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Posts posted by nuevototem
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Hi to all! thanks 4 your help! finally the problem was the regulator... i change it and all ok now! thanks and best regards!
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Hello! anyone have a picture of were is the main ground? Thanks and best regards!
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15 hours ago, sp838 said:
If you change the r/r, get a MOSFET instead of diode based unit. They run cooler and are more durable. Rick's Motorsport Electrics sells one for single phase alternators. If you also have the good idea of upgrading to LiFePO4 battery, which will save you about ten pounds compared to the stock boat anchor, they make one that is optimized for charging those batteries.
thanks for the info... i check the web page: https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com but cant find the correct r/r... do u know the right model for the v11? thanks!
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1 hour ago, Kiwi_Roy said:
If you think about replacing the regulator try to find one directly connected so that it doesn't rely on the headlight relay.
The Ducati Energia is a series regulator, some owners change to a shunt type but thats your call.
ok! do u have a link to the ducati regulator? thanks!
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On 5/6/2019 at 4:25 PM, docc said:
The relay in that circuit is #2, second from the front .
Also, since that bulb lights by grounding, check / clean / secure your main ground from the battery to the back of the gearbox on the right. If your electrical system is finding alternate ground paths, bad things can happen!
Hello, were is that "secure your main ground from the battery to the back of the gearbox on the right" cant find it... any photo about it? thanks!
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2 hours ago, Kiwi_Roy said:
Before you scrap the regulator do you have an additional ground to it? all the current has to pass back through the ground connections. The small black ground wire is not adequate, any Voltage lost there is Voltage lost to the battery. A short wire or piece of Aluminium strap (similar metals) from the regulator case to a timing cover screw has solved many a problem, make sure you apply some grease.
As Docc says the 30 Amp fuse should show no sign of discolouration, dark colouring is a sign of overheating due to resistance.
Hello I think that the regulator is the problem... anyway will check the ground and all... THANKS!
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On 5/6/2019 at 4:25 PM, docc said:
The relay in that circuit is #2, second from the front .
Also, since that bulb lights by grounding, check / clean / secure your main ground from the battery to the back of the gearbox on the right. If your electrical system is finding alternate ground paths, bad things can happen!
Thanks DOCC for the info! I remove one by one the relays and the idiot lights still on...
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hello I am thinking the same about the regulator... neutral light is not affected... only oil, petrol and battery is permanently turn on... when i return home i will move side by side the steering and check if the lights turn on / off....
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ok thanks! will check that for sure!
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the 30A fuse looks a little melted (like is fat) but is working ok... and contacts looks ok (will chekc again later) I test with other 30A fuse and same problem.... Thanks!!!
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good idea... will check that!
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Hello all! Fist I LOVE my v11... jaja today when I remove the key the oil dashboard light keep on... I test removing one by one the fuses and it goes off when I remove the 30A fuse. Everything else works ok.... anyone have experience with this problem?
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Hi to all!
Any have experience with the MISTRAL V-TWIN BOOST MG-VTB12? How it works?
More info:
https://www.mistralspecialparts.it/en/product/v-twin-boost/
Best regards!
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Zorro,
Please can you share the link of the RAM low inertia clutch that you installed?
THANKs and best regards,
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Hi to all, I find that my CO TRIMM was at -31. I change it to 0 and I the motorcycle is much better. No pops when I cut the trottle. Accelerate and have better idle. Anyone use more CO TRIMM?
Best regards.
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Hi docc, THX! for your time making this very cool how-to. I have a few q:1) At step (2) "Leave the right side idle stop backed out." Then you never mention to change the position again... do we leave it this way?2) At step (4) "Turn the upward facing Throttle Body air bypass screws in all the way and back them out one full turn." Manual states 1/2 turn... whats the difference to do it 1 full turn?3) At step (5) you write: "Let it idle and adjust the 2.5mm left idle stop set screw (easy to get to) to put the idle where you and your V11 are happy". Some people and the workshop manual state that the one we should not change form original factory position is the left and only change the right one. Why you prefer the left one?4) Casper's TPS Breakout Harness link is break... do you have the product Nº or other datail to find it out?Again thanks for this forum and all your help!!!best regards,
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Hi, I will adjust like you said, but I think 0.030" (inch?) is too little... It's 0,7 mm... Is correct?
Best regards,
Nicolas.-
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Hi to all! I have the kit with the update gearbox cover. Shifting is ok, but normally I have a neutral between 3 and 4 gear.... Before I install the kit I didn't have that problem... Anyone have an idea how to solve it? Thx!
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Hi to all!
I have the same problem like Rinho1... Is it solved? How?
Best regards!
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Hi to all,
I have the same question, I have a PCIII installed and I what to remove it and modify the ECU.
Best regards to all!
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Hi, mistery solved, the push rod plate base in the clutch was not centered. Thx!
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Hi to all,
With GuzziDiag is possible to check if TPS is at 150 mV? If yes how to do it?
best regards!
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starting when turning steering to the right
in Technical Topics
Posted
No the same exp but check the sensor to the right stand.... best regards!