Shock swingarm bolt replacement?

[docc]

16 minutes ago, Grim said:

Hmm, the Guzzi parts sites have it at 160mm, based on the part number, I wonder why the discrepancy. There is alot of exposed thread on mine come to think of it.

 

I was only saying 165mm from the Gutsibits description. From this image (assuming 165mm overall length, looks like about 150mm of smooth pivot shaft (no threads) . . .

I would not want my swingarm and shock eye pivoting on exposed threads . . .

[docc]

Can't you measure your banana-bolt for length? It is the length of the shaft without the head, yes?

[andy york]

I just measured the swingarm shock mounting bolt on a 1100 Sport I .

12mm Dia. by 130mm length as measured to the inside face of the cap head.

[Grim]

8 minutes ago, docc said:

Can't you measure your banana-bolt for length? It is the length of the shaft without the head, yes?

Yes...  Although I've put it back together!  I will take it out and measure it again.  I would say there was more than 5mm of exposed thread once the nut is done up, so it wouldn't make much difference either way.

 

[gstallons]

2 hours ago, Grim said:

I suspect that already happened, as it's got an aftermarket shock in there.

 

I *think* SKF are decent quality, I went for SKF 6204-2RSH/C3

Keep in mind ALL that prefix and suffix stuff means EVERYTHING .  You don't buy the best price , you buy the best quality for the application . 

 Do your research 

[docc]

15 minutes ago, Grim said:

Yes...  Although I've put it back together!  I will take it out and measure it again.  I would say there was more than 5mm of exposed thread once the nut is done up, so it wouldn't make much difference either way.

 

With the nut done up, I have 5mm exposed thread. I can't measure the bolt length in place, but I wouldn't want >zero< exposed threads if the bolt should be 165mm (rather than 160). My fastener source (McMaster-Carr) does not offer a "partially threaded" bolt in this specification with enough "pivot area" for this application . . .

[docc]

31 minutes ago, gstallons said:

Keep in mind ALL that prefix and suffix stuff means EVERYTHING .  You don't buy the best price , you buy the best quality for the application . 

 Do your research 

The SKF that failed me were not the SKF 6204-2RSH/C3 as @Grim sourced.

(These had rather thin inner races as shown in the image posted):

SKF 6204 2RSJEM (Made in Argentina)

I understand the increased radial tolerance of the C3, and 2RS (two rubber seals), but do not know what the difference in the suffixes "H" and "JEM" might specify . . .

Looks like "H" could mean case-hardened inner ring (good!) and the "J" : "stamped steel cage" (bad?) . . .

[gstallons]

Go to a fastener store and try to find a bolt with a non threaded length to suit your need . You can cut to fit your need . Take a hacksaw and remove the "extra" , leaving a couple of threads and spray this with whatever you feel comfortable with . 

FWIW , When the shock bolt is tightened , the only thing that is gonna "move" is the rod end on the shock .  Yjis bolt and everything it tightens becomes one piece .

[Grim]

1 hour ago, docc said:

The SKF that failed me were not the SKF 6204-2RSH/C3 as @Grim sourced.

(These had rather thin inner races as shown in the image posted):

SKF 6204 2RSJEM (Made in Argentina)

I understand the increased tolerance of the C3, but do not know what the difference in the suffixes "H" and "JEM" might specify . . .

RS is rubber seal

H is heavy duty

JEM is quiet running, apparently.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[docc]

30 minutes ago, Grim said:

RS is rubber seal

H is heavy duty

JEM is quiet running, apparently.

Yeah, well, they got quite >JEM< quiet after the noise stopped . . .

(Here, again, I had a short wheel bearing spacer, 112mm - not the correct 113mm, but those JEM SKF ate up in no time and left me stranded on failed new bearings.)

[po18guy]

Having just R&Red my rear wheel, I noted that the axle bearing on the drive side was marked as made in Poland. From past misadventures, I do know that the basic number of the bearing only specs out the physical size. As gstallons correctly notes, it's all the BRLXQ on the end that tells you how soon you will have to replace it.

[Steve S]

12 hours ago, Grim said:

Yes...  Although I've put it back together!  I will take it out and measure it again.  I would say there was more than 5mm of exposed thread once the nut is done up, so it wouldn't make much difference either way.

 

The bolt can’t be bent too much or it wouldn’t go through, can’t you straighten it? 
The shock doesn’t rotate on the bolt, the shock bush is clamped by the swingarm when you tighten the bolt and the shock rotates on the bush as the inner part it clamped

[gstallons]

15 hours ago, Grim said:

Hi...

So I has a few hours, and now my wheel and swingarm are on the garage floor...

The long bolt holding the shock to the swingarm is bent like a banana. I am heavy, but I don't think this was me. Can I get a replacement?  Or what are the specs?

 

A few other observations:

The wheel bearing on the drive side of the wheel was loose, found it floating about in the bevel box after knocking the axle out.  It is 47mm OD.  It is knackered, so I'm slightly worried the 47mm replacement I have ordered will also be loose.

I pumped both UJs full of red'n'tacky, whereby it pushed all the old grease out, but on the spline zerk I felt like I was pumping forever and never saw any grease coming out anywhere. I wasn't too worried because I coated the splines before assembly anyway.

There is some slight rotational play in the driveshaft before it picks up drive, there is no play in either UJ, or the splines, so it that just the gearbox?

All in  all though, not a bad job, helps to have the tool kit, but nothing in the toolkit fits the big swingarm locknuts??? Are they just supposed to be hand tight? 😁

BTW , just how "bent" and how did you remove this bolt ?

[Grim]

43 minutes ago, Steve S said:

The bolt can’t be bent too much or it wouldn’t go through, can’t you straighten it? 
The shock doesn’t rotate on the bolt, the shock bush is clamped by the swingarm when you tighten the bolt and the shock rotates on the bush as the inner part it clamped

Hi Steve, I could probably straighten it yes, a replacement is pretty cheap from eBay etc.

I meant if you put the bolt through and leave the nut off, and spin it from the socket end, you can see a slight oval movement in the shock and at the threaded end, with it all tight then nothing spins, as you say.

 

[Grim]

Banana may have been an exaggeration.