drjim99
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Posts posted by drjim99
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Hi John,
I am interested but it is hard to commit without some sense of the likely cost. Can you provide a high-low range of estimated cost? Thanks!
Jim
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Red with black stripe.
This tank will fit the Moto Guzzi Monza Series I, and Imola Series I, as well as the V50 III (with the addition of a Monza seat). The tank is in as new condition, and includes two new fuel petcocks, a NOS tank strap and a NOS black fuel flap door. The only flaw is some minor peeling of the second "z" on the Moto Guzzi decal on the left side of the tank.
This is a NOS tank purchased from MI in 2005. My plan was to convert a V65 SP to a Monza, but I never did the project. My total cost for these parts was over $600.
I also have a used Monza seat which I will give to the buyer at no charge. The seat is disassembled but complete. I paid MI over $500 for this seat.
$250/OBO for everything
Prefer pick-up (I am located on Long Island, approximately 20 miles from midtown Manhattan).
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Rossopuro fender eliminator for V11, for sale. Black anodized aluminum. New, never used. For photos and details go to: http://www.rossopuroitalia.it/index.asp?Pr...rd_PrdType_ID=8
Kit allows you to completely remove the rear fender and mount your rear tail light and license plate to existing mounting holes. I have drilled two additional holes in the license plate holder to allow mounting a North American plate, as the existing holes are only for European plates.
I purchased this kit in August for my 2004 V11 Sport, but never mounted it. The kit cost 69 Euros, plus 43.50 Euros for shipping to North America - total was approximately $160.00. I will sell it for $100, plus shipping. The kit will go on e-Bay in January if no one from the Forum is interested.
I am located near New York City. Phone (516-732-0962) or PM me if you are interested.
Jim
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I installed Ti- kit 5 days ago.
My bike is 2004 Cafe Sport /front crossover/MY 2003 ECU/cat/lambda sensor.
It was an easy and straightforward job, and the bike looks good, with the titanium cans looking at the sky!!!!!!
Big difference in weight, something expected because of the cat in the factory mufflers.
Also big difference in the produced heat... I touched them by accident while adjusting the bike ( engine was running more than ten minutes in idle) and ...no marks to show my stupidity
Sound is exactly what I wanted, more bass notes at idle, a lot of twin cylinder character in 3000-5500 range, and not at all disturbing or too loud in the whole range.Non omologated Mistrals are louder, but I use the bike in city, so Ti cans are perfect.
Bike feels strong, but gives me the impression that revs a bit slower,...anyway no big difference than before except the wonderful sound.May be that I adjusted TPS at 3.8, you see instructions were missing when I received the box from TLM, and they send them to me by post.Now I read that the proper value for MY 2003 is TPS 2.9, so I will try it and ....see.
Also instructions say to adjust CO at 4%, but I don"t understand how you can do that.A friend has a gas analyzer, and I gave it a try
to adjust the CO at 4% using the bypass screws, but the Lambda sensor was always correcting and changing the mixture.
ANY INFO OR SUGGESTION WELCOME!!!!
The CO % is controlled by the ECU. It is my understanding (although I have not done it myself) that you have 4 options for adjusting the CO level:
1) Have your dealer adjust it using the Guzzi tuning software (assuming they're willing to ajust the CO outside of what is possibly the legal range)
2) Buy, borrow or steal the Guzzi tuning software package (it is pretty expensive) and make the ajustments yourself
3) Add a PC111 to your bike and DynoTune it to achieve the best performance
4) Replace the Ti ECU with a Jeffries My15M ECU which will allow you to adjust all the engine parameters. Like the PC111 you will need to do Dyno Tuning to optimize performance.
Good luck!
Jim
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I installed Firefox from your link. It all went very fast, about a minute or so, then the Agree thing came up as usual, then the Norton virus program (which I have installed) started checking the downloaded stuff. I eventually ended up with a Firefox icon on my desktop. I tried to drag it in the Application folder, where it shows up as an alias icon (with one of those curved black arrows
). I also tried to drag it in the dock, but nada. WTF... And it also shows up in the finder as if it was one of those discs/connections for which you can press an arrow point and they get either ejected or terminated. I haven't done anything yet. Crap. It's always like this... Computers were not designed not for analog human beings, but for digital ones. 
