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I had a minor vacuum leak at one of the taps that gave me a fit before finding it. Similar fits when the rubber caps had cracked and loosened on the taps. For a time, I used shortened bolts to block the vacuum access, but one time the threads pulled out and I went back to the taps with silicone caps.

That's the plan!

No get rid of it all. Phil

Fine to cap the intake taps and see if it changes your issue. I finally sourced silicone caps that hold up much better to the heat cycling and fuel exposure. With the tank off, you can "T" the tank vent and overflow together to route an exit behind the rear of the sump. I loosely zip-tie mine to the fitting for the oil evap return line. At some point, my funky, old tub-of-a-Sport started leaving a puddle on the lift, so I added a spooge catcher. I've never seen anyone devalue a V11 that was without the evap mess. When I pulled mine off the early Sport with dual canisters in the underseat tool tray, I found there was twenty (20!) feet of 1/2" US fuel line and the mess weighed five pounds. Of course, I saved it in the cabinet full of Sport stuff.

My Coppa has developed a miss at even throttle or sometimes a miss at slow accelerating from a stop. Never under more spirited acceleration. I suspect a possible intake air leak from the evap system which is still on the bike. You can see the cracks in tubing terminating at the throttle bodies, but that is only a few inches of tubing. Who knows what is going on under the tank. I will remove the tank this off-season to remove all of that apparatus. To determine if it is truly an air leak, can I just pull the two lines at the TB and plug the inlets to see if that is truly the cause? Will I have any problems leaving those two lines dangling there? I can plug them too. That cannister in front of the rear wheel needs to go. Will I devalue the bike any by not having it perfectly stock?

I went and rebuilt my throttle bodies they were leaking gas pretty good. Phil mentioned when he rebuilt his one of them was missing the rubber seal altogether. So, I thought I would dig into mine. The leak was just the injector needing some cleaning, but I was in there already, so I replaced the bushings. When ordering the bushings its clear they're made to run at some low rpm they have a running class fit. Don't think that they're going very tight at all. I guess it helps with the throttle return having the throttle impeded might for no more posts.

Eight weeks out. Changed engine and gearbox oil, Decent Tune-up, and addressed some niggles. Pondering matters of tires . . . [edit/46 minutes later: "pondering" turned into a fresh set of Pirelli Angel GT on the way . . . ]

The lead designer of the original Suzuki Katana was Hans Muth of BMW design fame.

Taking a closer look at the Workshop Manual, the degrees opening of the throttle plate at idle is 3,6º +/- 0,5º (3.1º - 4.1º). The corresponding mV I have written in the margin for this range is 5.10 - 5.38 mV. Pretty sure I got this from Ed Milch very early on. The Workshop Manual states this setting should yield an idle of 1050 +/-50 rpm and that, if it doesn't, to set the TPS to 150mV +/- 15. First of all, that is a ridiculously wide range for the TPS baseline (135 - 165 mV). I ran mySport at the top end of that range back in the early days and it does not run well (thinking, at the time, "I'll just add more fuel by turning up the TPS.") Certainly, the best results indexing the mechanical throttle position to the mapping is to baseline as close to 157mV as possible and balance the throttle bodies at "some" rpm. Accounting for my worn throttle shafts (and bores and plates), I used this (rather intimate) method to hold the throttle plate closed after pressing the bottom of shaft toward the other throttle body, along the axis of the throttle connection rod. Out for a shakedown ride after the throttle body balancing, she seems quite happy with the outcome . . . Idle preference is another matter. Once all tuning parameters are addressed (including setting the CO Fuel Trim, which cannot be overlooked), put your idle wherever you and your V11 are happiest. In these high ambient temperatures (90-95ºF/ 32-35ºC), and owing to my well worn flywheel teeth and gearbox input hub teeth, I prefer my idle toward the 1500 rpm mark; much less rattle at idle, more stable if stuck in traffic, and more oil for cooling, methinks. [Just a quick reminder that the factory tachometers, especially the early white-face Vague-liar are known to read up to 300-500 rpm high. In the event the tach is used to set the idle at 1000 rpm (1050 minus 50), the poor thing is trying to stay alive idling at 500-700 rpm. ]

296km today up in the mountains. IPA time for sure. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

The recurring take-away regarding "manufacturers' recommendations" : Due to the increasingly stringent approval regulations . . . This is certainly the case with reduced zinc and phosphorous (ZDDP) considered desirable for our flat tappet engines. The matter of PAO and ester base oils being obscured has much to do with what oil manufacturers can get by with (cheaper, easier to source base oils) while still marketing, and charging for, a "synthetic" product. A couple things I learned from well informed other sources about the desirability of pure (group 4 group 5) is vastly improved shear resistance (stable viscosity over the service life) and near-zero evaporative losses from heat (something to consider with air cooled motors with funky crankcase ventilation systems).

Just feeling a bit funky.

