Input rear drive leaking

[pete roper]

Ooooh! Much nicer tool than mine for the ‘Ring Nut’! Will you make one for me mister? Please! Pretty please!

As for holding the pinion shaft? From memory I had a buggered Uni-joint/driveshaft from my Convert which had the same splineform that I stuck in the vice, bunged the pinion in and cranked it up with a FB spanner.

Thats my memory. Certainly the CARC bikes use the same splineform and size so finding a buggered shaft and getting one of the yokes would work. Actually I’ve got a horrible, damaged, shaft from a Cali 1400 on the verandah, (Who doesn’t?) I could chop that in two and that would make two holding tools. One’s yours if you want Phil. Anybody else? First come first served. One of the yokes will need dressing up with a file due to the crash the bike it came from burring the end of the front yoke as the whole motive unit moved forward in the frame, (Rubber mounted engine in the 1400 and this bike had its front end taken off in an accident and came to a ‘Sudden Halt!)

[nielsv11]

Thanks for all the replies, just to be sure I ordered the seal already. I think indeed cleaning it and then driving a little bit to be sure is a good plan! I will start extracting the rear drive this weekend and hopefully find the problem. I was hoping that the pinion would not have to be extracted as I don't have the tool. On my V50 it was all a bit easier  I will keep you all posted on the progress 

[Lucky Phil]

14 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

Since I needed to drill out the piece of the nut driven down into a  keyway to lock it, I kept going and stitch drilled the nut so I could split it. Tightening a new nut meant that I had to get a better way, so I made wood clamping blocks to grip the pinion in a vice. I should have made the clamps first. 

Yea I was thinking of a wooden clamp in the vice for the pinion drive. I'll set it up in the mill and use a 4mm end mill to cut out the staking on the old nut and replace it with a newy.

Phil  

[MartyNZ]

On 6/5/2025 at 9:51 PM, pete roper said:

Ooooh! Much nicer tool than mine for the ‘Ring Nut’! Will you make one for me mister? Please! Pretty please!

Well since the probability of me needing it again is lower than a walrus's belly button, maybe I should send it to you. Can you PM your address?

[Lucky Phil]

On 6/5/2025 at 7:51 PM, pete roper said:

Ooooh! Much nicer tool than mine for the ‘Ring Nut’! Will you make one for me mister? Please! Pretty please!

As for holding the pinion shaft? From memory I had a buggered Uni-joint/driveshaft from my Convert which had the same splineform that I stuck in the vice, bunged the pinion in and cranked it up with a FB spanner.

Thats my memory. Certainly the CARC bikes use the same splineform and size so finding a buggered shaft and getting one of the yokes would work. Actually I’ve got a horrible, damaged, shaft from a Cali 1400 on the verandah, (Who doesn’t?) I could chop that in two and that would make two holding tools. One’s yours if you want Phil. Anybody else? First come first served. One of the yokes will need dressing up with a file due to the crash the bike it came from burring the end of the front yoke as the whole motive unit moved forward in the frame, (Rubber mounted engine in the 1400 and this bike had its front end taken off in an accident and came to a ‘Sudden Halt!)

Thanks Pete I'll take that. Pete did you see the option of using the original ram clutch actuating button in the new clutch a few members have done mentioned in that thread. May be easier than machining the rod.

Phil

Edited June 6 by Lucky Phil

[pete roper]

He’s already turned down the rod and says it works just fine!

[nielsv11]

yesterday I managed to extract the rear drive. Sadly it is really needed to extract the nut and the special nut to replace both the seal and the O-ring. Luckly I found someone with the right tools, so tonight we will try to replace them. I also checked the play on the components, the universal joint had no play in there the same goes for the gears. When looking at the splines it also still looked good. I am still wondering what could have caused this fail as the breather was also working fine. Maybe that the ruber/plastic was just old and brittle? or that some debris got near the axis. Could it also have something to do with the fact that I was driving in the mountains instead of normally driving roads in the Netherlands, I would not think so as it only happened on day 3 (it was quite a bit warmer that day 28 degrees)?

[Lucky Phil]

On 6/7/2025 at 8:42 AM, pete roper said:

He’s already turned down the rod and says it works just fine!

Ok good confirmation. I'll try and put together a simple post to dot point all the options and maybe docc can save it somewhere for reference.

Phil

[docc]

21 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Ok good confirmation. I'll try and put together a simple post to dot point all the options and maybe docc can save it somewhere for reference.

Phil

Since it appears that only the RAM single plate replacement clutch assembly is available as the 5speed option, it appears we are down to two scenarios:

Installing the RAM 5speed replacement on:

1) a V11 6speeder with single plate clutch/ aluminum (crack prone) flywheel [Scura, Tenni, and Rosso Mandello]

2) a V11 6speeder with twin plate clutch/ steel flywheel