Jazzamoto
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Posts posted by Jazzamoto
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19 hours ago, footgoose said:
What Scud says. I also have the RAM single, it's an easy 2 finger pull. And I have arthritis in that hand. How does the Cafe feel compared to the 78? Isn't that one a cable?
Yes the '78 Le Mans is cable and feels much lighter than the V11.
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Just now, Jazzamoto said:
Yeah, good idea. Long overdue on bleeding. I got the lever on the 4 setting which the closest in.
Thanks DOCC!
I'll have to pass on the "Spendy" part. Forgot to mention that I've got Dupuytrens in both hands. I'll look in to hand exercises for sure.
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19 hours ago, docc said:
Several things to address, John! Probably can make the pull better . . .
First, bleed the fluid. Also, clean and lubricate the lever pivots. Watch out for the tiny activator ball for the micro-switch when you dis-assemble that mechanism.
I have also found the lever adjustment can be adapted to our finger reach. The "friction zone" is actually pretty narrow and the "pull" might be improved bringing the lever closer in.
Yeah, good idea. Long overdue on bleeding. I got the lever on the 4 setting which the closest in.
Thanks DOCC!
19 hours ago, Scud said:From easy... Flush the clutch fluid and adjust the lever out to give you a bit more leverage.
to spendy... Put in a Ram single plate clutch and lightweight flywheel. The lever effort is way easier than the dual plate.
Then there's the old hand exercise regimen with a squeeze ball or spring thing.
I'll have to pass on the "Spendy" part
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I've always felt that the clutch pull on my Cafe Sport is kind of heavy and as I've advanced in years it's becoming more of a problem (spoiled by my Multistrada I guess). I've done a lot of online searching and haven't found anything applicable. Does anyone have any thoughts on reducing the clutch pull?
Thanks!
John
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Dave,
An absolutely drop dead gorgeous bike! Of course I'm only saying that because mine is identical.
Cheers!
John
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Yeah, but I had brown hair then. Come to think of it I had hair then.
Cheers Dave!
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Isn't that an old MG Magnette two toned sedan across the street? Had one of those in my hippie days in Venice. Abandoned it one morning on Pacific Coast Highway in El Segundo on my way to work. Ran out of starter fluid.
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Misery loves company
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Jeez Louise! It's just the small button in the middle that pops off and exposes the hex hole. I thought the entire thing was a cap. Duh.
I'll just go sit in the corner now.
Thanks guys!
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Yes docc that's it. I've been trying to pry it up without success. Guess I'll have to resort to my Dads' advice for solving problems "Apply yourself!"
Cheers!
John
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Can anyone tell me how to remove the silver cap that covers the top steering head pinch bolt on a 2004 Cafe Sport? I've loosened the top triple clamp bolt as per the service manual but can't remove the cap.
Thanks!
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xroads, check your messages.
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I have been using a PF4C Magnetti-Marelli sourced from Harley-Davidson (Buell) for years and years.
I am given to understand that the output curve differs from the PF3, but it seems rather transparent to my mediocre skills.
It was also inexpensive and locally available.
Wow, looks like the PF4C is not just Buell, but a long list of common Harleys . . .
Here is an Amazon listing FYI ($55.73US) :
https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Electronic-Injection-Throttle-2001-2008/dp/B000GZKRY8
docc, I ordered one of those recently and they're not usable. Note that the attachment screw holes are not slotted hence they can't be adjusted for proper millivolt reading.
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Raceco valve settings = 0.15 intake and 0.20 exhaust
Thanks Stew!
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"we set the valve lash to Raceco specs, and it's never had an idle hiccup again."
So what are the Raceco specs?
Thanks!
John
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I wouldn't still have my V11 Rossa Corsa if I didn't have these mounted: http://motratech.com/Motratech/Welcome.html
I also have the setup from RPM cycles that moved the clip ons up and back.
Frank
I have to agree with Frank. On my ''04 Cafe Sport with high bars the stock foot peg position made no sense. Why raise the bars but keep the pegs in the same place? Pure torture. Go with the Motratechs like I did.
John
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Luhbo, thanks for the numbers. Yes sorry, I left out the K.
Chuck, good idea on the vacuum leak. I'll check it.
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I'm still hunting for the source of my engine "hiccup" problem and thought I'd check the coils since
the hiccups only happen when the engine is hot. Does anyone have the resistance specs for primary and secondary coil circuits? I'm getting 1.3 ohms primary and 3.3 secondary, assuming I'm measuring correctly.
Thanks!
Jazz
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Do take pictures for those of us not brave enough to take one apart!
Dave, almost forgot. Here's the disemboweled TPS. Just don't stare at it too long. You won't be able to sleep.
The photo is so tiny I had to stare at it for a while. Having only loosened the TPS to adjust it how does it work?
Sorry Dave, uploaded the largest high res version from my phone. Don't know it got so small in the process. As to how the TPS works.. I'm still in that primitive state where technology is indistinguishable from magic.
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Do take pictures for those of us not brave enough to take one apart!
Dave, almost forgot. Here's the disemboweled TPS. Just don't stare at it too long. You won't be able to sleep.
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LowRyter - thanks for the pic!
luhbo - The sealant also makes it tough to adjust. I'll skip it.
Thanks all, I think I've got a handle on it now!
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They're cheap...
They are? Where?
https://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c
$82 = cheapish. I've got one on the way. The MG part from Harpers is $302!
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The spring winds it back to the closed throttle position.
Do you have some images of the insides?
Was it dirty or greasy or corroded inside?
docc, it's perfectly clean. One thing I noticed is that the shape of the sensor housing doesn't conform to the circular shape of the throttle body so there's an open gap between the two. Previous owner had filled the gap with ATV gasket sealant. I'll do the same.
Roy, looks like two possible positions to set the spring so I'll put the rotor in place and see which spring position will allow full rotation. Thanks guys!
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Are you supposed to take it apart like that to clean it?
That's what the forums say. Although having seen the insides I can't imagine what would be cleanable. Then again, the forums also say I should be able to clean the terminals on the ignition switch which requires pressing down on three indent tabs for access to the terminals which is a little tough to do if you only have two hands - but that's another issue. At any rate, tomorrow I'll try to put the rotor in the proper place which should help me determine how the spring should be set (there are two possible configurations) and go from there.
Thanks Dave! Hope things are going well In Portlandia.
V11 Cafe Sport heavy clutch pull
in Technical Topics
Posted
That's what I've been trying to find without any success. The stock Brembo Master is 12 mm. There's a company Midwest Mountain Engineering that builds a replacement Brembo master cylinder for KTM's and other enduro bikes which reduces clutch pull 50% But I sent them a pic of my bike and they said their unit wouldn't work. Also I've searched parts catalogs for slave cylinders on other models (Brevas, Griso, etc.) and they all appear to be the same unit.