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igor

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Posts posted by igor

  1. 18 hours ago, docc said:

    The horn and tachometer get their power through Relay#2. On the early Sport this relay, in turn, gets the power from the weak contact of Relay#1.

    If you have not done so already, replace the entire relay set with a "Best" High Current relay from Pickers Components, CIT, (or OMRON if you can find them):

     

    Otherwise, check that your battery and charging voltages are adequate...

    thanks i'll check that out . i guess you can find the right values for the relay in the manual ?

  2. 11 minutes ago, guzziart said:

    Sitting here in my recliner.........Maybe a weak ground connection??!!  You could try grounding the horns separately to see if the condition changes to where it doesnt effect the tach function. idk.  I'm sure someone will be along soon to offer other ideas/fixes.

    Art

    thanks . hope someone had the same sort of issue

  3. Hi everyone

    I'm experiencing a weird electrical issue

    When i try to use the horn , it doesn't work and bring my rpm arrow back to zero each time i try to activate the horn .

    Any idea where it can come from ?

    thanks for your help

  4. 21 hours ago, docc said:

    Consider, also, what size rear tire you wish to try.  Some prefer a 170 on the later V11/ 5.5" rim over the 180 they were delivered with.

    Similarly, some early V11 Sport/Rosso Mandello owners with the 4.5" rim prefer a 160 rather than the 170 they were delivered with.

    The more "pointed" profile of the larger tire "pinched" onto the rim can promote flattening of the center . . .

    Hi Docc ,

    The ones mounted on mine are 180/55/17

    Sould i consider another size ? what are the pro's and con's ?

    Thanks

  5. Hello everyone ,

     

    I need to change the tyres of my v11 le mans . Bought it with Pirelli Angel on it , the rear is pretty worned flat in the middle , makes the handling a bit strange .

    What tyres would you suggest ? I was thinking on dunlop roadsmart 4

    Thanks for your help .

    Igor

  6. 11 hours ago, Tomchri said:

    Quick fix, sandpaper, rub both parts and glue it back together. Or order new ones from Stein Dinse, TLM.   Brake bolt sounds to me, must have been on the loose side.  I make a water lock on  a hose and stick it down in a jar with old brake fluid and connect it to the bleeder valve. Build up some pressure and open the bleeder valve. Not to hard. I always zip tie the brake handle over night to get all air out.

    Cheers Tom.

    thanks found the part on motorcycle spare parts ( cheaper than on other sites )

    • Like 1
  7. here are the picture seems like the previous owner already put some silicone .

    found the part on motorcycle spare parts ( cheaper than on other sites )

    Last question , do you think i should put some loctite on the bottom connection with the bolts ?

    Thanks

     

     

    image2(1).jpeg

    image0(3).jpeg

    • Thanks 1
  8. 10 hours ago, audiomick said:

    That's about right. On mine (2002 V11 Le Mans), and I assume the V11s are all the same, the instruments are mounted with three screws that screw in to isolation blocks. You might know them as "silent blocks", i.e. a rubber block that has a threaded shaft on the back to mount it to the frame, and a threaded hole on the front to screw the mounting screw for the instruments in to. The purpose of this method of mounting is to isolate the instruments a bit from the vibrations.

    What came loose on yours, the screw at the front, or the nut on the back?

    Hi thanks for your answer . I dont seem to see any fixation screws from the rubber to the dash board unless the metal rounded piece thats now on the dashboard was supposed to be in the rubber , and now it snapped off the rubber part and stay screwed to the dashboard . Would it be a solution to glue it back together with some silicone ? I'll take a picture in a few hours to show it more clearly .

    For the brakes you're right i guess i'll go to a mechanic and ask him to show me .

     

    thanks for your answer

  9. hi everyone

    Today the dashboard of my V11 le mans got loose .

    Watching how it's fixed it seems it's just 3 metal pieces going into 3 rubbers with a hole in it .

    Is there a way to fix this and to be sure it wont happen again ?

    Is it the rubbers that got old ?

    Would love some advice how to fix this .

     

    Also by getting loose it placed itself on the right side of the handlebar and somehow unscrew a bit the bolt of the brake line fluid, so fluid went out  . Now no front brake anymore . Is it easy to fix this ? I guess i have to put back brake fluid and purge the brakes , is it easy to do ?

    Thanks a lot in advance

    • Like 1
  10. 13 hours ago, docc said:

    Yes, those are the adjustments that ensure none of the mechanism fouls against the frame side plate, the starter, or any wires or tubing that may be routed near.

