S251
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Posts posted by S251
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The Cali Vintage has twin plug heads, EFI same as V11s and a crankcase that looks like would fit in a Ballagio frame. No "old models" match that. Also early V11 like the Sport 1100 have 5 speed gearboxes. The Tonti frame is the tall version not the old low version. Put it in the Newer section please. Its no wild Guzzi really but a nice ride when the clip-ons and rear-sets need cleaning.
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Thanks Richard100t
Its just under a quarter inch thick. I have a replacement plate right here, just in case! lol -
This was on the forum from July 3 2002 from
al_roethlisberger@yahoo.com
Sanford, NC USA
BTW, since there have been some lack-luster reviews of the rear OEM Ohlins shock on the Scura (justified or not rolleyes.gif ) ... here is Ohlins direct replacement for anyone interested:
Brand Model Year
Moto-Guzzi V11 2002
Öhlins shock absorber
Part No. Type Position Comment
MG 127 46HRCS Rear "
• Type 46PRC with hose mounted reservoir, easy to fit where it is easy to reach.
• Fully adjustable single shock absorber.
• Improved cooling gives more consistent damping and longer damper life.
• Features compression, rebound and hydraulic pre-load adjuster.
Hi!Anyone knows the Ohlins code number for the Ohlins rearshock of the Rosso Corsa-Scura models?
As far as the Ohlins front forks, the code is FG313, am I right?
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Does anyone know what the stock thickness should be for a new sintered single plate friction plate is? Stock RAM for Scura and or the after market RAM I have f\both and both cactus.
After 1,000 mine has wasted away so I can't tell.
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I have pictures of my RAM from Agostinis and the original SCURA for comarison.
The RAM is installed and working better than the original. Less vibration and more predictable take up.
1 RAM 2 SCURA original
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Yeah, so I am a bit of a wanker but it helps to know which V11 is which.
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I see some owners have installed Ohlins on their bikes ttat came with Marzocchi brand. Everyone that did is happier and about $1500.00 usd lighter. Can the Marzocchi forks be reworked to perform up to Ohlins quality? Also Showa forks are available at a bargain price.Can they be reworked to perfrom to Ohlin standards? Also do the Showa need all the adaptation mods the Ohlins do?
Yeah, it all a bit confusing bcause a lot of Ohlins fitted V11s such as SCURAs have a few quirks that the others don't. Sure the Ohlins are smooth and adjustable but they do need a lot more care and maintenance. Reworking the originals seems a better option.
good luck
PeterD S251
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251 Austraila
Complete list so far if your missing mail me9 Germany
29 Germany
39 Germany
90 Germany
98 Italy
99 Germany
111 Germany
134 Germany
135 Germany
150 Ireland
222 Scotland
225 Scotland
232 USA
250 Australia
251 Australia
254 Australia
255 Australia
261 Australia
275 Australia
283 USA
288 USA
300 Germany
310 Isle of Man
313 England
352 Australia
358 USA
370 USA
381 USA
395 USA
401 Netherlands
484 Wales
497 Ireland
498 Scotland
580 Denmark
599 USA
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What he said
Cali Vintage, V11 SCURA all in the workshop for service and an Aprillia Sport City 200 Scooter loaned to my neice, and I am on the train! Where do I begin?
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Hey you guys,
Is a California Vintage a V11 suitable for this forum or what???? 
or 
What do you say? S251 -
When you say 50mm & 10mm too far away, Is there 50/10mm mm space between end of pushrod & retainer cup it acts upon (centre button?) when lever pulled in (when clutch should be disengaged)? How are you measuring that? What is the difference between the kit part & the part Agostini later supplied? The retainer cup on my kit is pressed into centre of spring plate, & not removable.
Are you sure kit is assembled correctly? Did it come w/parts diagram?
I bought a RAM unit from Agostinis for Scura about a yr ago, but still haven't got round to fitting it. I have bike apart, but haven't checked any measurements.
I fitted a RAM unit to my Tonti a few yrs back & the hole that located the pushrod in the retainer cup was much wider diameter than the pushrod. I was concerned that if the pushrod slopped about at the clutch end it would wear on the clutch centre hub...but I asked around at the time & heard it wasn't a problem. It's been in a while & still works....
Part # for Guzzi single plate spring as fitted to Rosso Mandello (I don't have ref for Scura) is: 01 08 40 40.
I think a couple of people here have fitted RAM kits to Scuras?
KB
KB Thanks for the part number.
