Gearbox cover. Now: idle issues

[Drahchir]

So the spring(gu04238300) failed.

I managed to get home!

 I have read all the posts and understand the reason why it fails.

I’ve got the new spring. Actually bought 2, so can go ahead and replace it.

Forgive my lack of knowledge, when I removed the gearbox cover it was metal to metal. It came off really easy and has never leaked! No gasket and no gasket sealer.

I read that LOCTITE 518 sealer has been used and therefore creates a seal. Also filing down the shaft to 15mm sorts the issue. So do I put it back on metal to metal or use a sealer which would make it more difficult to remove the next time?

Why is there not a gasket?

Also where the gear shift lever spline goes through the gear box cover does that have to be removed to get to the surclip underneath? 
I’ve bought a new seal for where it passes through the gearbox cover!

 

 Hope that makes sense to anyone reading this!

I’m doing it myself so I can learn more about my V11 Le Mans rather than taking it to a dealer. I’ve downloaded the photos which have been previously posted, so am doing my homework.

If this is just rambling please ignore! If it makes sense to anyone reading this post then any advice would be appreciated!!

I’m only a humble stonemason!! Not a mechanic. And finally,, I want to bleed the clutch. Again I have read and seen the pictures posted, is it really that difficult to access? If anyone has a picture/pictures of the precise location that would help me greatly!

My kindest regards 

Drachir.

 

 

[gstallons]

The Loctite 518 will be a good choice . make suer the mating surfaces are perfectly clean with Brake-Kleen or similar product when you reassemble. 

[Drahchir]

Thanks.I still can’t get my head around ,why know gasket? 
That’s what is bothering me! As I said to remove the cover next time using a gasket sealer would be more of a ball ache! Thus creating a bond. I know it’s not a strong bond but still.

 Understand the principles of the reasoning for using a gasket sealer filling up any slight discrepancy’s. So why use a gasket on the rocker covers,sump or anything else. When the gearbox cover has know requirement for a gasket? Which of what I’ve read Guzzi doesn’t fit from factory?

I am just being inquisitive. Apparently knowledge is power!!!! Alas not according to my customers who always seem to know so much more than me 🤣🤬🤬🤬

 

 

 

[Drahchir]

I’m just asking the question by the way.😃

[Lucky Phil]

3 hours ago, Drahchir said:

Thanks.I still can’t get my head around ,why know gasket? 
That’s what is bothering me! As I said to remove the cover next time using a gasket sealer would be more of a ball ache! Thus creating a bond. I know it’s not a strong bond but still.

 Understand the principles of the reasoning for using a gasket sealer filling up any slight discrepancy’s. So why use a gasket on the rocker covers,sump or anything else. When the gearbox cover has know requirement for a gasket? Which of what I’ve read Guzzi doesn’t fit from factory?

I am just being inquisitive. Apparently knowledge is power!!!! Alas not according to my customers who always seem to know so much more than me 🤣🤬🤬🤬

 

 

 

Because it's modern engineering. Very few engines these days use gaskets because sealants do a better job. Metal to metal with sealants means no gasket compression over time, no gasket failures and less parts to assemble and manufacturers save money. The Guzzi engine is a transition engine between gasket and no gasket engines. Ducati twins haven't used crankcase half gaskets for over 30 years. Removing the gearbox cover is no problem as there is a built in leverage point to pry it off. 

It's an engineering evolution. BTW the original Guzzi BB rocker cover gasket is a PITA and fails regularly. Use a later metal core gasket. Same for the front cover gasket.

[Drahchir]

Many thanks 👍🏻

[gstallons]

Also , to go along w/Phil about the metal valve cover gasket , James Mariner told me anytime you use a gasket between the head/valve cover you stop / slow down the heat transfer from the head to the valve cover. 

[Drahchir]

Surely that must be a very minimal amount?

[gstallons]

Mmmmm. Yeah but w/heat transfer every amount matters.

[Drahchir]

Unfortunately I’ve now developed an idling problem.

I’ve changed air pressure sensor, new air filter, oil temperature sensor, lambda sensor,waiting for oil pressure sensor. 