    Servicing this mechanism is a good starting point. If your gear box is still troublesome, we will go from there.

    thanks

  11. 3 hours ago, docc said:

    Hi, @igor! I am not sure what you mean by the "plastic cap" and "second bolt."

    Here is a view of the mechanism looking from the middle of the bike outward with the swingarm removed (for reference, only).

    IMG_2743.JPG

    Notice the lock nut on the pivot blot. This must be removed to unscrew the pivot bolt from the frame tab to clean and grease. See, also, the connecting rod and its Heim/ "rose" joints. These should be inspected, lubricated and tight, including the lock nuts on the rod. Adjust the rod length to get the extension arm of the foot lever and the arm on the gearbox input shaft parallel. This is best achieved with the starter off. (Remove the battery negative cable first!)

    image.png

    Make sure the arm on the gearbox is also pinched tight. The position of this arm (above on the left, behind the starter) and the length of the connecting rod can be adjusted to ensure the foot lever and entire mechanism swings freely up and down, in every gear, without striking the frame side plate or fouling the backside of the starter.

    The pivot bolt is screwed into the frame tab tightly enough to allow movement, but limit too much play. The pivot bolt lock nut is then used to fix the pivot bolt in that ideal position. I found that a small "shim" between the foot lever and frame tab helped:

    DSCN3926.jpg

    Once fully assembled, with the starter in place, check again that the entire mechanism moves freely in every gear without fouling anywhere in the up- and down-swings. :luigi:

    Hi Docc

    I think i start to understand , tell me if i'm wrong .

    To find this 6th gear not only the harm lenght should be adjusted but also the piece attached to the arm and entering the gearbox seen on the first picture ?

    thanks a lot for your help and patience .

    Igor

  12. 53 minutes ago, docc said:

    No need to take the swingarm off. That image is just for reference as you can see the entire mechanism from that angle.

    Removing the starter is helpful, though.

    I see what you are referring to, now. The "cap nut" is an eccentric adjuster and should only be set with the shift plate on the bench. Best not to mess with it.

    The rubber cap covers the Neutral Switch connector.

    can it not be adjusted by removing the starter , making the 2 nuts left and right of the little arm loose and turning the rod/arm in one direction or the other to move the gear pedal up or down ?

    thanks

  13. waow that seems a lot of work to adjust the shifter . remove the swingarm ?

    i was speaking about the nut bolt closest to the gear box

    on the second picture you see the end of the rod hidden behind a roundish cap

    sorry not very use to moto guzzi and mechanics .

     

    thanks

     

  14. On 3/23/2023 at 5:09 PM, docc said:

    It occurs to me that changing your shifting method and, perhaps, just fresh gear box oil might be the simplest solution . . . :mg:  :race:

    hello docc , iwas wondering to adjust the shift lever .

    i manage to loose the bolt on the right side , should i take off the plastic cap on the left side to able to reach the second bolt ?

    thanks

  15. 3 minutes ago, docc said:

    Most of us learned to shift a manual gearbox by starting with > disengage the clutch < , then move the shift lever.

    The V11 does far better by applying sufficient pressure with the foot on the shift lever, in the desired direction of the shift, that when the clutch lever is pulled to disengage the clutch, the shift movement occurs spontaneously.

    I would add that it is helpful to take up all of the "freeplay" in the clutch lever first, as well.

    Said differently, remove all excess play in both the foot shift lever and the hand clutch lever, keeping significant pressure ("Preload") on the foot shifter, then disengage the clutch.  The foot preload will move the shift mechanism very efficiently.

    interesting

    thanks

    • Like 1
  16. hello docc thanks for your reply . i'll try the adjustement , then eventually fresh fluid .

    can you explain me what do you mean with

    " It is notable that the V11 shift mechanism benefits from "preloading" (introducing foot pressure to the shift lever) before releasing the clutch for the gear change. " ?

    foot pressure ?

     

    • Like 1
  17. 21 hours ago, docc said:

    Here is a discussion of adjusting the shift lever to find your hidden 6th gear, @igor. There were no V11 fitted with a 5speed, beginning in 1999.

     

    thanks for your reply

    so it's just a gear shifter adjustement ?

    small chances of having a problem in the gear box ? someone told me is almost impossible to have the 6th gear problem , happens mostly  with lower gears ?

    thanks a lot

     

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