Had a breakdown today. Caught on camera. Any thoughts folks?

[Chuck]

Quote

Out of interest, is it possible that tge loose negative battery terminal was a factor in the breakdown?

A bad ground kills them..failing memory says something about reference voltage.

[pete roper]

Yes. The loose terminal clamp should well cause the battery discharge but if you’ve escaped without reg/rec damage you are very lucky.

[Molly]

1 hour ago, pete roper said:

Yes. The loose terminal clamp should well cause the battery discharge but if you’ve escaped without reg/rec damage you are very lucky.

Bearing in mind I've never tested a rectifier before, I watched a YT example and both my yellow wires returned very close readings. Good sign? Thank you, Pete. 

[docc]

2 hours ago, Molly said:

Thanks for all the guidance, Pete. I have it on my bench. Connectors look ok. Watched a couple of YouTube videos to see how to test it but can't translate the examples I saw to mine. Out of interest, is it possible that tge loose negative battery terminal was a factor in the breakdown? Can't see any burned bits on the stator. 

 

For completeness, look carefully at where the two yellow wires are (supposed to be) attached to the windings . . .

[docc]

Also, related just to the stator wiring: when the cover is off, we should always inspect those vulnerable yellow wires and consider a fresh "zip-tie" which is the sole strain relief on this design. Be very careful with the fiber "card" this attaches to, as it also gets very brittle. I learned that black zip-ties are more durable than the lucent and best quality is worth the few extra quid (or bucks, or lire).

[LowRyter]

On 5/25/2025 at 11:38 AM, gstallons said:

This is not just for you but for everyone : any charging system is not meant to charge a completely discharged battery. Recharge the battery before working on a bad charging system. 

to me the tell tale was riding the bike.  If it had enough power to get started, you'd think there'd be enough electrical  energy to run the ignition, despite a weak battery.  If the thing dies while you riding, the first thing I'd guess is the charging system, of course the battery could have shorted out or lost  a cell or two, but if the battery is recharging on the bench, then it's likely the ignition system.   I think there's a place in Denver that sells Ducati regulators for $75.

Just my guess, since I don't claim to be a mechanic. 

Edited May 26 by LowRyter

[gstallons]

Listen , you have no idea how much "electricity" a vehicle consumes during a vehicle's operation. It can run out of battery very quickly. 

[docc]

22 minutes ago, gstallons said:

Listen , you have no idea how much "electricity" a vehicle consumes during a vehicle's operation. It can run out of battery very quickly. 

Truth. Especially for our V11 charging system, in my experience.

Expecting our charging system to address an AGM (specifically the Odyssey PC545) when it is (well) below the 85% charging threshold (12.65v) is like expecting your date to be happy with you out dancing if you neglected to make her happy before going out . . .

[Pressureangle]

My 'Sport did exactly that twice, upon which I installed an LED voltmeter to discover that the voltage (upon recharging the battery to full) was very weak, ~13.8v, and got worse with heat and distance. The short story is the connections of the yellow leads between the stator and regulator (under the headlamp on a 1100 Sport) were fried, causing high resistance. This connection is under the tank alongside the frame. I eliminated the bullet connectors and voltage went straight back up to ~14.5v and has stayed there now for a few seasons.

[Molly]

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience. 

I don't have a definitive update but since the rectifier and battery seemed to have survived, I cleaned and tightened every connection, replaced the melted plastic blob that used to be a 30A fuse, and she started OK. I'll go for a ride after work but leave the 'rescue' equipment in the van should the Mrs need to come get me. 

I like the idea of a voltmeter, mentioned above. 

TT is now underway here. Practice week. Weather's taken a turn for the worse (as per) but it'll still be a great fortnight. 

[Grant]

11 hours ago, LowRyter said:

to me the tell tale was riding the bike.  If it had enough power to get started, you'd think there'd be enough electrical  energy to run the ignition, despite a weak battery.  If the thing dies while you riding, the first thing I'd guess is the charging system, of course the battery could have shorted out or lost  a cell or two, but if the battery is recharging on the bench, then it's likely the ignition system.   I think there's a place in Denver that sells Ducati regulators for $75.

Just my guess, since I don't claim to be a mechanic. 

I just finished going through having my bike quit on me 3 times during a 15 mile ride.  Symptoms were the high beam indicator was stuck on and the headlight died.  

Opening the headlight shell showed the connector for the headlight melted a bit.  A new headlight bulb and universal connector and things were fixed (less than $30 fix).  The internals on the universal connector were different than stock Guzzi and my low beam switch setup is now a high beam but it works.  I have a pretty blue light turned on for regular riding.

 

[Molly]

Have to remind myself that the breakdown was due to my not regularly (if at all) checking the tightness of the battery terminal connections. It wasn't the bike's fault. 

My V11 just went over the 30,000 km mark. Low mileage but it's twenty-four years old. In the two years I've had it I've probably only done 1500 km but until the other day it hasn't let me down. 

Thanks again guys. 

[MartyNZ]

2 hours ago, Molly said:

... replaced the melted plastic blob that used to be a 30A fuse...

You need to move the wiring from that 30A socket to a new and better socket, such as a Maxi Fuse. The original socket is not capable of enduring continuous high current. Contact resistance in the original fuse holder will melt the next 30A fuse. There are many posts about the 30-amp fuse on this site.

[gstallons]

And inspect thr wiring at the connectors. If the wiring looks burnt , it will no longer "work". Cut back until you find fresh wiring.

[docc]

3 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

You need to move the wiring from that 30A socket to a new and better socket, such as a Maxi Fuse. The original socket is not capable of enduring continuous high current. Contact resistance in the original fuse holder will melt the next 30A fuse. There are many posts about the 30-amp fuse on this site.

Oooooh, yes . . . .