Steve G. Posted January 1, 2004 Share Posted January 1, 2004 Always one to do as much of my own maintenance as possible, I am a bit puzzled as to the easy way to change fork oil in an upside down fork, with no drain holes in the bottom. Please tell me it's easier than taking each fork off and tipping it upside down, or taking it to the dealer. I've got a late 2001 V11 with the 40mm Marzocchi upside down units. Steve G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted January 1, 2004 Share Posted January 1, 2004 The shop manual (pages 45-48) says to remove the fork tubes and turn them upside down to drain. Yanking the fork tubes out takes 30-60 minutes. They're not that difficult when you have a good stand (I use Pit Bull stands front and rear). It's not something that has to be done that frequently either (once a year or 12000 miles). Assuming you already have the bike on a stand...: Remove front brake calipers letting them hang free Remove front wheel Remove fender mount bolts Turn the fork legs brake mounts around 180 degrees, drop and remove the fender Loosen the allen head pinch bolts on the bars and the triple tree Gently drive a flat blade screwdriver into each pinch area of the triple tree and bars and slide the fork tubes out If you have a model with the street bars like a Ballabio, it's even easier, no bar mounts to slide the fork tubes through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vkerrigan Posted January 8, 2004 Share Posted January 8, 2004 Steve G., Since you will have the forks out and partially apart, it would be an opportune time to change the fork springs (if needed) to a rate to suit your weight and preferences. Al & Lex have posted threads regarding optimum spring rates, etc. A set of RaceTech springs, spacers & washers will be in the $110-120 range. Happy Trails!.........vk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve G. Posted January 9, 2004 Author Share Posted January 9, 2004 Thanks for the thought on that. I have been happy with Progressive on my other 3 bikes that I've changed over, and I am somewhat bigger than the average Italian Ciao, Steve G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Le Man Posted January 9, 2004 Share Posted January 9, 2004 Steve, I just did mine on my 03 Lemans this afternoon. Carl gave you the breakdown just perfectly but I would like to add one thing ( it may be obvious, but just in case) be sure to break free the top caps before you loosen the triple clamps to drop the tubes. These suckers are tight! I doubt if you have anything in your shop capable of holding them unless you loosen the caps while assembled. The job was easy, took about a half hour to pull and drain them. What came out (12k miles) was nasty and ready to be changed. Good Luck Mike IBA#15554 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve G. Posted January 9, 2004 Author Share Posted January 9, 2004 Hi Mike, By top caps, do you mean the 19mm bolts which house [in a manner of speaking] the preload and damping screws? Steve G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mikemason Posted January 9, 2004 Share Posted January 9, 2004 Does anyone know what fork springs to use? According to the people I have talked to they don't have Guzzi springs and want you to send in your set to match. Does someone have a cross reference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Le Man Posted January 9, 2004 Share Posted January 9, 2004 Steve, The 19mm hex which, as you say, house the damping adjusters will turn but do not unscrew. These are attached internally to the spring. The caps I am referring to are the larger (maybe 31mm?) plug that is threaded into the top of the fork tube. (The 19mm damping units are in the center of these). I don't know the torque involved but I needed a six point socket and a long breaker bar to loosen them. It would be a good idea to cover your fuel tank in case something slips. With your bike on a stand of some sort and the weight off the front wheel from here the job is no problem. After I took the wheel and calipers and stuff off the tubes I loosened the pinch bolts and just gave the tube a twist and out it came. Should be easy, (life would be so much better if they provided drains) but get back w/me if you run into anything. I'll be reassembling this afternoon. Mike IBA#15554 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve G. Posted January 10, 2004 Author Share Posted January 10, 2004 Hi Mike, I'm wondering if your fork is slightly different on your '03 Lemans. My '01 V11 does not have a "hex" head on top as such [excepting the brass 19mm bolt I mentioned before] on the top of the fork, but just a flat diameter plate capping the top of the fork. It appears as though the tool of choice [yikes] would be a vise grip spread real wide. I apologise if I'm missing something here. Ciao, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Le Man Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Steve, It sounds as though we have a different set-up. Does the 19mm on the top of yours unscrew? If it does that will do the trick. On mine it turns but does nothing but turn, it doesn't come out. Bottom line is that you need to be able to open the tube so you can get the oil out. Mine is all back together now. I used a good fork oil and put in the .42 litre as instructed and they feel good. I'm leaving on a day ride in an hour or so and will recheck the bolts at the end of the day. Let me know how it works out! (Leave those vise grips alone) Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Brian Robson Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 I have just taken out the fork tubes. The 19mm bolt holding the adjusters were both hand tight from the factory and loosened easily. This allowed the top to come off. The oil was clean and approx 450 mls came out of each leg. I think it will be best to leave them hanging overnight to drain all of the oil. As it was ideal to pump the forks to get out all of the oil, do I presume that the forks need to be pumped again after filling and then left for a few minutes to allow any air to make its way to the top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Le Man Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 Hi Brian, In my case I, like you, left the tubes to drain overnight and then pumped them (not much came out) and then filled and reinstalled the next AM. I expected to have them a little "airy" at first but we had an ok day here yesterday so I just went riding. Felt good right from the first. Good luck guys! Mike IBA#15554 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Brian Robson Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 Danke LeMan, I will put them on today and back riding tomorrow as long as there is no more snow expected Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichMaund Posted January 16, 2004 Share Posted January 16, 2004 This is a case where using the shop manual is very valuable. It's directions are well written and the photos are a big help as well. You can make your own spacers from PVC pipe. I recommend using synthetic suspension fluid as it won't break down as quickly. The directions in the manual tell you how to pump them dry and refill and purge air. Good techniques to use. I made spacers for mine 13mm longer than stock and used 7W fluid vice 10W. Some Dealers recommend 5W, but I am a heavy guy. That made my front end work just right for me. The shop manual is a good investment. Many Dealers sell good copies of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Brian Robson Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 The oil change is very simple and I used 5W Bel Ray fork fluid and used 450 mls each fork leg, just to lessen the air gap a little. There is much better response on the front end, with less chatter at the same settings over local rough roads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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