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Driveshaft/Gearbox


cash1000

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5 hours ago, pete roper said:

...It's all a bit moot though. The box is going to have to come out anyway...

Yeah. I was just curious. When the box is correctly in neutral, the input and output shafts should be disengaged from each other. So if the obstruction is before the box, it shouldn't be locking up the output shaft when the box is in neutral, I would have thought. :huh2:

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@cash1000, visual inspection of the front driveshaft yoke shows it, and its fasteners, to be intact and unaffected?

I ask because mine changed abruptly one day (and finding the fault here would preclude removing the gearbox) . . .

IMG_3098.jpg

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My opinion is listen to what the experienced members here in this 20 year old V-11 forum tell you,, not what I see people on "Facebook are telling you..The motor should NOT have to come out imo...contrary to what Facebook people tell you, you don't need to do that to pull the transmission..find a place where you can support the bike from above with a "come along" or similar and a scissors table lift underneath, I have been thru this..Just Listen to what Pete, Scud, docc and other experienced members  tell you..they are the experts on this bike ..take your time..and "crab" the frame..You can do this. You will feel very satisfied when done and know your bike so much better.

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On 12/30/2022 at 1:25 PM, docc said:

@cash1000, visual inspection of the front driveshaft yoke shows it, and its fasteners, to be intact and unaffected?

I ask because mine changed abruptly one day (and finding the fault here would preclude removing the gearbox) . . .

IMG_3098.jpg

I'm hoping cause is something like your photo. Plan is to gather as much info as possible before I start dismantling i.e how I'm going to support bike: how to remove gearbox: who can repair gearbox if I can't 

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21 minutes ago, cash1000 said:

I'm hoping cause is something like your photo. Plan is to gather as much info as possible before I start dismantling i.e how I'm going to support bike: how to remove gearbox: who can repair gearbox if I can't 

That front yoke is not easy to see/assess within the front guard and ahead of the swingarm, but a bright light a close look should reveal if the yoke or uni-joint have gone awry.

With the left side shift plate off, any fractured sliding dogs/"hoses" should be detectable peering in with a bright light whilst rocking the gearbox back and forth with the rear wheel.

A flywheel failure, or clutch plate failure, would only be visible with the clutch removed from the flywheel "basket."

Then, there is the matter of finding the New Zealander with the proper "special tools" . . .

IMG_2737.jpg

 

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15 hours ago, pete roper said:

Pop it in a box and send it to us if it is the gearbox. It shouldn't cost a huge amount and we have all the necessary tools.

Thanks Pete for the offer. Could well take you up on that

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20 hours ago, docc said:

That front yoke is not easy to see/assess within the front guard and ahead of the swingarm, but a bright light a close look should reveal if the yoke or uni-joint have gone awry.

With the left side shift plate off, any fractured sliding dogs/"hoses" should be detectable peering in with a bright light whilst rocking the gearbox back and forth with the rear wheel.

A flywheel failure, or clutch plate failure, would only be visible with the clutch removed from the flywheel "basket."

Then, there is the matter of finding the New Zealander with the proper "special tools" . . .

IMG_2737.jpg

 

Took some photos of front universal using smart phone & Endoscopy camera. Not that conclusive. Couldn't load other photos. See my gallery.

Mission for today - put rear wheel back in to check movement in gearbox - shift bike to better working position in workshop - get back wheel & swingarm out

 

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I certainly cannot see anything untoward with the front yoke or Uni-joint . . .

The front part of the driveshaft tips all four directions in the Uni-joint without restriction?

(When my front yoke split, the U-joint was frozen.)

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