How to strip engine paint

[John Neeson]

Hello All.

I have my 1100 engine on the bench ready for a new paint job. My plan was to strip the cases using paint stripper, then remove heads, barrels, timing cover and have them blasted and painted separately.  I tried using Nitromors, but it had no effect. Even tried wrapping it in cling film and leaving it on overnight.  Does anyone know of a paint stripper that actually works?  If I can't solve this, my options are:

1- Paint over existing finish - This seems risky as I will not know if it is going to work until I have the bike completely re-assembled and running.

2- Strip out the cases and have them blasted as well. - Seems like a lot more work + numerous special tools required.

Interested to hear about other's experiences of painting the engine

 

[Emeraldv11]

Hi from Cork!

The old Nitromors active ingredient was Methylene Chloride and would dissolve any paint.

It is now banned and the new stuff is as efficient as spring water.

Hers in Ireland you can still get methylene chloride based stripper but only by 5 liters for 'professional use only', about e40 a can.

If you check with suppliers of parts for the restoration of vintage tractors they should know how to get it.

I will have to do mine next winter and i wil attempt it with the engine i situ, small section by small section. Its only silver paint that the previous owner did with a brush. I will leave it in bare aly with ACF50 surface treatment,like my T5

[Weegie]

Another bloody Celt, this time from Scotland

I can't help with stripping but just wanted to add my tuppence worth to support @Emeraldv11 suggestion to leave the cases bare alloy. I've did this with 2 rebuilds where I got the casings out and sent to a professional casing restoration shop, so your case is a but different.

He used some form of ball bearings in a vibrating tank to peen the surface of the alloy, its been really good great finish and no problems with furring or the like. If you didn't/couldn't do that ACF50 sounds like a good substitute treatment.

I don't like engine paint at all, at some point it's just going to lift again and look awful.

[po18guy]

12 hours ago, Emeraldv11 said:

Hi from Cork!

The old Nitromors active ingredient was Methylene Chloride and would dissolve any paint.

It is now banned and the new stuff is as efficient as spring water.

Hers in Ireland you can still get methylene chloride based stripper but only by 5 liters for 'professional use only', about e40 a can.

If you check with suppliers of parts for the restoration of vintage tractors they should know how to get it.

I will have to do mine next winter and i wil attempt it with the engine i situ, small section by small section. Its only silver paint that the previous owner did with a brush. I will leave it in bare aly with ACF50 surface treatment,like my T5

Funny, isn't it, that methylene chloride is used to decaffeinate coffee beans and tea leaves? I have a quart can, but no idea if I will be able to replace it. I do use a respirator and nitrile gloves with it nowadays. Usually, that is. The new paint strippers? I use the orange oil based stuff, as it has that lovely citrus scent as it does nothing to the paint.

[Scud]

I used Rust Oleum brand Aircraft Remover to get the textured paint off a 2002 engine, tranny, and final drive. Stubborn spots still took a few applications.

Incidentally, I have an epoxy painted garage floor, and this is the only thing I have spilled on it that did immediate damage to that floor - including brake fluid and other paint strippers.

A decent paint job should last a while. If you DIY and save some paint, you can spot-paint over damage later.

[John Neeson]

Thanks for the tip Scud. I had a look online but it does not appear to be available in the UK.