Jump to content

Taped relays


activpop

Recommended Posts

OMRON G8HE! You're golden, man. This also reflects well that the PO had the insight to install those and may indicate further influences on the quality of your V11 . . .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, activpop said:

The plug block was not mounted, just stuffed into the space.

Well, that explains the tape then. That's a goog thing... :)

12 minutes ago, docc said:

OMRON G8HE...  may indicate further influences on the quality of your V11 . . .

Yeah, and tape instead of mounting bolts might too... :huh2:  :whistle:

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

5 hours ago, docc said:

OMRON G8HE! You're golden, man. This also reflects well that the PO had the insight to install those and may indicate further influences on the quality of your V11 . . .

 

4 hours ago, audiomick said:

Yeah, and tape instead of mounting bolts might too... :huh2:  :whistle:

Heh, touché . . . :blush:

I am reminded of a Rosso Corsa I tried to help someone sort. He said it came "from a Guzzi guy" and had paid a premium for it. I spotted the "Roper Plate" and made the (hasty) conclusion that the fellow must have known what he as doing.

Eh, no. There was no oil on the stick, barely any drained out, and it was tar-like. I recall that bike trying to strand us with relay failure, as well.

@audiomick makes some good points. :thumbsup:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, docc said:

OMRON G8HE! You're golden, man. This also reflects well that the PO had the insight to install those and may indicate further influences on the quality of your V11 . . .

Let's not jump to conclusions...lots of fiddle faddle needed here. Your original comment of "expect owner involvement" rings in my ears.😆

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, activpop said:

Let's not jump to conclusions...lots of fiddle faddle needed here. Your original comment of "expect owner involvement" rings in my ears.😆

Haha, well, time to give some additional consideration to what else is under the seat . . .

large.20230227_131239.jpg.c5de624f3c1834

First, battery:

> Notice how the seat has been cutting into the hold down strap. This could also indicate undesirable seat pressure on the battery case. While the seat pan can be relieved with a rotary cutter (Dremel®), consider a "battery basket drop" that places the forward basket mounts beneath the subframe. Drops the battery considerably and no more interference seat <-> battery.

> The terminal stacks are prone to loosening and developing corrosion.  While a simple loosening and dose of Caig DeOxit® would be well advised, tightening might best be achieved changing those fasteners to hex heads.

> Check the date code on the PC545 and learn to "condition" it, especially if the static voltage has dropped below the 85% (12.65 volt) threshold.

Next, ECU:

> Check that the isolation blocks that fasten the ECU are intact. Very common that they separate and should be re-adhered or replaced.

> Make certain the ECU case ground is clean, treated (DeOxit), and tight. Be careful not to make a connection with your wrench to the nearby Positive Battery Terminal!

> Groom the connectors lying on top of the ECU off to the side so the seat is not pressing on the ECU through those connectors.

Fuse Block and tail connectors:

> The connectors that have been dragged into the tool tray can easily be serviced (cleaned, treated, tightened) and tucked back out of the way.

> Open the Fuse Block lid and treat (DeOxit) all of the fuse connections. Carefully inspect the green 30 amp Fuse #3 (Charging/Regulator) for signs of excessive heat (melting/deformed case or burnt blades without "blowing the fuse"). Any signs of heat should lead to certainty that the Regulator case has an additonal ground strap directly to the engine timing chest.

> By prying the fuse block up out of its isolation blocks you can inspect, tighten, and treat the hidden spade connectors that feed the Fuel/Ignition and ECU relays.

gallery_328_223_160743.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

docc, the more post I read from you (and others here...) the more concerned I am becoming about what I might find when I get around to having a really good look at my Le Mans. :(

Thanks to you and everyone else here for all the good advice and solid tips. Far better to read about those sort of things in advance and go looking for them than to discover them far from home on the way to a weekend rally that one has been looking forward to for months. :bier:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember who posted about them here; but picking up a pair of the Odyssey L bracket terminal extensions for my battery terminals were definitely one of the best additions to my bike.

I find it extremely crowded around the battery area on my V11,just trying to reattach the cables to the battery was a major pita,the terminal extensions solved a lot of grief.

Ps edited to add that the recommendations to relocate the battery tray mounting to underneath the frame brackets,is well worth doing. Each bike is different,my battery tray required a little bit of filing on the mounting tabs for clearance. With the battery tray mounted underneath,it only adds a small amount of extra clearance around the battery,but that area is crowded,every little bit helps.fwiw ymmv

 

Edited by 80CX100
additional info added
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, audiomick said:

docc, the more post I read from you (and others here...) the more concerned I am becoming about what I might find when I get around to having a really good look at my Le Mans. :(

Thanks to you and everyone else here for all the good advice and solid tips. Far better to read about those sort of things in advance and go looking for them than to discover them far from home on the way to a weekend rally that one has been looking forward to for months. :bier:

Took the words right out of my mouth...this place is golden. When you have a 20+ year old bike you need everything going in your favor. The combined knowledge and wisdom here goes a long way in helping to acheive that. Thank you all for taking the time to help.

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Makes me think there should be an "Under the Seat Maintenance Checklist " to compliment the other two checklists . . .

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, docc said:

Under the Seat Maintenance Checklist

there is a pretty nice summary of the function of each relay (by docc last Summer I think) in the long relay thread that can be included.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/28/2023 at 8:21 PM, red lion said:

I think the relays were taped to keep them dry. I was out on my 1100 sport and it started to rain lightly. The #4 relay got wet, the tach stopped, then the light got dim, then the bike died and I had to have towed home. After drying #4 with a hair dryer the bike started up and ran fine. I won't ride that bike if it looks like rain. I wonder if I sprayed the relays with cage deoxit if that would solve the problem and I'd be safe to ride.

I rode (stock relays) in monsoon, heavy rain weather systems we seem to have more an more in Texas, and never once noticed an issue.

I thought, and I may be wrong, the relays are pretty well protected from water underneath the seat?

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/28/2023 at 6:36 AM, activpop said:

 why these relays are taped up. Anybody have some thoughts?

I've been looking into the subjects of relay, and received a recommendation for a Hella relay for the V11 models. One of the plus points was the low profile of the relay in question. I haven't actually looked at it yet myself, but apparently there is not much room between the seat and the stuff under the seat.

Could it be possible that the relays were taped in instead of being mounted to gain a bit of clearance?

 

I don't consider that to be an elegant solution, but I could imagine someone doing that who was in a hurry and not inclined to figure out a "proper" solution. :huh2:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, audiomick said:

I've been looking into the subjects of relay, and received a recommendation for a Hella relay for the V11 models. One of the plus points was the low profile of the relay in question. I haven't actually looked at it yet myself, but apparently there is not much room between the seat and the stuff under the seat.

Could it be possible that the relays were taped in instead of being mounted to gain a bit of clearance?

 

I don't consider that to be an elegant solution, but I could imagine someone doing that who was in a hurry and not inclined to figure out a "proper" solution. :huh2:

That is good thinking and very possible. I have seen others dismount the relays for clearance. Also, I have sen the bottom of the seat pan "relieved" with a rotary tool (i.e.: Dremel®), and even seen the entire pan material cut away above the relays exposing only the foam material.

It is evident when inspecting under the seat when there is seat pan contact with the relays. There are very distinct signs of abrasion and "dusting", dulling, or chafing where there has been contact. Good method to observe the corners and edges of your relays for this and take action to create clearance.

(Added to the Underseat Maintenance Checklist :luigi: )

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...