I will try to attach pics of the RAM KIT and the original SCURA parts for comparison. 800k each
In regard the RAM KIT::::
Agostini "stongly"
reccomeded that the mechanic just fit the supplied clutch kit, after "replacing the push rod centre". Apparently they heat the spring that carries the locating button just a bit and punch it out and loctite the new centtre to suit the SCURA push rod.To cut a long story short, the Agostini supplied RAM kit sems to engange and dissengage the drive. NO TEST RIDE YET. The fluid in the system seems to take up a bit more and push rod seems to take up the pressure. We will see soon after the road test but all seems as per Agostini's advice execpt that the RAM KIT locating button needed changing and the RAM supplied sleeve gear did not fit the SCURA.
PeterD S251
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HELP! :A few moths ago I purchased a RAM low intertia kit, the whole kit from Agostini, for my SCURA. Recently gave to a well trusted and relable workshop to install, but alas, it does not fit. The centre button for the pushrod is about 50mm too far away and the locator the wrong diameter for the push rod.
Agostini sent a new centre button but it is still 10mm too short to activate the clutch.
Does anyone know what this kit fits? And does anyone know the GUZZI factory part number for the spring only?
Tried to get another kit but I have been told that MG Cycles can no longer get the ful kit for the SCURA either.
PeterD S251.
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Dear Mr Roper,
I took the time to set the ride height and all the static measures in line with the OHLINS manual and S251 was a mess on the road in nearly all conditions.
NextI took the spring, and dampening to near max and S251 was stable in turns tight and wide but really unstable in a straight line, not dangerous but pitching left to right with near zero input.
Over the last few weeks I have reduced spring and dampening to near the lowest settings and the straight line stability has improved. ( This may be why MPH reccomend taking the forks through the yokes a bit?)
Stablity in turns tight and wide is good. Reaction to quick throttle movements is not so good. (too soft all round)
Questions come to mind.
Are the spring rates wrong? (It could be so) Need to keep the bike stiffer without extending the fork due to tigtening the springs.
Is the fork length right for the frame geometry? (Dont know seems to corner beyond my capacity to ride.)
Works OK on the track and street. Just likes to pitch about a little.
I have kept a record of the measures but the details are too many to list here.
Regards
S251
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I have the Buel pegs on my LeMans and I quite like them.
It lowered the pegs just enough for me to make the knee angle just right. Now I only have a 30" inseam so maybe that is part of it. For what it cost me I think it was a very good investment. I've done an 800 mile day 
with no leg problems what so ever. I'm keeping mine. 
Yes, I am short and the Buel pegs are OK on my SCURA so far. No real long ride test as I have a broken wrist from a scooter vs a taxi accident.
My leg and ankle angle is even better with the Buel Ulysses pegs. I have both but I think it works only for shorties. Works for me.
S251
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Not meaning to piss on a man's parade, but what angle do the pillion's feet sit at once on the back? It looks like either: the pillion's toes will interfere with the back of the rider's leg/heal or; the pillion's heal will rest on the carbon cans. Having had a pillion rest their heal on the carbon cans of my 1100 for a relativly short ride (about 1.5 hours) I can assure you it's not a nice experience. Their entire boot heal melted all over the can (the strangest thing was that they didn't notice the heat in their boot!!!) and I couldn't get the boot rubber off. In the end I had to admit defeat and get a new set of cans!
Yes it looks a little cramped. We seem to sit OK on the bike, my boot size is 43 and pillion's is size 37. "Feet sizes only".
It was sad to scratch the paintwork during the fitting as well given that it was baked on engine paint.
Pillion would not ride until I made it as good as our old 90S BMW. Pillion is happy now excepth for the odd thing on the back. OOPs
With the riders clip ons and reasets my toes point to the ground 45 to 50 degrees. The pillion's feet are near flat less than 10 degrees. The exhausts are Mistral oval carbon that are shorter than the stock carbon cans so the lead pipe to the can is longer, providing more air space between the foot peg and the exhaust can than stock item.
I have tried to attach a photo that shows the incongruity. 311k is too big sorry I need some help.
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Here are a few pictures of the finished prototype for the passenger pegs modification.
Spot the incongruity. Sorry it is on the full size photo!
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Dear forum
The long and sorry tale of my SCURA and Ohlins continues.
The fork seals are on back order, apparently none here in Sydney or Australia. Another 2 weeks off the road.
They tell me the seals are 11mm high. Does anyone know the correct part number for the original item and or substitue part and where to get them. :!:
Thanks
S251
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No, you did not call anyone a philistine.
That was a joke.
Ratchet has only used the word how many times??????
It seems to have taken on the meaning of anyone who disagrees with him.
So, that is how it was used.
As for gold nitride not doing anything, again we disagree. You are the expert, but I defer to other experts, like this Max at Traxxion guy.
As for the tubes being unscored and smooth, that would be a good indicator of a future successful seal life. But we don't have enough information.
S251 suggested that there was a problem all along.
