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Play in the Clutch Lever


LowRyter

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The bike was sitting for a while and we had some nice weather last week so I took the bike out.  All my bikes have different feel for the clutch but I noticed that riding the Sport that lever had more than 50% slack play before engagement.   I was thinking that's a little too much but not sure.  The clutch doesn't drag and doesn't slip.  Clutch holds bike stationary when in gear.  No complaints about the clutch, only a question about play in the lever.

So given that, I'd like some advice as to cause.

Next question I was thinking about changing the fluid.  Can someone tell me where the bleeder valve might be.  I see the line go under that tank but can't see where it connects to the to the bell house/engine/transmission, wherever.

Finally, if I need a master cylinder rebuild, are kits available?  Are the seals/parts available piecemeal? 

 

I did a search but I couldn't find the info here.  I figure that someone will know this off the top of their head.  Thanks.

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When my lever did that I found a broken spring inside the M/C. I recall another report of same.

M/C rebuild Guzzi part # 110436292 (12mm)

The bleeder is on the slave cylinder on the very back of the gearbox. Fiddly to get to, but possible.

Let me scare up some links & pics . . .

 

 

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Here is an image of the Grimeca slave cylinder from a rear view with no swingarm in the way. The bleeder is capped at the top left beside the clutch fluid line. (The red circle indicates the important main ground to the back of the gearbox which is not part of this topic).

IMG_2744.JPG

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Another view of the slave (with no swingarm) showing the location inboard of the (1st Gen Chuck-Made LuckyPhil Extended) shift arm . . .

IMG_2743.JPG

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     If you're thinking of tackling any job to do with the clutch M/C; imo I'd read up on Scud's ingenious idea to eliminate a nightmare and install a remote bleeder line from a Griso or Stelvio.

      I still curse when I think of trying to bleed that sucker, rebuilding the m/c would be the nightmare 10 fold for my meager skill set.

     fwiw

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Here, you see the bleeder just on the other side of the back of the starter. (The image illustrates the correct right angle alignment of the shift mechanism, but that is another topic).  The clutch can be bled without removing anything but the rubber cap, but it is fiddly and really helps to have the bike lifted and chocked upright.

DSCN1241.JPG

 

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Thanks guys.  I think I'll order the spring and have the clutch fluid changed with a rear tire replacement and driveshaft service?  Kill three birds with 30 stones (rather than a single bird with 27 stones).  

 

I suppose there is logical reason for burying the bleeder.  :not:

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Pretty sure that spring is not available by itself, but the rebuild kit is not expensive. I do recall having to Dremel cut the retention ring that holds it all together.

You might see if simply bleeding the clutch with fresh fluid restores your lever travel before we condemn the spring . . .

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4 hours ago, LowRyter said:

Thanks guys.  I think I'll order the spring and have the clutch fluid changed with a rear tire replacement and driveshaft service?  Kill three birds with 30 stones (rather than a single bird with 27 stones).  

 

I suppose there is logical reason for burying the bleeder.  :not:

I just added the remote clutch bleeder hose to the Encyclopedia. Here's a link: 

 

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Had good luck using this Motion Pro gizmo bleeding the clutch. Just make sure its fully seated..there's a gasket thing in the socket to direct the fluid thru the tube. If you decide to tackle this before a tire change, removing the starter motor et. al. provided decent access.

motion%20pro.JPG

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  • 4 months later...

I purchased the master cylinder kit and getting a rear tire put on the Greenie.  I'm getting the clutch serviced with the tire change.  Perhaps I'll need the brake fluid serviced too?   

The tire has been in my garage for about 4 years.  It looks good.  I had it taken off when I was thinking of a long trip.  The trip never happened.  It's the exact same tire model and looks a dang site better than the one coming off.  <tight wad Guzzi stuff> 

 

BTW- got a new tire on the Duc today, it's the same model too.  Dunlop RS3.

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On 1/16/2022 at 7:01 PM, leroysch said:

Had good luck using this Motion Pro gizmo bleeding the clutch. Just make sure its fully seated..there's a gasket thing in the socket to direct the fluid thru the tube. If you decide to tackle this before a tire change, removing the starter motor et. al. provided decent access.

motion%20pro.JPG

The best thing this tool does , is to keep the brake fluid away from things it's not supposed to touch .

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The diagnosis for my bike is the plunger pin is a little worn.  I do have the master cylinder rebuild kit is anyone has a need for it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just wanted to say Thank You for this thread. 

Changing my rear tire and I figured I’d lube the driveshaft and flush out the clutch line while I was at it. The clutch bleed nipple if freaking innaccesible— looks like removing the starter motor is the way to go. 

Anything else I should look at while the tire is off?  
 

Thanks again. 

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