gstallons Posted June 9 Posted June 9 IF you are doing any work to this clutch slave cylinder you do not use any petroleum products to clean , rebuild, parts washer or spray on/around this component. When you go back together with things you can use a brake assembly fluid but no petroleum products . 2
JGP Posted June 9 Posted June 9 Thanks Pete. I did try a shop magnet for retrieving lost nuts and bolts, but it's not enough to free it. If you have had success with magnets, I will try a another couple of magnets I have from the kitchen and see how that goes. 1
JGP Posted June 9 Posted June 9 I tried another magnet. No dice. I tried to spin it by hand, as you can get a bit of a grip on the end of it, it will not turn by hand. If I can't turn it by hand, I doubt a magnet will work, at least not a magnet that I have access to. I can always get it from the other side, by tapping the clutch rod back toward the transmission, but I was hoping to be able to extract it from the slave side without splitting the motor from the transmission. Open to any and all ideas.
Pressureangle Posted June 9 Posted June 9 On 6/6/2025 at 12:15 PM, Paradiso said: The 'Bard of Bugendore'. 😁 Well he has to top 'Rogered in the *** with a rusty star picket' to be the 'Baron of Bungendore' 2
Pressureangle Posted June 9 Posted June 9 (edited) 2 hours ago, JGP said: I tried another magnet. No dice. I tried to spin it by hand, as you can get a bit of a grip on the end of it, it will not turn by hand. If I can't turn it by hand, I doubt a magnet will work, at least not a magnet that I have access to. I can always get it from the other side, by tapping the clutch rod back toward the transmission, but I was hoping to be able to extract it from the slave side without splitting the motor from the transmission. Open to any and all ideas. How much sticks out? How about spark plug boot pliers, or similar? https://www.magnetics.com/products/spark-plug-boot-pliers Edited June 9 by Pressureangle 1
JGP Posted June 9 Posted June 9 30 minutes ago, Pressureangle said: How much sticks out? How about spark plug boot pliers, or similar? https://www.magnetics.com/products/spark-plug-boot-pliers Great idea. I have never seen those before. 1
docc Posted June 9 Posted June 9 16 hours ago, docc said: I am not sure what you mean by "clutch piston" . . . Ah, okay, I reckon this is it. I can see that if it is seized in its bore, then "no clutch" action. Perhaps you could give it a "rap" to free it up? Unless that just drives it deeper into the bore . . . 2
JGP Posted June 9 Posted June 9 2 hours ago, JGP said: Great idea. I have never seen those before. I finally got this out with a small set of pliers. Everything seems ok. Some light scoring on the rod and dis-coloration on the clutch end. Gear oil. Nothing catastrophic. 3
JGP Posted June 9 Posted June 9 I am thinking with the rod out, I should be able to disconnect what needs to be disconnected, unbolt the transmission and drop the motor straight down without worrying about the rod interfering. If I am missing something, please chime-in.
docc Posted June 9 Posted June 9 41 minutes ago, JGP said: I am thinking with the rod out, I should be able to disconnect what needs to be disconnected, unbolt the transmission and drop the motor straight down without worrying about the rod interfering. If I am missing something, please chime-in. Your plan is to remove the gearbox? In this state, the gearox would just come off without any worries about the pushrod. The actual clutch assembly remains inside the flywheel "basket" attached to the back of the motor (crankshaft). It will likely help to loosen the front subframe bolts to the motor and lift the rear of the frame a bit ("crabbing the spineframe") . . . 1
audiomick Posted June 9 Posted June 9 Quite off topic, but I do rather like the workbench behind the bike in that picture. 2
JGP Posted June 9 Posted June 9 1 hour ago, docc said: Your plan is to remove the gearbox? In this state, the gearox would just come off without any worries about the pushrod. The actual clutch assembly remains inside the flywheel "basket" attached to the back of the motor (crankshaft). It will likely help to loosen the front subframe bolts to the motor and lift the rear of the frame a bit ("crabbing the spineframe") . . . My preference would be to leave the gearbox on the bike and just drop the motor. Saves me juggling the gearbox and the motor and I am thinking the motor should just drop down on the motorcycle jack and pull out. But I have been wrong before...
docc Posted June 9 Posted June 9 4 minutes ago, JGP said: My preference would be to leave the gearbox on the bike and just drop the motor. Saves me juggling the gearbox and the motor and I am thinking the motor should just drop down on the motorcycle jack and pull out. But I have been wrong before... My thinking would be, 1) there is a lot (a lot) less to disconnect from the gearbox, 2) the gearbox weighs vastly less than the motor, 3) with the gearbox out of the way, the clutch is accessible and easily disassembled as the motor acts as a sort of support jig (especially for reassembly). But I have been wrong before . . . 2
JGP Posted June 9 Posted June 9 11 minutes ago, audiomick said: Quite off topic, but I do rather like the workbench behind the bike in that picture. If you can carry it out by yourself, it's yours. I will even empty it for you, so it's lighter. It was wired for British power. It was on a farm property when I bought it. You only see half of it, there is a second level that's held up by some big steel brackets. No idea where it came from or, what is was used for. 3
audiomick Posted June 10 Posted June 10 (edited) 30 minutes ago, JGP said: If you can carry it out by yourself,... I could do that, I'm sure. Getting it to Germany would be slightly more difficult, I think. And then finding room for it in my garage. I think you'll just have to live with it being in your workshop. PS: I reckon @docc is on the right track re "motor and gearbox out" vs. "just pull the gearbox off". Edited June 10 by audiomick 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now