LaGrasta

thank you @audiomick

I just searched this topic because I keep seeing more and more people adding the MISTRAL V-TWIN BOOST to their V85tt. Since Mistral is a company I respect, I thought maybe, just maybe. I looked, they do make one for our V11s, but just as you mentioned on this thread, it's tom-foolery. I do need to do something to adjust my off-idle lunge. It's not safe, especially when I'm in a turn and gas it!

yup, my AliExpress pump is working perfectly. Most pump sources are buying these very same pumps, and upselling them.

R/R

More confirmation, now with a few hundred miles. A dedicated line direct to the battery has solved this. Finally!

Hmmm, now that I think about this, @Scud did I meet you by chance a few months ago at C&C and just hadn't realized it was you from the V11 forum?

@Scud I seem to have finally worked out all the bugs in my V11, sounds like you have too. I'm now retired, so even more time to ride. Let's plan something together. We could meet in San Clemente for Cars & Coffee as it's in the middle.

I just returned from about 25 miles. All seems well, voltage going up and down dependent on rpm, just as it should. The V11 power never grows old. After riding my other bikes(V7, GL500, ZG1000) the last couple of months while this was being worked on, this V11 seems like a beast, so much more fun to twist the throttle. I breached the ton a few times today!

yes @docc, this is the case. However, I was going to disconnect the red/green altogether as I've now run a direct wire from the positive battery to the RR. However, when I did this, no electricity at the key. So I expect the red/green powers something else essential. I did look at the schematic, but my eyes went goofy navigating the lines and colors.

Yes, I swapped to a CB, per Docc. As for less vs more resistance. Less is now what the OEM line has due to the added resistance the new line. Make sense? the OEM red/green wire also powers …fuel relay?

Well it's working, but maybe only a band-aid, not actually corrected. @Tomchri I ran a direct wire from the RR to the battery, took it for a ride and it now has higher voltage at higher rpm, as it should. Thank you. (The RR I bought came with a long power wire just for this reason, but wanting to keep it OEM, I had originally chose not to use it.) The problem now is this all started when my 30a fuse started to melt at the base (not blowing). I replaced it with a CB, but that hasn't helped other than allowing me to push the button rather than replacing a melted fuse. As it is now I'm concerned that there is still a short in that main harness. A friend tells me the additional wire will help add resistance and may in effect make up for the fault. To truly repair this, I believe I'll need to remove the tank and replace this power line. For now, I'll see how this fares.

Tomchri Thanks for the reminder, let me reconsider this.

The AC results are correct, reaching 80v. (I was stupid enough)

I've tested the bike at numerous rpm, always charging about 13.4 regardless.

It's been some time since I've visited the forum. Frankly, I needed time for my moral to recover after too many attempts to repair my V11 charging problem. After replacing the battery, rectifier, and stator, it still doesn't charge above 13.4. Is there a special rectifier if I'm using a lithium battery?