[Maxton rear shock.]

18 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Ok red frame is the supposed less stable one. My bike has a slightly longer Wilbers shock and the forks dropped through the triple clamps 8mm and is ok as far as I'm concerned.

 

Ciao

Many thanks Phil. I only find mine a bit hairy when really pushing on on very bumpy roads.

[Maxton rear shock.]

On 11/26/2021 at 9:26 PM, Lucky Phil said:

Quicker steering, yes, more twitchy depends on what frame your bike has. The long or short frame. An English 2002 bike, not sure. Does it have the additional gearbox support?  

Ciao

I have the short red frame bike. I'm not sure if it has the extra gearbox support tbh.

It was imported from Japan so its not a UK bike.

 

cheers. ta.

 

[Maxton rear shock.]

5 hours ago, Scud said:

I had a hyperpro shock made once and they offered me both dimensions, the Sachs or the Ohlins (which was longer). The Ohlins manuals are available on this site for download, probably have the specs. Matching the length of the Ohlins is a good idea, even on a short frame bike. I had Ohlins on a Greenie I had for a while, it was a big improvement. And I think one of the main reasons to replace the Sachs unit is their tendency to crack one of the mounts.

Does the slightly longer spring make the bike more twitchy and quicker steering? Im not sure I want to sacrifice stability for quicker steering. 

I'll have a look for the ohlins specs on here, thanks..

[Maxton rear shock.]

10 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Maxton are a reputable company so why don't they know the dimensions already? I had a Wilbers custom made for my bike and they knew all the dimensions. I can get the dimensions for you tomorrow as I have a std shock in the workshop. You can only go I think it was 10mm longer or you run into drive shaft fwd universal joint contact with the swingarm tunnel issues.

 

Ciao

That would be great if you can get the dimensions Phil. I was surprised they wanted me to confirm the dimensions seeing as they made the shock for the isle of mann TT bike years ago.

[Maxton rear shock.]

Hello. I'm getting a Maxton NR4 shock made for my short frame v11 to hopefully improve on the ride quality. The original Sachs unit seems really hard and downright pain full over potholes on our crappy UK roads. 

Maxton have asked for confirmation of some measurements first though. 

Does anybody know the dimensions? 

They said the last one they made for the v11 was

Length between centres - 280mm

Top eye size - 22 mm across flats x 12 mm hole. 

Bottom eye size - 22 mm across flats x 12mm hole. 

Also they recommend making the shock a little longer than stock to make the back end sit higher - I think I read somewhere that the ohlins unit was a bit longer. Would this be a good idea to speed up the steering or would it make the bike unstable. ?

Many thanks,

Mark. 

[Bar end weights stuck!!]

23 hours ago, Steve S said:

Remove the clip on tube from the fork clamp then the throttle tube will slide off the other end, best to get some bar ends to fit your renthals 

Good idea - why the he'll didn't I think of that. Doh!

Thanks. 

[Bar end weights stuck!!]

I was going to try and reuse the weights in the new bars if they would fit. Also I need to remove the throttle tube from the original handlebar. 

[Bar end weights stuck!!]

I am trying to remove the clip ons and fit some standard Renthal bars to improve the comfort a bit for my dodgy back, but I cant seem to remove the bar end weights.

I have sprayed loads of WD40 in there and left to soak for a bit - but no matter how much force I put on the allen key screw it wont budge. Nearly snapped the damn thing off. I was holding the bar end with pipe grips with a bit of rubber to stop the damage (didnt really work!). Im guessing the thing is corroded to hell inside the bar as its not been moved for 20 years.

Has anyone got any good tips before i take a hacksaw to it.

 

Many thanks,

Mark.

[Veglia rev counter problems]

Last time I was out on the bike I noticed that the rev counter was reading very low - probably around 1500-2500 lower than the actual revs. 

Weirdly though when I really revved the bike over say 5000 it seemed to read more accurately.

At tick over the needle was barely moving.

Anyone know what is going on please. I was going to start checking connections but not sure where to start.

Many thanks... 

[Rear brake lever]

Hi Luc, 

That looks just the kind of set up I'm after. 

Did you drill the top yoke yourself and what bar clamps did you use? I like the ideal of being a little more upright. I guess you have to replace the throttle cable and clutch line?  

Thanks for your help,

Mark. 

[Rear brake lever]

Hi Luc,

I like what you've done there - but I dont think that will work with my brake pedal as its not the standard one and doesnt have a flat edge to it. 

I think my foot rests will be in roughly the same position as yours though once i spin my rearsets around by 180 deg. Do you have any trouble with them grounding out at all?

Are they much more comfortable?

 

Cheers,

Mark.

 

[Rear brake lever]

Hello all!!

I am in the process of altering the rear sets on my 2001 V11 to gain a little more room in the leg department. But this means the current brake lever i have fitted will be too short.

Does anyone have a standard rear brake lever that they would want to sell me. I will of course cover all postage costs.

I'm in Bath UK.

many thanks,

 

Mark.

[Standard foot pegs and levers.]

Thanks swooshdave - cheap as chips too!!

[Standard foot pegs and levers.]

On 6/5/2019 at 2:40 AM, Scud said:

I might have all that, but will need to check to be sure. I'll be home Saturday. If I do, it's all powdercoated black.

Hi Scud - any luck with finding the levers and foot rests etc?

cheers

Mark.

[Standard foot pegs and levers.]

