docc Posted June 8 Posted June 8 Factory equipped Nero (and Rosso) Corsa = common twin plate clutch/ steel flywheel, yes? Aluminum flywheels (with single plate clutch) = 2001 Rosso Corsa, 2002 Scura and Tenni, IIRC . . .
Scud Posted June 8 Posted June 8 Yes Docc, my understanding is the same as yours. That's why I was surprised to find my Nero had been fitted with a single plate clutch. I really need to look in there to see if it was a new RAM unit or perhaps a take-off from one of the three models that had it from factory. 2
pete roper Posted June 8 Author Posted June 8 (edited) For those wondering about the three separate clutch bosses I dug out my pice comparing the three. From left to right below we have the early six speed single plate boss. The second generation six speed boss used with the twin plater in the CARC series bikes and finally the standard, deep spline, five speed hub. As you can see as well as the difference in spline depth there are also differences in the overall boss length that would need to be accommodated when grinding one of the others to suit the six speed single plater. Edited June 8 by pete roper 1 2
Guzzijens Posted June 8 Posted June 8 4 hours ago, docc said: Factory equipped Nero (and Rosso) Corsa = common twin plate clutch/ steel flywheel, yes? Aluminum flywheels (with single plate clutch) = 2001 Rosso Corsa, 2002 Scura and Tenni, IIRC . . . And Rosso Mandello... 2
Paradiso Posted June 8 Posted June 8 6 hours ago, Scud said: 8 hours ago, Lucky Phil said: A 5 speed RAM kit to fit a 6 speed twin plate clutch is definitively??????? When someone can fill in the last part of the puzzle or indicate where I'm wrong in the first parts then we can make a difinitive post on it and save it in the "how to" section docc? Phil Expand I have not done a 5 speed kit to fit the 6 speed. But I recall the guys at MG Cycle saying it would work, because they thought the only difference was the transmission input spline when they compared the 5 and 6 speed kits. This is worth verifying. That's why I asked the question. My current understanding is that the 5 speed Ram clutch kit should work as a replacement for the original alloy flywheel clutch in the Tenni if you use the original clutch hub, and the clutch pushrod 'cup' from the original clutch (or 'turn down' the end of the original clutch pushrod, as suggested by Lucky Phil). If he was writing about fitting a 5 speed Ram kit to a V11, Baldini seemed to confirm that the orginal clutch pushrod 'cup' is interchangeable with the one supplied with a new Ram 5 speed clutch kit. I think some of the confusion is because posters have said that the Ram replacement is fine without specifying whether it was the 6 speed, now unavailable kit, or the 5 speed kit that they were using. Pete should be able to confirm (or contradict) my conclusions with the current job his mate is doing. 2
Scud Posted June 8 Posted June 8 (edited) Here is a link to the thread where we discussed this in some depth almost 10 years ago. Deep in there, you will find a photo where I put three clutch options side-by-side (OEM dual, OEM single, and new RAM single 6-speed). The only option I did not have was a new RAM single 5-speed kit. Edited June 8 by Scud 1 2
JGP Posted June 9 Posted June 9 (edited) To get back to the nuts and bolts of this....I am debating whether to pull just motor or, motor and trans. I would be interested to know if there a way to remove the clutch cylinder from the rear of the trans. I have tried a couple of things but it appears to be reluctant to exit through the slave cylinder opening. I would like to look at the pushrod and seals before I dive into engine removal. Edited June 9 by JGP Improved photo
docc Posted June 9 Posted June 9 14 minutes ago, JGP said: To get back to the nuts and bolts of this....I am debating whether to pull just motor or, motor and trans. I would be interested to know if there a way to remove the clutch cylinder from the rear of the trans. I have tried a couple of things but it appears to be reluctant to exit through the slave cylinder opening. I would like to look at the pushrod and seals before I dive into engine removal. I need to sort out photo upload, its too big and if I make an alias, which is smaller does not work.
JGP Posted June 9 Posted June 9 10 minutes ago, docc said: I used a on-line service that shrinks jpeg files. Seemed to work ok.
docc Posted June 9 Posted June 9 35 minutes ago, JGP said: I used a on-line service that shrinks jpeg files. Seemed to work ok. Yeah . . . my, my . . .
docc Posted June 9 Posted June 9 13 minutes ago, JGP said: I improved it to 1 MB. Any thoughts on removing the clutch piston? I am not sure what you mean by "clutch piston" . . .
JGP Posted June 9 Posted June 9 04-08-6100 Clutch Control Cylinder. It is activated by the slave cylinder and activates the clutch control rod 01 08 57 30
Scud Posted June 9 Posted June 9 (edited) if you want to remove a piston that is actuated by hydraulics - like a brake caliper or clutch secondary cylinder - you can use compressed air. I'd suggest wrapping the entire unit tightly in a shop rag, then you can close the bleeder port and blast a little compressed air into the input port. That should pop the piston out - and into the shop rag to prevent damage. And if you do find out what O-ring is needed to repair the clutch slave (aka secondary) it would be great service to this community. I think the O-ring is the only part that would be needed for a "rebuild." Edited June 9 by Scud
pete roper Posted June 9 Author Posted June 9 3 hours ago, JGP said: 04-08-6100 Clutch Control Cylinder. It is activated by the slave cylinder and activates the clutch control rod 01 08 57 30 Yup, otherwise known as the outer thrust body. You should be able to extract it and the bearing and inner body, with a magnet on a stick. 1
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