You need Camino, it is the Mac version of Mozilla's Firefox. Your computer cannot run Firefox, it is for Windows based computers. Drag the Firefox icon into the Trash, and download Camino at www.caminobrowser.org. Good luck!
Jim
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Is the 2.9 degrees for the kit ECM and the factory ECM?
(crossover models)
Based on my experience, yes. My 2004 V11 Sport, in stock form, ran very well with the TPS set at 2.9 degrees (in fact this was the setting that came from the factory).
Jim
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The instructions for the later bikes indicate a TPS setting of 2.9 degrees +/- 0.1 (465 mv +/- 5mv). For the earlier bikes a TPS setting of 3.8 +/- 0.1 is recommended. A copy of the English version of the instructions for Model years 2002 and beyond is attached. I have a 2004 V11 Sport, with the front crossover, and these settings work for me.
Jim
Well, it looks like my attachment did not attach, so here's what the instructions say:
THROTTLE BODY SETTING PROCEDURE
Engine Not Running But Key On
- Connect PC with MDST (diagnosis program) and vacumeter
- Disconnect the stick from the right throttle body
- Tune (on right throttle body) the throttle potentiometer till you reach 2.9 +/- 0.1 (465 mv +/- 5 mv)
- BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE POTENTIOMETER TURN KEY OFF
TURN ON ENGINE (ENGINE TEMPERATURE MUST REACH MINIMUM 50 DEGREES C)
- Tune left cylinder vacuum equal to right one with the tuning screw (not the bypass one) with the connecting stick disconnected
- CLOSE COMPLETELY BY-PASS SCREWS
- Connect the throttle connecting stick, then verify that out of idle condition (2000/3000 rpm) vacuum in the two cylinders is equal, and in case tune the stick screw to equalize it.
- DISCONNECT VACUUMETER (IMPORTANT)
- FROM THIS POINT ON THE ENGINE TEMPERATURE MUST BE WITHIN 70 TO 80 DEGREES C (KEEP THE ENGINE RUNNING AT LEAST 3 MINUTES BEFORE CHECKING "CO" VALUE)
- Tune by "By-Pass Screws" idle condition at 1100 +/- 50 rpm
- Regolare, tramite Trim di centralina, il CO del cilintro di sinistra al valore di 4% +/- 0,5.
- NOTE: The Trim value can have any value that allows it to achieve the wished CO
- Tune, by ECU Trim, left cylinder CO at 4% value
NOTE THE FOLLOWING STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT
- Verify the Right cylinder CO value is similar (+/- 0.2) to left one, otherwise tune it by right By-Pass screw.
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HELP - I need a good machine shop in the NYC area that can unstick some stuck screws!
Here's the story. Today I removed my rear wheel to install an Edge-Gard (great product, by the way) on my 2004 V11 Sport. While I had the wheel off I decided to clean and lube the Cush drive according to the fix Greg Field recently posted ("Making a Cushier Cush Drive"). Unfortunately, the 6mm button head hex screws securing the Cush Drive retaining plate were frozen. Despite my best efforts I managed to strip out the internal hexes in two of them.
I don't have the time, patience, tools or expertise to deal with removing these frozen scews (with stripped heads). So, it's time to bring in a professional.
Can anyone recommend a good machine shop in the NYC area (preferably on or near Long Island) who will remove these frozen screws without ruining my wheel?
TIA
Jim
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so, now that my V-11 Le Mans is again rideable (by my titanium laden knee) thanks to the new forward controls supplied by one of our members, and the only Guzzi dealer we had in New Mexico has bitten the dust, what is the size of th weird Allen key necessary to remove the manhole (handhole)? and where do I buy such a thinghie?
If you don't want to go the "DIY" route to make-up a manhole cover wrench you have a couple of choices: Harper's Moto Guzzi sells a tool similar to the one RatchetHack had made-up by his local welder. Alternatively, in an earlier thread on this topic, a couple of forum members found a 27mm Hex Socket made specifically for this application. The tool is available directly from ZDMAK for $21.99 including shipping, go to http://www.toolss.com/ and search for VA6011.