I have to leave the fast idle open slightly to get the bike idling at 1100rpm. The v11 Le Mans 03 runs fine no lack of power maybe a slight splutter at 3000rpm. I have looked through all the posts on idling issues. What I have noticed is the right hand side spark plug is black and oily where as the left (as you sit on the bike) looks fine. So after reading through previous posts would it be worth taking the TPS out and replacing?

I’m in unknown territory when fuel injection is involved! Seems like a dark art to me 🤔 I will check the manifold covers are properly sealed in the morning as I saw from a previous post!!

 For any advice!

[Drahchir]

The valve clearances are fine.I also added moreys injection cleaner.

I’ve only added this once.

Again any advice is appreciated before I have to go down the dealer route!👍🏻

[docc]

Dark Art dragged into the light  . . .    --->

 

[audiomick]

1 hour ago, Drahchir said:

... would it be worth taking the TPS out and replacing?

It is easy to check if it is good or not. That is described in the first post in the "decent tune-up" thread that docc linked to.

Interpreting the results of your check is also easy: either the resistance through the TPS changes continuously and smoothly as you turn it, or it is broken and needs replacing.

 

PS: have you already done some research into using GuzziDiag? If not, do so. It is quite easy to use, and can show you, among many other useful things, a graph that shows what the TPS is doing. Quite apart from your current issues, look into it. It is worth the effort.

Edited May 17 by audiomick

[Lucky Phil]

12 hours ago, Drahchir said:

Unfortunately I’ve now developed an idling problem.

I’ve changed air pressure sensor, new air filter, oil temperature sensor, lambda sensor,waiting for oil pressure sensor. 

I have to leave the fast idle open slightly to get the bike idling at 1100rpm. The v11 Le Mans 03 runs fine no lack of power maybe a slight splutter at 3000rpm. I have looked through all the posts on idling issues. What I have noticed is the right hand side spark plug is black and oily where as the left (as you sit on the bike) looks fine. So after reading through previous posts would it be worth taking the TPS out and replacing?

I’m in unknown territory when fuel injection is involved! Seems like a dark art to me 🤔 I will check the manifold covers are properly sealed in the morning as I saw from a previous post!!

 For any advice!

Unfortunately not knowing precisely what you have done tuning wise is an issue. The sensors you have replaced is a good idea but mainly as a precaution related to old age of components. Highly unlikely it's affecting the idle. You can of course just adjust the idle screw on the LH throttle body until it idles fine without the fast idle lever input as a Q&D solution and if it rides and carburates fine and fuel economy is ok then Bobs your mothers brother. A full balance and TPS adjustment is the way to go though and don't forget to remove the air bleed screws and clean them including their seats in the TB. Count the number of turns to fully seat them then remove, clean and reinstall as they were before as a starting point.

Phil

Edited May 18 by Lucky Phil

[Pressureangle]

On 5/17/2025 at 8:42 AM, Drahchir said:

Unfortunately I’ve now developed an idling problem.

I’ve changed air pressure sensor, new air filter, oil temperature sensor, lambda sensor,waiting for oil pressure sensor. 

I have to leave the fast idle open slightly to get the bike idling at 1100rpm. The v11 Le Mans 03 runs fine no lack of power maybe a slight splutter at 3000rpm. I have looked through all the posts on idling issues. What I have noticed is the right hand side spark plug is black and oily where as the left (as you sit on the bike) looks fine. So after reading through previous posts would it be worth taking the TPS out and replacing?

I’m in unknown territory when fuel injection is involved! Seems like a dark art to me 🤔 I will check the manifold covers are properly sealed in the morning as I saw from a previous post!!

 For any advice!

A black wet plug usually has 2 main root causes- either there is a mechanical problem bringing oil into the combustion chamber or more likely, a weak ignition system. The first thing I'd check is the spark plug cap. The cap should be about 5k ohms, I've had old ones fail and new ones junk. If the resistor opens you may have intermittent and/or weak spark, or even spark tracking down the plastic outside the plug core.