bzane Posted June 9 Posted June 9 A data point... For the past several thousand miles, after an exhaust/PC3, I haven't had much 2700-3100rpm problems, until yesterday. 1. Bike came out of shop (for something unrelated), where they noticed the hose stubs for the throttle body vacuum weren't plugged, so they plugged them each with a ball bearing. 2. Costco (great premium gas) line was long, so I bought gas (premium) at Indian reservation on ride. 3. Shortly (5 miles) after getting gas, stopped at store about 10 minutes, for a water. About a mile after that, my V11 Lemans sputtered, backfired, popped, stalled on a moderate hill. So, one of the three above was the trigger. Or none, or all. 1
Pressureangle Posted June 9 Posted June 9 7 minutes ago, bzane said: A data point... For the past several thousand miles, after an exhaust/PC3, I haven't had much 2700-3100rpm problems, until yesterday. 1. Bike came out of shop (for something unrelated), where they noticed the hose stubs for the throttle body vacuum weren't plugged, so they plugged them each with a ball bearing. 2. Costco (great premium gas) line was long, so I bought gas (premium) at Indian reservation on ride. 3. Shortly (5 miles) after getting gas, stopped at store about 10 minutes, for a water. About a mile after that, my V11 Lemans sputtered, backfired, popped, stalled on a moderate hill. So, one of the three above was the trigger. Or none, or all. Stop for water, get water.
docc Posted June 10 Posted June 10 1 hour ago, bzane said: 1. Bike came out of shop (for something unrelated), where they noticed the hose stubs for the throttle body vacuum weren't plugged, so they plugged them each with a ball bearing. 2. Costco (great premium gas) line was long, so I bought gas (premium) at Indian reservation on ride. 3. Shortly (5 miles) after getting gas, stopped at store about 10 minutes, for a water. About a mile after that, my V11 Lemans sputtered, backfired, popped, stalled on a moderate hill. So, one of the three above was the trigger. Or none, or all. Recent shop work is always an issue. A "satisfactory state of affairs" might have been disturbed (Waddington Effect). The "something unrelated" may have disturbed "something unrelated." What was the work done by the shop? What with the vacuum taps accepting "rubber" ( I use silicone) caps, I am interested in the "ball bearing" method . . . 1
bzane Posted June 10 Posted June 10 The unrelated work was replacement of the "differential" (ouch) and then another set of rear wheel bearings. When I first noticed the short tubes on the throttle bodies, I thought they looked sort of kludgy, especially since they were open. Silicone caps on the nipples make more sense. Ball bearing method was literally a ball bearing smaller than the inner diameter of the tube being pushed in far enough to block the tubes. The ball bearing size is, you guessed it, the bearings out of the blown rear bearing races. I'll google for silicone nipple caps. Might be a big response. 1
docc Posted June 10 Posted June 10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JJ7QY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Lucky Phil Posted June 10 Posted June 10 5 hours ago, bzane said: The unrelated work was replacement of the "differential" (ouch) and then another set of rear wheel bearings. When I first noticed the short tubes on the throttle bodies, I thought they looked sort of kludgy, especially since they were open. Silicone caps on the nipples make more sense. Ball bearing method was literally a ball bearing smaller than the inner diameter of the tube being pushed in far enough to block the tubes. The ball bearing size is, you guessed it, the bearings out of the blown rear bearing races. I'll google for silicone nipple caps. Might be a big response. What makes even more sense is to remove the inlet manifold nipples and replace them with blanking screws. Store the nipples with your balancer. I mean how often do you do a TB balance? Certainly not enough to warrant carting them around permanently and messing about with rubber caps which are prone to degrading and leaking. Phil 1
GuzziMoto Posted June 12 Posted June 12 (edited) I agree with Phil. But another option, a third option, is to connect the two nipples with a proper size hose. Some people seem to think that connecting them with a hose helps. I don't think that is true. But for sure connecting the two nipples stops the air leak that would occur if the nipples were open. Side note, an easy test would be to open the nipples back up and see if it runs better that way. Clearly it should not run better like that, but you never know. And since blocking them off is one of the three things that changed when it started running less well, putting it back would be an easy way to eliminate that as the source of your running issues. Edited June 12 by GuzziMoto 1
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