10 hours ago, docc said:

(Be aware that the early '99-'01 gearshift lever is different from the LongFrame '02+ V11. The early brake lever is ~5/8" shorter, but will still work on the later frames.)

Docc will the later brake and gear shift work on the red short frame - which my bike is??

Cheers,

 

[Standard foot pegs and levers.]

7 hours ago, Scud said:

I might have all that, but will need to check to be sure. I'll be home Saturday. If I do, it's all powdercoated black.

Scud that would be great if you have it all. I can remove the powder coating no problem as my bike is all ally.

I would need the long bolt as well which holds the gear lever in place and the small arm which fits on the gearbox spline.

Let me know how much you have and what you want for it. I'll cover the postage costs.

Cheers 

Mark.

[Standard foot pegs and levers.]

Hi there. 

Has anyone got the standard foot rests, rear brake lever, gear lever and linkages that they want to sell? 

At the moment I have rear sets which are a bit high for me and would like to put it back to the standard set up. 

Ive has a look at doing it with new parts but some of the required bits don’t seem to be available and the prices are ridiculous!!

Also if anyone wants to swap their standard set up for my custom rear sets then I’d be up for that  

im in Bath Somerset Uk  

thanks. 

[Back brake binding and overheating]

I am pretty sure I’ve sorted the problem now!! 

I removed the plastic inlet pipe on the master cylinder and discovered that one of the two small holes was blocked up with crud. 

The hole is tiny and tapered so easy to block up over time. 

So I probably didn’t need the new seals etc fitted  - but at least I know they’re all good for a few more years of riding ! 

 

[Back brake binding and overheating]

4 minutes ago, GuzziMoto said:

If I understand you right, you should not be able to blow through the hose that connects the reservoir to the master cylinder with the brake line connected to the master. That is basically a dead end system when the brake line and caliper are connected. If you have fluid in the caliper and no fluid in the master it can be hard to get the master filled with fluid. My favorite way is to have enough fluid in the caliper where I can push the pistons in the caliper in to the caliper which forces fluid from the caliper back up into the master. Otherwise, another good way is to use a bleeder, either a vacuum bleeder or a pressure bleeder.

I have the master cylinder off the bike and i still cant blow through it... nothing connected.

[Back brake binding and overheating]

[Back brake binding and overheating]

Heres the master cylinder

[Back brake binding and overheating]

The plot thickens..

I fitted the service kit in the caliper earlier and everything went together really well. The old seals actually looked pretty good. 

On refilling the system with fluid I could not get any to flow down into the master cylinder - tried pumping the pedal - no joy. 

So I took the master cylinder back off took it apart again to make sure everything was spotless and clean (it has a new service kit fitted - I did it last week). 

What I can’t understand is when I blow through the plastic inlet which is attached to the tube going to the reservoir- there is no air flow no matter what position the piston is in. Surely when the piston is right back against the circlip there should be flow through to allow the fluid into the high pressure part (to the caliper). ??

Its as if the black piston needs to come out beyond the circlip. 

I’ll add some pics of the master cylinder. 

cheers

mark. 

[Back brake binding and overheating]

11 hours ago, gstallons said:

# 1 name everything you have done to this bike involving anything rear of the fuel tank filler . ANYTHING

 # 2 how long has this problem existed ?

 # 3 are you telling us everything / have you forgotten anything ?

1. All I have done to the bike since I’ve had it is fit some Mistral pipes and fit a new led rear light and indicators. 

2. It’s happened twice now in the last few weeks. 

3. I’m pretty sure I’ve mentioned everything. 

Cheers. 

[Back brake binding and overheating]

23 hours ago, Dan M said:

You can easily narrow down the problem. It is unlikely both pistons are seized at the same time. Do the simple stuff first. As GuzziMoto suggested, make sure the lever isn't constantly applying a slight amount of pressure to the master. Wiggle the lever up and down, the rod going into the master should have some free play. If that is OK, while trying to push the pistons back into the bore, open the bleeder. If the pistons still won't move (and the bleeder is clear) the issue is in your caliper. If fluid comes out and they suddenly move when you open the bleeder, it would indicate the problem is ahead of the caliper. The next step would be to close the bleeder pump the brake and get the piston back  out. While trying to collapse the piston loosen the line at the master. Again, if the piston retracts, you can rule out the hose.  At this point you can go after the master cylinder.

At the end of all of this, if you didn't swell the dust boots with WD40, get some brake cleaner and wash off all the lube you applied.The boots should be clean and dry. If they are swelled up or torn they should be replaced.

Thanks Dan M. I stripped it all down today and fitted a service kit to the master cylinder. I had real trouble getting the white nylon sleeve out - I had to destroy it to get it moving. I found there was a small amount of corrosion on the bore behind the sleeve. I removed it  with some fine wet and dry. 

 I wonder if this may have caused the piston to stick intermittently- causing the problem?? 

Fingers crosssed ...

ive got the caliper service kit coming this week and some new pads. 

The disc looks fine thank god. 

 

[Back brake binding and overheating]

Thanks for all the great feedback. 

I think I’m going to start with checking the master cylinder and get a service kit for it and perhaps get one for the Caliper too. This bike was a Japanese import with very low mileage so I’m guessing it’s just been laying idle for many years - which doesn’t help. 

Lucky Phil - your point about accidentally dragging the rear brake pedal is valid as I thought I may have been doing this. I think I’ll adjust the position of the lever so that it’s well out of the way. Also it has rear sets on - not sure if this would make a difference?