Tinknocker
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Posts posted by Tinknocker
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I've had a couple sets of Sportmax's on my Buell Ulysses and like them alot. Not terribly expensive and wear about 5-6k miles, handle about as well worn as new ones. I love how they grip, the bike handles well and the Dunlop's are a great match for it. Recently installed Bridgestone Battlax S21's on my '02 LeMans, so far so good although I don't have enough time on them for an honest report. I put a Bridgestone Battlax BT 23 on the rear of the Buell and they are about the same as the Dunlop Sportmax's, which is what's on the front currently. The Sportmax's and BT 23's are what I can honestly recommend. Btw, both bikes run 180/55 zr 17 and 120/70 zr 17's.
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My '02 LM feels "lighter" and more flickable when I put my chest on the tank pad and hugged up against it while weighting the pegs, my butt is barely touching the seat. I'm guessing 60% on tank and 40% on pegs. Almost no weight on clipons. A dramatic handling dynamic difference vs riding lazy (weight on seat and clipons). Could it be why MG put a pad on top of tank? Idk, but when I wanna play in the twisties it works for me. YMMV
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Hard starting is frequently a cue the valves need adjusted. The fuel injection system on these bikes is pretty good IMHO, but, they need to be set up properly to function well. As mentioned, the "Decent tune-up" thread is an excellent procedure to get the F.I. system calibrated. Also, it's recommended to replace the relays with quality Omron's, a search on here will guide you to the right ones. You just don't know what the P.O.'s did to the thing, such as turning the white knob on left side to adjust idle speed...it's actually the throttle synch adjuster and turning it without a synch tool will mess things up for sure.
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That last pic of the right t.b. doesn't look completely closed to me
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9 minutes ago, docc said:
Dang, bud, you missed saying "Spread-Bore" . . now, that's just fun to say with "Double-Pumper!"
The entire phrase always reminds me of a girl I dated in college . . .
I figured that would lead straight to the gutter, especially with squirters thrown in there 🤣
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3 hours ago, po18guy said:
The numbers were right, but the decimal wrong. My bad. Will re-read the tuneup thread. We Luddites like big old Holley four barrels. Now that I can understand.
Oh yeah! Double pumpers with dual feeds, power valves and squirters, pump cams and jets! That's what I'm taking about, lol. Gotta love them quadrajets too! Ahhhh, the good ol days. I miss carburetors 😢
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26 minutes ago, po18guy said:
To do this, it must be getting too much mixture, both fuel and air. That would seem to indicate that the throttle bodies are not where they should be. The R throttle body has that eccentric "choke" cam on it. Make certain that it is not camming the throttle body open. Both vacuum hoses connected and in good shape? Throttle cable properly seated and adjusted? Oh, choke off?
I just un-dusted my '04 a bit. Due to horrible popping back, I commenced to mechanically synch the throttles. I slacked the throttle cable, the choke cable and disconnected the TB cross linkage at the left end. Then backed off both throttle plate idle screws until both plates were closed. Twisted the balance knob on the cross linkage until the linkage would just slip back together with a trace of drag. Set the TPS (throttles closed) at 1.574, but it would not idle. So, back to reading the manual and the tune up thread. Can see why Dellortos are so tempting.
1.574 volts? Something not right there, should be 157 mv, or .157v, with all linkage and idle adjustment screws backed off, including disconnecting the fast idle cable. Go back to doccs "decent tune-up" thread and follow precisely. You don't want the "balance linkage" connected at all when setting tps volts. The F.I. system on the Guzzi's is actually pretty good, imho.
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I agree with docc, verify the throttle bodies are closed. If not, check that cables are seated correctly, including the fast idle one, and you may need to back off the adjuster at throttle grip as there should be a slight amount of slack before the throttles actually open when you twist it. After doing the "decent tune-up", I had to back that adjustment out because it idled at about 3k, seems the PO used it to adjust idle instead of the t.b. screws.
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I like the Permatex red "High Tack Gasket Sealer". Have put gaskets on with no sealer and they leaked. Re-did them with new gaskets and that stuff and no leaks. Hopefully I didn't just jinx myself though as I used it on the LeMans valve cover gaskets after a "decent tune-up". Thanks for the procedure docc, she's running fine as ever now.
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Try zip tying the lever against handgrip overnight, and turn steering to right. It's worked on my KTM's before. Btw, what do you consider a proper bleed?
