Driveshaft/Gearbox

[audiomick]

Looking at your photo, I would run the hose off the bleed nipple a got bit further upwards before letting it curve down to the floor. 10 or 12 inches would be appropriate. Support the hose before the curve starts.

The advantages are:

there is less stress on the hose at the nipple, so it seals there better

the straight section allows for some twist in the hose, which allows the nipple to be unscrewed enough for the bleed action without screwing the hose off the nipple

the straight-up section of the hose fills with fluid, so you can see much, much better what the bubble situation is when the nipple is released for the bleed action, i.e. unscrewed to let the air out

 

Changing my method for bleeding brakes, on the advice of a mechanic, from what I see in your photo to what I described changed the task for me from something I absolutely hated doing, and which always frustrated and angered me, to something that is merely tiresome.

[docc]

I found a wrap or two of Teflon® tape (plumber's pipe thread tape) around the bleeder's thread necessary to bleed effectively and stop any weeping fluid from the bleeder.

[cash1000]

Many thanks for the advice. I think I will go with the syringe method with the teflon tape around the nipple to restore the seal. MartyNZ I will contact you about the syringe

[cash1000]

The saga continues

Using syringe method I was able to inject brake fluid from slave to master cylinder.

Trying to pump fluid back the other way not so good. Very little fluid being pumped through.

Thinking I need to put a rebuild kit into Clutch master cylinder.

Teflon tape didn't work so well so under advice from Speed Bleeder guys I've resealed with Permatex high Performance Thread Sealant. It's a 72 hour set time so still waiting. They supply their own sealant but easier for me to get the Permatex stuff