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Fork seals, DIY or no?


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Doesn't it simply come down to: If your 2003 Sport has a short/ chin-pad tank (external pump/filter) and white face instruments, you should order parts from the 2002 Parts Catalog . . .

 

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Not sure if LaGrasta's original question got answered or not.  But I am planning a fork seal replace and have the same question.  However, my bike is a Scura with the Ohlins fork.

So -

Do I need a tool to hold the internals to remove the bolt at the base of the fork ?

Or is the Ohlins the type of fork that has a detent at the bottom to keep the cartridge from spinning ?

And yea, I know that an impact gun can be used to rattle the bolt out, but then you are only guessing at the correct torque on re-installation.

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Marzocchi, yes. 


@bbolesaz I did not. I had to use that technique on a recent fork rebuild on my 1982 GL500. For the V11, I merely laid the fork on the bench, and it easily came out using an allen-wrench and an extension for leverage.

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UGH! I was so excited that my new seal arrived yesterday I assembled it in my pajamas at about 9 at night. I woke up this morning only to discover I forgot the dust seal. It's a good thing this is an easy task, but seriously! :glare:

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13 minutes ago, LaGrasta said:

UGH! I was so excited that my new seal arrived yesterday I assembled it in my pajamas at about 9 at night. I woke up this morning only to discover I forgot the dust seal. It's a good thing this is an easy task, but seriously! :glare:

Yeah, that's the story of my life lately!  I am now used to the idea of it costing me another $8.95 for shipping plus the price of the part I neglected to place on the last order.  And, it is usually a nickel/dime item.:(

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Okay, okay so I'm not the only one. I admit, that makes me feel better about it. :D

So I test rode it today, no more seal leaks! Now, I'll adjust the clickers a bit, I'd like it a bit more soft.

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