Tomchri Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 A little quidance into the Guzzi world please. Just imported a 2003 Le Mans Rosso Corsa from Denmark with 49000km or close to 30000 miles But she wouldnt fire up the next day, cranks over, some times a little faster, found this forum, and some reading. Messed around with the relays, and fuel pump going. Then fires up, but could stall after 10m. then I could ride for 50miles, no problem. Stops for coffe, 20min, not firing,,, playing with the relays, hear nothing from the fuel pump,,,, and after 10 trays, she fires. then stall after 500 yards, starts up again, and could run for 5miles, fires up again and run ok the rest of the trip. New AGM 13 Ah, in the prosess of ordering Omron G8HE, checked ground on tranny, ignition switch just oiled with lanolin, (non conductive) have to take it apart probably. The bike puts a smile on my face just looking at it, so any tips will be apreciated. The clutch is slipping to when I do use her,,,, later, probably single plate ? Thanks tom christiansen. Norway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Before you go on another ride , it will be best to check every connection and " tighten" them . Learn how to remove and tighten the terminals in the relay / fuse panels , every safety switch .....well, if it is a wire check both ends . You will become a wiring/ electronics specialist . Also , can you explain the clutch slippage portion ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzigary Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 Do a search on the bullet-type electrical connectors under the fuel tank,possible cause. Rossa Corsas all dual platers AFAIK. Welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 As guzZIGary says, twin plate on the Rosso Corsa. Yet, the bullet connectors for the clutch switch will only prevent the start circuit from getting power, they won't cause the motor to "cut-out" or stall once underway. Just today, I helped a fellow with a 2004 LeMans that was doing this exact thing (intermittent running failure). GH8E High Current Relay in Position#5 and he rode over 100 miles with no problem! ( He was not getting more than 10 miles before). Exposing the Ignition Switch contacts for cleaning and inspecting the solder points is a good next step. The Sidestand Switch and its wiring can also cause stalling/cutting out issues, but much less likely than the relay and the Ignition Switch (IMCO) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 +1 on everything already suggested. welcome to the best Guzzi forum 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomchri Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Thanks to you all for replying to my problems. And to gstallons,,, clutch problem. I did change the fluid, the clutch feels fine when put in gear, no dragging, but experiened ONE time dragging at an intersection. I just turned the wheel at the clutch lever,,,,, problem gone... The clutch is slipping when Im heavy on the trottle in 4th - 5th - 6th gear. The little I have tried the bike,, I have felt a little shaking 2 times,, in 1th gear, taking of. Does this bike have the scary alu fly wheel ? What did I observe yesterday, my fluid in the clutch reservior has turned quite dark after about 70 miles. The last owner says he didnt have a problem with the clutch,, may be he was a 3 - 4000 rpm guy,, and I a 5 - 6000rpm guy. What clutch package are the most recomended today ? I will try with the relays first, my relaybase are all vaseline, and all the pins are visible. How about getting rid of clutch lever switch ? Problems shall be solved ! thanks again tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 Does this bike have the scary alu fly wheel ? No, the RC has the dual plate clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 Thanks to you all for replying to my problems. And to gstallons,,, clutch problem. I did change the fluid, the clutch feels fine when put in gear, no dragging, but experiened ONE time dragging at an intersection. I just turned the wheel at the clutch lever,,,,, problem gone... The clutch is slipping when Im heavy on the trottle in 4th - 5th - 6th gear. The little I have tried the bike,, I have felt a little shaking 2 times,, in 1th gear, taking of. Does this bike have the scary alu fly wheel ? What did I observe yesterday, my fluid in the clutch reservior has turned quite dark after about 70 miles. The last owner says he didnt have a problem with the clutch,, may be he was a 3 - 4000 rpm guy,, and I a 5 - 6000rpm guy. What clutch package are the most recomended today ? I will try with the relays first, my relaybase are all vaseline, and all the pins are visible. How about getting rid of clutch lever switch ? Problems shall be solved ! thanks again tom. You can bypass anything you want . Just don't forget it. I bypassed the N start switch on our farm tractor because the switch kept failing ( I had to remove the transmission shift cover to replace it ) until one day I started it from beside the tractor . I ran the boom pole 12'' into the side of the shop and moved one wall 6'' off it's foundation before I got the engine shut off. I have since repaired this problem by wiring a relay into this circuit removing all the current through the N start switch . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomchri Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 Update. Did take my tank of today, went thru all connections with Lanolin, a little loose ground on the left side of the frame. But all the same, no noise from fuel pump. Ordered 15 Omron relays today from Mouser.com in Sweden 32nkr - about 3.20$ a piece. They had 672 in stock. The side stand switch is definitly not working, easy to check. But since my fuel pump is not priming,,, RELAY ? Hopefully relays at the end of the week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 Probably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Yes the fuel pump not priming is a key, makes me suspect the ECU is not getting power, the pump should run for about 2 seconds every time you turn the key On or cycle the kill switch, it does this based strictly on time independent of any sensors. If you have an electric petcock the fuse for that is a great spot to check, a bad sidestand switch will result in low or erratic Voltage there. They are very likely to fail. The sidestand switch is normally bypassed when the bike is in neutral so if it starts in Neutral and stops as soon as you select a gear bingo! The stand can be bypassed simply by pulling the relay and stuffing a wire into the 30 and 87 contacts, some other models use 30 and 87a but its obvious by looking into the relay base. Note: If you bypass the stand switch this relay serves no purpose whatsoever since you now have the contacts shorted out. I suspect your 2003 doesn't have a petcock so you need to tap into the wire going to the ECU relay, I have suggested adding a 12 Volt LED to the relay itself between 86+ & 85- (basically a "Go Winkie Light") Update Refer to Carl Allison drawing for the 2004 VII Sport Catalytic, http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif You can see that the Stand switch (40) is in parallel with the 30 & 87 contacts of the stand Relay (15) Why Guzzi call it the Stand relay is beyond me, IMHO it should be called Neutral relay BTW, there may be some differences between the Nth American and European wiring, but I suspect not too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomchri Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 Thanks guys. Kiwi Roy, I will try to follow your advice, just waiting for my relays. S stand switch is gone for sure. Now Im trying to open the ignition switch, not funny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 The ignition switch is easy Disconnect battery Negative for safety Look up from under the head-stock Remove the two Phillips screws toward the rear of switch and the switch block comes off in your hand Loosen the clips and remove the back. Loosen the odd clip and tilt out the white plate Wipe off the old grease Replace with fresh Vaseline Put back together Try to fix the wires to the back cover so they aren't able to flex near the solder joints or they will snap off in no time. I don't think it's possible to put the switch back together incorrectly. I see you are using Lanolin, I'm kind of curious about that, I have used Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) for the last 50 years, perhaps Lanolin has some advantage? Neither grease is a conductor they lubricate to stop the parts wearing out and stop oxidation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomchri Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 Roy GOT the switch out perty easy, open it without breaking it with old drilling hands, I will look at it tomorrow. Lanolin oil from bæ bæ,sheeps, invented for US armyfor ballast tanks on ships. It climbs, doesnt dry out, spray half of your CAR door, shortly it climbs to the top of the door. Thanks Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68C Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Hi Tomchri, can you tell me more about the lanolin you used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now