Jim
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Hi,
I just got my FBF Crossover pipe today. Ferracci was out of stock and they switched manufactuers.. Unlike the old pipe that looked more like an "H" pipe the new one is more like the Stucci, an "X" shape. the welds and bends look very clean. I will try and get a photo of it and post it by the weekend.
The PC III is in the mail (I hope), the Staintunes are sitting on the shelf in the basement and my arm is healed up enough to ride again!
life is good
Based on recommendation on this website I ordered the FBF x-over for my 2004 V11 Sport. I recieved the cross-over today and was surprised to find it does not have a mounting bracket. It is simply supported by the header pipes and the mufflers. Two questions: 1) Is this the same as other people's FBF crossovers (i.e., lacking a mounting braket)?, and 2) If it is the same, have you found that having the crossover supported by just the exhaust system causes any problems (e.g., leaks, cracking, etc...)? Thanks!
Jim
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I'm working on this bike for someone, they said it wouldn't start out of the blue one day.
They also said there was a fuse that blew at the same time. Fuse was replaced, but it made no difference.
So today when I got a chance to have a look, I found that everything seems normal, except nothing happens when you hit the start button. I jumped the solenoid with a screwdriver and forced it to crank, it fired right up and ran.
I saw there were two relays of the same type on the left side, one that went to the solenoid so I swapped it with the other (headlight relay, maybe?), no change. So I assume that's not it either. Took the tank off and chased the wires up to the switch, uplugged the connector and sprayed with WD-40 for good measure, checked for chafed areas etc...nothing. Tried moving the harness around while holding the start button, nothing.
I assume the start button switch went bad, but what I wanted to ask is this:
Is there any type of nuetral safety interlock on this bike? I didn't see one that was real obvious, they are usually pretty easy to find on Jap bikes...that's a common cause of no-crank on them, the switch sticks and it thinks you are trying to start it in gear. Am I correct to assume this bike doesn't have that feature?
Also...we noticed one fuse was quite warm with the ignition on....and they said it was NOT the fuse that they changed...there is only four fuses, but we had no reference as to what it protects. Looking at the fusebox from the right side, it was the 3rd fuse from the left, if that helps.
This concerned me because the last time I saw that, it was a reg/rectifier that was bad and caused a wiring meltdown...still...not sure if it's related, a red herring, or what.
Anyway...didn't mean to write a novel about it, but this (Guzzi) is uncharted territory for me, and just wanted some orientation and knowlegeable opinion before diving in blind.
Thanks!
The handlebar switch gear on these bikes was pure junk. The Right Hand starter switch on my 1984 V65 fell apart after one year. The preferred fix at the time was to replace the Guzzi switch with one from a Ducati Pantah. The Ducati switch was really well made but had one big quirk - it was wired backwards. In other words, when the switch was in the "Run" position it was actually "Stop". The switch had to be in the Stop position in order to start the bike. Needless to say I often forgot about this "feature" when I had not used the bike in a while and would go through hours of useless troubleshooting trying to start the bike with the switch in the wrong (i.e., "run") position.
Bottom line - make sure this bike does not have a Ducati starter switch in place of the Moto Guzzi switch. The Moto Guzzi switch is multi-colored, while the Ducati switch is all black.
Good luck!
Jim
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hi all,
A friend of mine just bought himself a lovely 749, with crash protectors fitted on his fork and two on the side of the fairing. Looks quite discreet and as he does trackdays often, one never knows...
i tried to locate some for V11, but couldn't. Anyone knows who does them ?
thanx !
I recently saw something similar and was interested in a set for my V11 as well.
I found that R&G Racing Products makes a complete set of "crash protectors" for a number of bikes, including the Ducati 749. Here's a link the their website: http://www.rg-racing.com//showproducts/Crash_Protectors.aspx.
