MartyNZ Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 2 hours ago, cash1000 said: Good point about the screws. I wonder if they are Guzzi specific or are available from any good fasteners supplier Well yes, any metric grade 10.9 bolt would do if it has: - Rolled, not cut threads A section of plain shank to fit the hole snugly A head size that doesn't interfere with the clutch. The genuine MG part has already taken care of these considerations, and I see MG Cycle sells them for $1.68 ea. Since it's standard on lots of models, I'd ask Motokiwi for a price. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cash1000 Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 On 12/30/2022 at 7:24 AM, docc said: The nefarious fractured sliding dog ("hose")? Is your Rosso Mandello in that recall range, @cash1000? Yes it is. 20 years a bit late to claim on it? Any idea if I can find out if it's been done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 4 minutes ago, cash1000 said: Yes it is. 20 years a bit late to claim on it? Any idea if I can find out if it's been done? Seems Piaggio has a system to respond to records requests of that safety recall having been performed. Yet, those specific recall parts do not appear to be of issue with this bearing failure? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cash1000 Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 3 hours ago, MartyNZ said: Well yes, any metric grade 10.9 bolt would do if it has: - Rolled, not cut threads A section of plain shank to fit the hole snugly A head size that doesn't interfere with the clutch. The genuine MG part has already taken care of these considerations, and I see MG Cycle sells them for $1.68 ea. Since it's standard on lots of models, I'd ask Motokiwi for a price. Bolts on RM are an allen head type but yes they will need replacing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 So, this image is not the concerning junction of the aluminum flywheel with the back of the crankshaft. What we are looking at here is the "toothed wheel" or "toothed crown" / C: The actual flywheel is beneath (forward of) the clutch assembly and bolted to the back of the crankshaft. That is the area of fail concern on the aluminum flywheels. (The actual flywheel and the flywheel bolts to the crankshaft are not seen in these images.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 22 hours ago, MartyNZ said: I've got the alternator off my bike at the moment. You are welcome to come over to look and see how little it will help with accessing the clutch. BTW, the manual says "Screws “B” (flywheel bolts) must be replaced with new ones upon the following reassembly, due to the high load and stresses they are subject to; (apply thread locking product, Loctite, medium strength, to the screws and tighten to torques of Nm 40 ÷ 42)." P/N GU12067701 Qty 6. The actual flywheel (#7) bolts are seen, below, as #9 and obscured beneath the "Toothed Crown"/ #10. The Toothed Crown fasteners (#12) "Allen head type" are not the concern . . . 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cash1000 Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 45 minutes ago, docc said: So, this image is not the concerning junction of the aluminum flywheel with the back of the crankshaft. What we are looking at here is the "toothed wheel" or "toothed crown" / C: The actual flywheel is beneath (forward of) the clutch assembly and bolted to the back of the crankshaft. That is the area of fail concern on the aluminum flywheels. (The actual flywheel and the flywheel bolts to the crankshaft are not seen in these images.) Yet . . . are those visible cracks around the circumference of the "toothed wheel/crown?" Yes the toothed crown is what the starter motor acts on. I will check for cracks tonight 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 Getting closer and closer to getting eyes on the actual flywheel . . . Here is a view of mine (left / actual flywheel is upper right): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 On 12/28/2022 at 10:55 PM, cash1000 said: Hi Photo below of flywheel thru inspection hole. Redish coloured material looks like it has broken! The redish colour is not so much of a concern as the odd wrinkle/gap in the Crown. This oddity will soon be revealed . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cash1000 Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 20 minutes ago, docc said: The actual flywheel (#7) bolts are seen, below, as #9 and obscured beneath the "Toothed Crown"/ #10. The Toothed Crown fasteners (#12) "Allen head type" are not the concern . . . Thank for the Drawing Doc. So 10 is only the outer layer. The workshop manual mentions alignment marks to use when reassembling normal clutch/flywheel (Needed to ensure timing is correct?). Are there going to be the same for the RM clutch/flywheel? I will be watching out for them and taking plenty of photos 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomick Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 Looks to me like there is a chunk missing out of the "toothed crown". The disc with teeth around the outside that the starter engages to. In the photo above, there seems to be a rather large triangular shaped piece missing (at the bottom in the photo...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 On 1/1/2023 at 3:00 AM, pete roper said: With the driveshaft? It is aligned correctly isn't it? While a misaligned driveshaft itself won't cause the wheel to lock the forces imposed by the trunnions not being correctly aligned is certainly enough to bust stuff up. THIS. When you reassembled the driveshaft, how did you align it? Did you use factory marks? IME these can be totally incorrect. Check alignment of two UJ's looking along the assembly. My Scura exploded front UJ. Below pic on L is aligned as it came from new (aligned according to paintmarks) & prior to damage not previously disassembled. KB PS: Audiomick - the missing triangle looks to me like something unrelated placed in front of the clutch assy. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 On 1/9/2023 at 9:36 PM, cash1000 said: Thank for the Drawing Doc. So 10 is only the outer layer. The workshop manual mentions alignment marks to use when reassembling normal clutch/flywheel (Needed to ensure timing is correct?). Are there going to be the same for the RM clutch/flywheel? I will be watching out for them and taking plenty of photos Not for the timing, but the balance, I reckon: White marks: Crankshaft scribed plus white mark: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cash1000 Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 Got toothed crown off last night It looks fine Photos of both side 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cash1000 Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 I wasn't able to get clutch & flywheel out last night. Its to tight to remove by hand. Thinking I could use a 3 leg puller Thoughts? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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