I would hope the warranty would cover the tubes and seals and rear shock.I would be checking the tubes to see if they are unscored and smooth rather than suggesting they are fine after an 8500km faillure.
Perhaps dragging a pencil eraser across the surface would give an indication of whether the seal would feel increased friction where the nitride has worn off...an electron microscope might be overkill and still not give a good indication.
For me this fork failure is a wake up call to better protect my ti-nitride.
323, thanks for posting about the sealmate
FWIW, I wish the forks were silver colored instead of gold to better match the bike, but I can't expect you to share the same aesthetic taste. I value the function of the Ohlins and the nitride coating over the aesthetics, but I probably won't get an award from Ratchet for it because I probably spent so much money on the upgrade.
Yes, I did mention to the retailer that the shocks were suspect from the outset. The rear shock in particular was good some days and bad on others. Adjustments made a little difference but the loss of control over the spring on the bad days was really evident to anyone who rode the bike. This however, could not be translated into action by the retailer.
Here in Sydney some retailers are not inclined to do do anything apart from sell the bike and then sell another bike so as to keep away from costly workshop time. The retailer would not even take the bike back at 6,500km as part payment for a new Griso, or Le mans before the seals leaked at 8,500km. IS IT THE SCURGE OF THE SCURA????
With the front the respone from the retailer was; "just try the settings, and by the way you have to buy the correct MG Scura booklet for $20 AUD if you want one" when I asked for the booklet.
Now back to technical: I have sent the shock and forks to be rebuilt with new stanchion tubes, seals etc. The rear shock is to get a hydraulic adjuster new seals, oil, gas etc. The shock technician tells me that the Ohlins need a little more TLC than road shocks but the difference is worth the cost. I really do not know as they never worked from the start.
I am expecting the whole lot back 26 July 06. AND NO, NO, I will not get a GRISO
I really like the SCURA.Thanks for the commentry on Ohlins.
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What do you mean by "the forks wore out"? The stanchion surface? the bushes?As Paul says, seals are a loose fit for reduced stiction & fail regularly (I've had anywhere between 3-7k miles) & start to leak. Replacing the seals fixes it. I have 17k miles & AFAIK surfaces are good.
If dust scrapers & seals are good, dust shouldn't be getting into wear surfaces??? But I guess if you're in a very dusty area you could have problems, & the fact that botrh ends gave up....what happened to shock? Was fork oil ever changed?
I also fitted RSVR guard, but it really needs an extra strip down the side to fully protect stanchion fronts.
Martin Barrett came up with an idea that leaving bike on sidestand for long periods may set seals & promote leaks - dunno, but now I try always leave it on workshop stand.
Ohlins are really designed for track use hence the problems in road conditions.
KB
Yes the gold stanchion surface wore through to the bright chrome and the seals fail. No dirt riding only city and highways. The bike has been we me from new but in the shop for 2 years and serviced by the dealer for sale.
I use a becker stand.
thanks
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A funny thing happened to my Scura at about 8,300kms on the clock. The forks wore out and the seals gave way. Strange or normal I do not know but very expensive I expect.
The rear shock just stopped working from time to time and then gave up altogether.
I had mentioned to the dealer that all was not well for over 12 months in the warranty period. The response was let it work itself in an all will be fine. Not so.
The forks are out to the doctors for a good fix up. Any comments on this strange tale whilst I wait for the repairs?
Thanks
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This was a real home effort in design and manufacture where I made a prototype in MDF with a jig saw first up to check my rough CAD drawing.
For this first production the alloy is just garden variety aluminium 10mm thick that was supplied and water-jet cut from my drawing by one of the local aerospace engineering firms in Sydney for about $200.00 AUD. I think that 12mm should be the minimum thickness for a production run.
A member of the MGOA NSW arranged for the bending the off-set to my specifications for a few bottles of good red wine. He also lined up the engineering firm. So being in the MGOA is a good thing for many reasons.
The bending takes up some of the length and seems to have worked first time but because I was not sure at the time the mounting holes were cut out after the flat cut out was bent. All the mounting holes were drilled out on a small drill press at home. Now that the specs have been confirmed all cutting and drill hole can be done in one go for a professional finish.
Since the last posting I have rounded the edges and prepared the surface for painting to match the original finish. What I really need now is some good looking bolt on passenger pegs.
From my testing the rider of up 180cm in height has enough foot space.
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Good day again to all V11 owners that like to have a passenger, I have been working on a home made modification to move the passenger pegs forward about 180mm and keep the original mount for the exhaust.
As this is my second post with an attachment I hope it is a success, old chaps.
I have a few more pictures showing the fitting on the SCURA, however, as a rider aged over 45 years of my IT skills are not as polished as my manners.
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This is my second and last attempt to attach a picture until the next attempt.
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