I've got a few minutes spare right now, so I dug up one of the sources that I read on the subject. It is a tech bulletin from Moto Guzzi that someone made available for a post in the German Forum. Here is what DeepL made of the post. NB: the V11 motor is not specifically referred to. Since that motor is, however, as far as I understand it effectively the same as the Breva 1100 motor, I take the specs for the Breva motor to apply equally well to the V11. Since @pete roper referred to 10W60 further up, I gather I am not too far wrong with that. Anyway.. To clear up any misunderstandings about the oils recommended by the manufacturer, here is a technical note from Moto Guzzi: Source:WWW.SERVICEMOTOGUZZI.COM ( Dealer Portal) TECHNICAL BULLETIN NO. 010-2006 28-07-2006 Model: Breva 750/850/1100, Nevada 750, Griso 850/1100, Norge 1200 Subject: Recommended oil types Dear authorised dealer, Due to the increasingly stringent approval regulations, our motorbikes use oil types with highly developed technical properties. We are sure that you already comply with the relevant information in our operating and maintenance instructions for the respective motorbikes, so please allow us to list below once again the oil grades that lead to the best performance in our motorbikes. We would also like to remind you that the use of other types of oil can lead to malfunctions in the engine/drive unit SERIES 750 (Breva and Nevada): Engine oil: RACING 4T 10W-60 as alternative 15W-50 Drive oil: ROTRA TRUCK GEAR 85 W -140 Transmission oil: ROTRA MP/S 80 W -90 SERIES 850-1100-1200 (Breva Griso and Norge):Engine oil: RACING 4T 10W-60 The use of this type of oil is highly recommended for this engine, as it guarantees optimum pressure values even at high engine temperatures. Drive oil: ROTRA MP 80 W -90 Transmission oil: ROTRA MP/S 85 W -90 SERIES 1100 California - mechanical valve lifters Engine oil: RACING 4T 10W-60 as alternative 20W-50 Drive oil: ROTRA MP 80 W -90 Transmission oil: ROTRA MP 80 W -90 SERIES 1100 California - hydraulic valve lifters Engine oil: RACING 4T 5W-40 Mandatory for correct operation of the hydraulic valve lifters Drive oil: ROTRA MP 80 W -90 Transmission oil: ROTRA MP 80 W -90 At this point we would like to remind you that the above information refers to Agip brand products. Yours sincerely, Moto Guzzi Quality and Customer Satisfaction

I don't see anything there that resembles our (four) V11 Eagle "tags" that come so easily unglued . . . @sp838's 3D prints from some time ago (not sure if they are still available):

https://www.aliexpress.us/w/wholesale-Decals-motorcycle-Eagle-sticker-for-Moto-guzzi.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.search.0

Well, it turned out the one I bought from Amazon is the wrong size, so I looked at the one you mentioned. It, too, is the wrong size.

Let's all pony up to fact that what we are being sold as "AI" is neither artificial nor intelligent. It is a function of search engines being populated by algorithms designed by software engineers that are working for various entities that designate the outcome parameters.

I just let AI do some work for me docc. First search "is Mobil1 a group 4 oil" Yes it is. Then I looked at the dates of the info. Did the same search with 2025 at the front and "no it's now a group 3 base oil" Looks like you were right AND Mobil have turned into the usual modern day corporate scoundrels. Bit like 50% of the packaged food these days in the supermarket. The shelf price is the same as usual but they gradually reduce the qty of the product. Cadbury chocolate bars used to be 200gms and now quietly they have been reduced to 180gms. Pringles moved their factory to New Zealand and the size of their chips shrunk. Corporate bastards. Phil

I think that is correct !

Are the three 1100 Sport-i relays cube (square top) "mini" relays while the five V11 relays are 1/2 cube (rectangular top) "micro-ISO" ?

I haven't reviewed the relays on the 2000 v11 yet, but my '97 1100 Sport had Tyco 3 relays, and as reputation demanded failed in the high heat of Daytona traffic. Fine again on the ride home, so obviously marginal in normal operation. I grabbed a handful of oem Omron at the junkyard, they were oem in many Jeep products and low mile wrecks are (were) abundant.

What did you find w/this test ?

Spoke to tech support at Mobil 1 this morning. He couldn't tell me the type, said it is proprietary info. But he said the V twin 20w50 they make is specifically for air cooled four strokes. It has a much higher percentage of zinc in it than their 15w50, which has much less zinc and is considered an auto oil. Their 5w40 racing motorcycle oil is formulated for Japanese water cooled engines, which maintain a more constant temp. So for now, I'll stick with the V-twin Mobil 1 and do some more digging into Redline, Liqui Moly and some of the others. In the end, I agree with Pete's point. Put some oil in it. Simple, but true.

I'm going to paraphrase and take licence with Pete's notion- "It's all Bulls**t". The only thing I'll add here is that the larger the "w" spread, the more quickly the oil breaks down. Temperature causes polymerization and cooling reverses. Not that this is any consideration in our case, 'light usage.' Straight weight oil is often recommended for stationary equipment where service intervals are long.

Castrol GTX was popular with the street racers back in the '70s here and I became a devoted Castrol fan. Decades later, a respected auto mechanic told me he did not care for their products as they discolored the engine internals to a brown/bronze coloration. I had just thought that's what color engines were inside! So, I moved on to Mobil1, then Lucas in mySport. After learning about base oils (thanks, Richard Widman) and what "synthetic" means (or doesn't) in this country I selected RedLine and never looked back. s said, we all have our preferences and mySport has always had some oil in it, typically with 5,000 mile changes.