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On 7/22/2020 at 5:15 PM, docc said:
So, the original Sachs used throughout the V11 range does have a white spring, but not built by White Power/WP (as was fitted to earlier Sport 1100) were fitted to V11 (as far as I know), even though early press materials said that.
I am pretty sure it is the lower (rear) attachment at the swingarm that is most susceptible as that pivot resides just above the rear tire and exposed to the elements.
Ok, thanks docc. I will retain that in the theater of my mind. I mentioned White Power because it was specifically referred to as such in the owners manual.
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Because they stick out more and are lower, I'm thinking they would hit the ground easier with severe lean angles in turns.
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Is this problem with the Sachs White Power shock, and top or bottom? I have an 02 LeMans.
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An analog meter is a better way to check tps sensors. A bad spot will be seen as a needle blip when a faulty sensor is moved through the full sweep. DMM's may or may not show a bad spot with a faulty tps, due to some technical explanation I can't remember 🤔
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6 hours ago, docc said:
45-50 Nm = 33-37 ft-lbs should be fine then?
I do think it would have been fine, if I had not used the loctite. And, yes, 45 ft-lbs seems a plenty for a 10mm bolt. But, that's what the manual said. They really should have used a nut instead of threading into cast aluminum. There's alot of things all manufacturers should have done, but didn't, lol.
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I learned to be cautious using loctite, the hard way. Manual didn't call for it, but I justified the use because it's a Harley V-twin (Buell) and they vibrate fasteners loose, lost a few lower fairing screws because of it. Didn't make it to torque spec of 45 ft-lbs and the threads pulled out of the cast aluminum threaded hole😫. I reckon the loctite "altered" the friction kinda like oil would, and now the torque spec was too much . Had to helicoil it, and, no loctite this time, lol. YMMV
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I'm 51, and 2 hours on the LeMans is enough for me. PO installed 2" risers on mine, extended hydro lines too. While they were a little more comfortable, the bike had electrical malfunctions. Sometimes wouldn't start or crank and might die when at a stop. I figured the wires were stretched as he didn't lengthen them. Brake and clutch reservoirs would rub fairing and he buggered the aluminum mounting bracket so it wouldn't hit the fairing. Took them off and the electrical gremlins pretty much disappeared. And, it handled better too. Even though it was a little more comfortable, I like it stock better, mainly because of the better handling. As others have mentioned, it's a short trip bike for me. I have a Buell Ulysses with luggage and throttle lock for the longer rides. Although, I'm lusting at the new V85tt's 🥴
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2 hours ago, docc said:
I sourced a metal end to crimp to the wire core folded over the side and plug into the coil.
You know, from a real parts store. The dimly lit kind with greasy hardwood floors and a handful of guys that know where little parts are stowed in cardboard boxes on plywood shelves.
Sadly, those parts stores and getting harder and harder to find docc. We have only a couple left here. Used to be several in town. Really miss the ones that are gone 😢. I think I have some leftover 7 & 8mm ends around somewhere in my super organized (not) garage. I assume that's a 7mm spark plug end? Thanks gstallions, I have a couple crimpers too.
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I bought NGK solid core wires with 5K caps. It looks like the coil end is replaceable but haven't had them apart yet. Has anyone attempted replacing the wires to the coils and how did it turn out?
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14 hours ago, gstallons said:
Any plug wire with screw in resistor caps will have solid core wire . If you want to prove it , remove the cap and look into the center of the plug wire . You are going to see copper strands.
Also , there is no need to run a resistor cap on non-solid filament wires .
That makes sense and now feel like I should have known, lol. Thanks
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A Lil update, switched # 2 & 3 relays and seemed to run better. Cleaned paint off tranny case ground and definitely cranks better. Installed Omron relays and seems to run better yet. Still has a little bit of stuttering when cruising at speeds less than 40 mph or so, but certainly better than last couple of weeks. Will update after I do a decent tune-up to include new NGK spark plugs wires w/5k ohm caps and K&N air filter. Are the stock wires solid copper core? As the new ones that I have are. Thanks gents.
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After letting it cool down, I started it up in the garage and seemed to run normal. I didn't take it back out for a ride however. That's a good idea, will do that next time, thanks.
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It ran better after cooling down for 30 minutes or so.
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Verified that it is turned fully open, CCW.
Chin Pad
in Technical Topics
Posted
I wonder how the "Back to black" treatment products would perform on the chin pad?