3209 . It will be loose on the cable sheath so you will have to flatten it out to hold . It comes in a pack of 50 , so you can experiment away ! I got the cable stop at NAPA too. I just can't remember the package part # . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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