Unfortunately, they do not currently make a set for the V11. However, they told me that if enough people express interest in a set for the V11 they would consider producing them. So, if we can get enough forum members to send requests to R&G, you never know......
Here's R&G's contact information:
Tel: +44 (0) 870 2206 380
Fax : +44 (0) 1420 521 101
Email: info@rg-racing.com
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"Did the oil change myself. Hand torqued, just like every other filter I've changed over the years... It had been on the bike for about 3,000 miles since the previous oil change..."
Mike - Sorry to hear about your Quota!
Sorry to be dense, but when you say the filter was "hand torqued" do you mean 1) You held the filter with your hand and tightened it, or 2) You used a torque wrench and tightened the filter to the recommended torque of 10-12 Nm (app. 7.5 - 9 Ft. lbs.)?
Jim
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Hey guys,
I appreciate the comments and requests and I will make sure I get them done while I am on break in March. That time of year in Northern New York is still a bit too early for any serious riding, so I should have the time to get them done. Please be patient, and I'll post when I am ready to ship to all who have requested. Thanks again.
Ride safe
Edge -
Please add me to the list for a mud guard. Thanks!
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I have a V11 coming in in a couple of weeks for a service, with the owner's permission I'll whip the sump off and start work on designing a sloppage sheet if Greg doesn't get there first.
How many people would like one just out of interest?
Pete
Pete
I'll take one. Thanks!
Jim
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"I am a little paranoid that they switched from brass to plastic to insulate the sensor from overheating, so I intend on using a fair amount of teflon tape to insulate it a little.
Since I have tuneboy, I was planning on tweaking the engine temperature map, anyway."
I have not yet installed the brass temperature sensor receptacle on my bike, so can't speak from personal experience. But, Guzziology (see page 7-56) says the brass receptacle results in a richer mixture (approximately 1/2% increase in CO levels). I assume this is because the brass receptacle transmits more heat to the sensor, which causes the ECU to richen the mixture.
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Aaron and Keith, thanks for sharing your experiences and insights. I feel much better now!
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Aaron and Anthony, thanks so much for producing the front crossover shims. I just installed them and they fit perfectly. My bike is a brand new 2004 Sport Naked with just 25 miles on it (just got it last week). Amazingly, the factory shim on one side had already begun to deteriorate, so this was a timely fix.
I do have a question - I tightened the hose clamps on the front crossover pipe to 5 ft-lbs (app. 7 N-m). At this tightness the front crossover has no play at all, even when firmly shaken. Is this OK or should there be a little play in the front crossover in order to prevent stressing and cracking the welds attaching the crossover to the header pipe? I assume Moto Guzzi designed the rather odd OE mounting system for some logical reason, although I may be giving them too much credit. What has been other people's experience with the correct tightness for the front crossover when using the revised shims?
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Moto International, in Washington, has a new (2004) Cafe' Sport and several Coppa Italias listed on their website at very good prices, with full warranties (click on the banner at the top of the main Moto International homepage that says "special deals on special bikes"). I looked into buying one of these bikes and the freight from Washington to New York was around $500, so it's probably about the same cost to ship to Ohio.
2004 V11 Sport For Sale $6000, Low Mileage
in Personal Ads
Posted
One owner, very low mileage (1350 miles) V11 in excellent condition. Yes, that's one thousand three hundred and fifty miles. Purchased new in 2006 from Eastern Cycles (now "Cycles 128") in Massachusetts. Always garaged and properly maintained. Upgrades include: Moto Guzzi Titanium Race Exhaust; Stucchi crossover; Dynojet PC-III with custom map; Motobits billet aluminum foot controls; Moto Guzzi billet aluminum passenger footpegs to match Motobits foot controls; 3M paint protection film on front fender, tank, pork chops, headlight and rear cowl; Moto Guzzi aluminum rear rack with fitted bag; front forks rebuilt and new springs installed (for 180 lb. rider) by Race Tech in 2014; Moto Guzzi workshop stand and original exhaust system included. Bike is located on Long Island, close to NYC.
See listing on Craigslist for photos: http:longisland.craigslist.org/mcy/5175464823.html
Contact: jimbenton99@gmail.com