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Roller tappets kit wanted


Rolf Halvorsen

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I've got a 'B' kit but I think I'm short one shim to make it into a 'C' kit. They are in very short supply at the moment. I waited six months for them, (B kits.) to appear at TLM and I grabbed both of them clearing them out again. Dunno what the situation is with SD but I'd guess no better.

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I think my friend needs a C-kit for his Griso 2010 with non floating head. I have an A-kit myself. Lets wait a few days to see whats pops up.

Is it correct that you need to update the software when you put in roller tappets? Someone from a dealer told me this.

Rolf

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If there is a drill mark in the paint on the side of the head facing into the valley adjacent to the manufacturing date stamp it's a 'B' kit bike. If there is no drill mark it's a 'C' kit bike 2010 was the year that changed so it's worth checking.

I suggest you have a look at my 'Definitive guide' thread on the Ghetto.

https://www.grisoghetto.com/t5879-the-definitive-guide-to-rollerisation
 

Yes the map needs updating but even the last factory map is a piece of shit. Buy the cables and download Guzzidiag and the 'Reader' and 'Writer' program and get a map off Mark at Griso.org. Orders of magnitude better than the factory option. Make sure the bike is tuned properly too. You do understand how to tune a W5AM Guzzi?

If it hasn't yet been done it will be necessary to grease and probably replace the swingarm bearings and shock linkage bearings. If it has ever been out in the rain for any length of time replacement will probably be required. Also check the integrity and attachment of the two drain hoses on the airbox and make sure they are capped/plugged. Nothing kills throttlebodies quicker than even small amounts of dust ingress. Don't be tempted by a K & N type air filter either as they too will cause you to need new throttlebodies at a cool $1,500US or so.

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Pete

My friend has a Griso 2010 without a drill mark - so he needs a C-kit. I understand that the difference between the B and the C kits are the 4 shims + 4 valve caps + 2 intake sealings + 2 exhast sealings.

If you have a B-kit with only 3 shims, I could still be intersted. Anything can be made. I suppose it is a steel shim of a specific thichness - this can me made by a machinist friend of mine. Please send me an offer on my private mailbox: rolf.halvorsen@mail.com

In the meantime I will ask my friend if he would buy yours - or "wait" for an application to the factory to get a free kit.

 

Regarding the computer stuff you are talking about - I have younger people around me for that "thing". I am 73 and started my hobby with the restoration of a 1923 Ford model T some 45 years ago. Computers is not my favorite.

Swingarm and shock linkage bearings - I understand - and it will be delt with, together with the 2 drains from the air filter box.

 

Is it more difficult now than before to "find" these A, B, C and D-kits?

Rolf

 

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877847 is the part number for the shims. By 'Valve caps' I take it you mean the valve guide oil seals? If so that is correct. You also missed head gaskets. These come in three thicknesses so unless you want to buy all three thicknesses, (They're expensive!) it's best to pull one head and check which ones you need. Most bikes use the *Middle* 0.85mm gaskets.

Dont be afraid of using a computer Rolf. Twenty years ago I was like you but really there is nothing much to it. The Guzzidiag suite of tools is simple and intuitive. If I can use it anyone can and you need to be able to use it to tune the bike as the TPS is an interpretive value rather than an absolute one on W5AM Guzzis.

Oh, and roller kits are in very short supply at the moment. Not absolutely sure why.

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  • 1 month later...

Pete

I am to purchase the 8V Griso 2010 - which needs the C-kit.

I have found the C-kit in Europe, but price around 1200 GBP.

The B-kit is available for around half this price. Since you informed me that the B-kit can be made to a C-kit - if you purchase some extra parts. Which parts are needed - and can you tell me the article numbers for these parts?

Is it wise to buy the B-kit + the extra parts, or is there any "problems" connected to this?

Rolf

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There are no problems with buying the parts separately Rolf. The only thing to be aware of is that you will need to know which head gaskets to buy and you won't know that for certain until you have a head off to measure one. Most, (Like 90% of) engines use the middle 0.85mm gaskets so it's pretty safe to buy them but if it turns out the guess was wrong you need to wait while you get the right ones.

Flick me an email, (I think you still have it don't you?) and I'll send you the list of what to order. In return you can tell me who the hell has 'B' kits in stock! I can't find them for love or money!

EDIT! I've got your email. Give me a few hours and I'll send you a list of bits you need.👍

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