Spinning on the starter - wont kick over

[orangem2]

1 hour ago, bentombed said:

yes with a probe in the injector and earthed to the battery i do see 12.4 volts when i turn the bike on. 

so you ARE getting power to the injectors... should be same with coils... that is good!!

next step is figuring out WHY the ECU is not getting triggered to produce spark when turning over.

The next step in figuring out/if WHY the crank sensor is not triggering the ECU. The sensor is EXTREMELY sensitive to the gap. Have you removed the newly installed and make sure it is not damaged?

If the crank sensor has not been damaged, remove the thinnest shim and re-install.... bet it starts LOL

[bentombed]

5 minutes ago, orangem2 said:

so you ARE getting power to the injectors... should be same with coils... that is good!!

next step is figuring out WHY the ECU is not getting triggered to produce spark when turning over.

The next step in figuring out/if WHY the crank sensor is not triggering the ECU. The sensor is EXTREMELY sensitive to the gap. Have you removed the newly installed and make sure it is not damaged?

If the crank sensor has not been damaged, remove the thinnest shim and re-install.... bet it starts LOL

I so do hope so - thank you so much for the help! 

[orangem2]

12 minutes ago, bentombed said:

I so do hope so - thank you so much for the help! 

are you looking now?

 

[bentombed]

2 minutes ago, orangem2 said:

are you looking now?

 

its 9pm here and i think if i try to start the bike now my kids will wake up and my wife would kill me  

[orangem2]

1 minute ago, bentombed said:

its 9pm here and i think if i try to start the bike now my kids will wake up and my wife would kill me  

its 0553 here... just started work... LOL

look at the sensor... just make sure the sensor is not damaged in anyway.

[orangem2]

11 hours ago, orangem2 said:

its 0553 here... just started work... LOL

look at the sensor... just make sure the sensor is not damaged in anyway.

Dying to know if it's the bad sensor/ new sensor gap causing your issues

[bentombed]

9 hours ago, orangem2 said:

Dying to know if it's the bad sensor/ new sensor gap causing your issues

sadly it seems to be something else -  i measured the senso gap with a tool i devised, set the gap correctly. then 
plugged everything back in, put the tank on switched it on -  hit start and .........  same deal as before. chugging away on the starter... i set the gap with two shims,  I tried with one shim, no good, tried again with no shim at all - still no good.  
seems like the ecu is not sending the signal to spark? 

[bentombed]

https://imgur.com/a/7mr9v5T

 

video of my sadness

[orangem2]

On 11/26/2025 at 12:38 AM, bentombed said:

wires everywhere - its a cliff jefferies ecu if that makes any difference. 

 

Check the timing sensor plug wires for continuity from the sensor plug to the ECU... check if the wires at the ECU have been spliced.  You mentioned earlier the wires at the ECU have been messed with at some point with it being a Cliff Jefferies ECU... possibly a bad splice at the ECU for the timing sensor wiring.

Edited Tuesday at 10:02 PM by orangem2

[Lucky Phil]

3 hours ago, orangem2 said:

Check the timing sensor plug wires for continuity from the sensor plug to the ECU... check if the wires at the ECU have been spliced.  You mentioned earlier the wires at the ECU have been messed with at some point with it being a Cliff Jefferies ECU... possibly a bad splice at the ECU for the timing sensor wiring.

I missed that bit. I have a new unused CJ ECU if you end up needing one.

Phil

[bentombed]

17 hours ago, orangem2 said:

Check the timing sensor plug wires for continuity from the sensor plug to the ECU... check if the wires at the ECU have been spliced.  You mentioned earlier the wires at the ECU have been messed with at some point with it being a Cliff Jefferies ECU... possibly a bad splice at the ECU for the timing sensor wiring.

i can do that - the wires from the injector back to the loom have been spliced i think they are sound but it wont hurt to check.  
there was power to the sensor and the sensor had continuity between the plugs,  I will try different combinations of the spacers i have too.   does the resistance of the sensor make much difference?  when i tested that the new ones i have tested way lower than the original, the 0g sensor tested at 685 ohm, the new ones tested at 640 and 636.

 

 

[bentombed]

13 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

I missed that bit. I have a new unused CJ ECU if you end up needing one.

Phil

oohh - where abouts are you?- I'll pm you. 
 I have been in touch with Cliff, he doesn't think it's the ECU,  i'll post it down to him if i can confirm its not the sensor or something else i have missed.

[orangem2]

2 hours ago, bentombed said:

i can do that - the wires from the injector back to the loom have been spliced i think they are sound but it wont hurt to check.  
there was power to the sensor and the sensor had continuity between the plugs,  I will try different combinations of the spacers i have too.   does the resistance of the sensor make much difference?  when i tested that the new ones i have tested way lower than the original, the 0g sensor tested at 685 ohm, the new ones tested at 640 and 636.

 

 

check the resistance of the timing sensor from the ECU plug using pins 7 and 12 to check the the wiring THROUGH the sensor... that will check for continuity 

[audiomick]

4 hours ago, bentombed said:

...  I will try different combinations of the spacers i have too. ...

Be a bit careful with that. The sensor I have is 30mm long, and the hole is only 29mm deep. You don't want to shave off the end... 

[gstallons]

Hmmmm