shiloh
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Posts posted by shiloh
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If you have thread pitch gauges you could check that way.
Might be 10x1.75(10mm xfine)
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Smooth as silk
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All very confusing, why are 2 obd cables required to hook up to the ecu?
The tps thing i get, could probably fashion an adapter myself.
Never mind I understand now these ecu interfaces are only 3 pin.
So why hasnt a stand alone ever been configured for these bikes like icarsoft has done for various vehicles.
Or would that be tooooo easy? Lol
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Got it done, was actually quite simple, one was a tad tight and another loose.
Back to spec and not as rattley sounding.
I think what was confusing me was cylinder orientation, as looking from the front to rear.
Our kawi triples are as sitting on the bike, right side left side.
Cheers
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Didn't mean to offend you,
but watching the intake valve movement is the absolute no brainer way to tell when it is coming up to fire on that cylinder. Non taken, just wanting to be certain, whole new learning curve, or re-learning curve as in my case, two strokes certainly have a lot less going on, thats for sure.
Swoosh and Docc,thanx for sharing the links, very helpful indeed.
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Thanx guys,
I know its not rocket science, I get confused easily, been building 2-strokes for most of my life, and this is the fitst 4 banger I've decided to maintane myself in a very long while
Cheers
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Good posts, I`m also attempting to adjust the clearances.
I found the S ans D marks and painted to make them easier to see.
Q. once a cylinder is set to TDC do I adjust that cylinder or the opposite one?
I ask because the TDC side adjustment screws seems to have no effect while the opposite one(BDC) can be adjusted.
Im going to assume both cylinders valves are closed at this point yet the TDC side valves seem to be under tension making t those screws stiffer to turn than the opposite side.
The manual seems vague other than set to TDC and make adjustments, really dont want to mess this up, probably should have left well enough alone, but the rockers/tappets seems excessively noisy.
Clarification on this would greatly appreciated,
Thanx
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Cool vid, but if our bikes vibrated like that, we`d be little more than a pile of jello in the saddle with-in seconds.
I wonder how long it took the engineers to find the right frequency to prove their product over others, excellent marketing.
Lockers and lock-tite do just fine, and everyone checks their nuts now and then, right.
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I know I cant pass up a bargin, recently I got a new icon jacket for $80 and a pair of $300+ sidi boots for $75.
Just cant seem to have enough, and lord knows cant bring myself to despose of the old worn out kit.
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That last one might be my favorite.
Lol... they're all my favourites
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Took the front wheel off for tire change and bearings.
Gave up on trying to get the tire off after buying a set of motion pro spoons, so took to my mechanic to do the job.
Engine and tranny oil next.
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Man, I always hated being lectured, sheesh
But ya you're right, I should know better.
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Well yesterday for shits and giggles, I went out to shop, -22degC, looked at the guzzi pining for warmer weather, and figured I`d see if the old girl would start, key on, throttle advance maxed, pushed the button and....... varoooom, fired right up with no hesitation at all, and its been a while, probably 2-3 before I tore into the rear end, back in October? maybe.
Luv this bike.
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so where do those bridges fit, my bevel drive didn`t have those.
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Ewe... I was told not to beat on a stepped axle while removing as it could possibly be hanging up on a bearing, which in turn my damage either or.
Meh... I beleave in what ever it takes... carefully that is.
Mine came out and back in with relative ease, though the last couple inches in both directions needed a good spank.
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The steps I believe are where all the various bearing are, that`s why the axle isn`t a smooth pull to remove or re-install, some wiggling required.
The bevel box re and re is pretty easy, but the inner seal could be a pain, having to remove that big needle bearing, unless it`s missing like mine was.
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Finally got the rear end all mounted, new tire and a fresh set if irridium spark plugs.
Fired right up smooth as silk, left it on the service stand and ran it up in second gear, again smooth as silk, no leaks, but unfortunately unless we get a break in the weather, road test may have to wait till spring.
Other than greasing the propeller shaft, was a pretty easy fix. The gear box looks pretty good in satin blk.
Cheers
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Filled the rear box with oil last night and left it sitting on the bench, no leaks so far.
If weather permits and I can get the new tire on, that'l be the acid test, its been cold and rainy up here for the last week. I can do cold, but I'm a little allergic to wet.
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Just got finished putting the swinger back on for a few shots of grease.... sheeesh.
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Pretty easy to pull the swingarm from where you are now if you can't get to the fitting.
yup looks like thats my only recourse, what a stupid maintenance design. Lets tear the bike apart to get to one grease fitting!!
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Yes I had my buddy bike mechanic (specializes in European bikes) do that checking for me as he has all the specialized tools, he gave me the thumbs up, and a bill for $50(some friend
)Now onto the the forward grease fitting, I bought a needle fitting, hopefully I`ll be able to squeeze some grease in that way.
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Do you have to recheck the play and possibly use a different shim or should it be good to go?
I'm afraid to ask what that big bearing costs...
That big bearing is @ $95, total rebuild was under $300USD, A lot cheaper than a new box if you could find one, there @ 3g`s new, stupid `spensive.
Everything went back together and within spec, thank dog, I hate waiting for stuff.
I also replaced the wheel bearings, they`re dirt cheap. Should also mention that there are 2 O-rings that should be replaced as well if you`re ever inclined to rebuild one of these, one on the wheel side and a big one that seals the cover once its locked down with the 8, 8-1.25mm bolts,never though to snap a pic of its location, sorry
was so excited to get this back together.oh, and thanx for the kind words, my pleasure for sure, This is a great forum with lots of knowledge and how too`s, happy to be here.
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I did get a reply back from the PO, he claims the rear end was never dismantled, and according to the service records that he provided, I have no reason to doubt him.
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pic, on reassembly, parts arrived today.
Big needle bearing about half way in, you can see the new inner seal and thrust washer(not bronze by the way)
I used a big thick washer to gentally tap the bearing home, liberally lubed to help
Fully seated
Spacer tube in place
Crown gear big support bearing, axle bearing and big outer seal
cir-clip and inner race on crown shaft
Crown gear in place
Shim, the holes in the shim and cover only line up in one position
8x1.25 bolts torqued to @ 20ftlbs( 25-30Nm) screw down as you would a car tire, criss-cross pattern, being cast alum I would imagine it not to be too robust.
All assembled, nice new satin blk paint job, the oem finish was pouched, flaking and the under laying casting was corroding.
Will be back on the bike as soon as I figure out how to get grease into the front zerk on the shaft, and get my new rear tire(avon av66) mounted.
Cheers
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Speedometer stops at 200 Kmph ca. 120 mph
in Technical Topics
Posted
It's telling you not to drive that fast?