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  1. Today
  2. Well, "I don't want a pickle " . . . Edit: Just to make this right, musically:
  3. This just happened, so I may need to update garage signage. The V11 is still here/for sale and even so, I occasionally experience seller's regret
  4. Yesterday
  5. Great trip reporting! The B&B looks like the kind of place you could rest up for a few days. Nice. Yeah, BC, 103 today, come back in January . . .
  6. AJ -- in pic, below -- talked me into doing this only two weeks after the SSR XX: Moto Guzzi Tour of Corsica & Sardinia A moto-touring veteran of various companies, AJ did a Balkan event last year in order to get a "serious" demo of the V100. Ended up so impressed by the V85 instead, he bought one! His, mine, and Stave Nicholas had three Guardia d'Onores at the mutton and fried cheese curds run. Two of those will be at SSR XX. Bill
  7. It would be interesting to see FLIR images of the fuses and relays after coming in from a ride . . .
  8. I completely forgot this happened to mySport five years ago! In that case, @TomH, be certain your inner rear wheel spacer measures correctly and use high quality bearings (I settled on KOYO) . . .
  9. If you hit the rear brake and there is no brakes there, the first thing I would do right then and there is pump the brake pedal to see if the brakes come back. Having to pump the brakes can happen because the brake pads get pushed away from the disk. That can happen for a few reasons, including what Phil mentioned of having issues with the wheel bearings. If the wheel has enough wobble in it from loose bearings the disk can push the pads away from it when it wobbles. It does not take a massive amount of wobble to do that. It only has to push the pads a tiny amount away from the disk. Anything that causes the pads to be pushed away from the disk will cause the brakes to not be there when you next push on the brake pedal. But if that is the issue successive pumping of the brake pedal will normally restore brake function. Other things can also cause brake issues, like the hole between the master cylinder (the part pushing the brake pedal acts on) and the reservoir. That hole must be open when the brake pedal is in its normal position. Improperly adjusting the brake pedal can cause that hole to not be open when the brake pedal is not being pushed. Or you could have a small piece of debris clogging that hole, as mentioned. You could also have issues inside the master cylinder. There is a small spring inside it that pushes the piston back when you release the brake. If that spring can't or won't push the piston back when you release the brakes you will experience brake issues.
  10. I looked it up . It looks like it is a neat toy ! I bought one a pretty long time ago and it was pretty expensive but it is neat to have to find poor connections or things "staying on" for battery drain.
  11. You want brakes not 99.9999% of the time , you want brakes 100% of the time . Use DOT 4 fluid straight from a new bottle . How many pumps did it take to get a good pedal ? I know counting is the last thing on your mind . Just wondering. Have you ever flushed / bled the rear brake system ?
  12. The Flir was a gift from a buddy that is a sales rep but it has come in handy. I am not electrically minded. A good question..... I'll check it out in three next day or so and report back. and I'll probably do the same check on occasion going forward.... it may help preempt problems. I figure once resistance starts affecting any contacts, it will probably be a cycle of more resistance = more heat = more resistance and so on.
  13. Somebody is hi-tech ! What do you get after start-up and the alternator is recharging the battery . I've got a Flir , just never thought of looking at this .
  14. Not sure if I've posted this before. Danish band Choir of young believers from 15 years ago or so. Theme song from a very good Danish Police series "The Bridge" which is worth a viewing itself. The lead singer died not so long ago, real shame.
  15. After reading docc’s concerns about leaving the 30 amp fuse in place while charging, I checked mine. Attached is a thermal image of my fuse set after 24 hours on a battery tender. No heat to worry about
  16. I'd be looking at your rear wheel bearings first thing just to be safe. Don't bother with squatting down and trying to twist it, grab a 3 foot length of timber and put some tape on it to protect the paint and stick it between the swingarm and tyre sidewall and lever the wheel and see if it moves. The situation is when the bearings are shot badly enough cornering forces mean the wheel twists a little which pushes the brake pads back into the calliper enough to lose the brake. Then some straight riding and a few pumps on the pedal brings them back onto the disk. If you've picked up some rattly vibes in the footpegs lately thats also a good sign of bad rear wheel bearings. Phil
  17. You might also want to check that the master cylinder is working correctly and does not have any small pieces of debris contaminating the very small holes. One time my 04 V11 had a case where it started with no brake one time, like you mention and within a couple miles and uses of the rear brake had the brake on slightly all the time, overheating the pads and disc. If I had not noticed I think the disc would have turned red. The pads had started to break down from heat. The issue was a piece of debris in the small orfice where the 90 degree fitting comes out of the master cylinder. Looked like a tiny piece of black seal material. The brake had worked perfectly since new up to that time. I rebuilt the master cylinder, caliper and new pads and worked like new since.
  18. Time to service/ lube the lever pivot and bleed the hydraulics. The caliper has to be removed and rotated to position the bleeder upward and above the master cylinder. Take time to clean the pistons, rotate them with a piston tool, and press them back into the seals. Polish and lube (silicone grease only!) the pad pin and spring.
  19. Greetings again. My 2000 v11 surprised me a couple days ago with a rear brake… “miss” followed a few minutes later by a functional braking. How? Stepped down on the lever as per usual, lever gave no resistance, bike didn’t slow. No rear brakes. Later on, it worked. i know I have some learning to do, and could be doing something wrong, but this one I sat with when it went bad. I pulled into a gas station, got off and pushed the lever by hand. Nothing at all, I rolled the bike with the pedal on. I started home carefully and after a couple stoplights it worked again. can anyone explain this?
  20. Last week
  21. I installed some TPS sensors on two Dodge vehicles in the last two weeks and my scanner had a "relearn" on the TPS after I installed them . Bolt it up and relearn and it was finished . You didn't have to adjust anything .
  22. No not really. Apart from the reduction in frictional wear from repeated use the threads in the threaded hole see the same physical stresses whether a stud or a bolt in this application. When you torque up a cylinder stud on a Guzzi or Ducati or many other engines as an example you can feel that long stud twisting under the torque load just like a long bolt. That torque is transmitted into the threaded hole just like a bolt but with without the thread frictional loss. The frictional loss is carried by the nut threads in this instance. Phil
  23. Just know not to muck with The Sacred Screw!
  24. Thankfully the CARC bikes do not need to have the TPS fiddled with manually...all done electronically via Guzzidiag. SOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier than the V11's...
  25. The information I have I had from talking to old mechanics . The stud pulls straight up on the threads whereas the screw twists on the threads .
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