nose2wind
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Posts posted by nose2wind
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I still have my V11s after purchasing a Stelvio. If I had to sell one it would be the Stelvio. The V11 is my short ride bike and such a classic and still a hoot to ride. The Stelvio is a long distance machine. I don't like the weight of the Stelvio.
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I had a similar problem just after purchasing a 09 Stelvio @ 20,000 miles. I installed new gaskets ($$) and have over 40,000 miles with no issues. I understand that if you let anything get loose at the fittings the gaskets are prone to blowing out. I checked mine for loosening up, but no issues. We are talking about the expensive carbon spacers?
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The Good
I have 2 Shorai batteries in a newer vintage Stelvio and Buell. Weight savings in nice, but not the only reason I switched. The batteries can sit longer without needing a charge. I don't like having to put my bikes on chargers. They should last longer and don't have acid. So far I like them.
The Bad
In very cold weather they loose cranking power. I have not been stranded, but have noticed the weaker starting on cold mornings close to freezing. Below that could have been a problem. Fitment for a 2000 V11s. I have called on the Shorai and another brand and was told they do not have a battery for this model. Something about the older model charging system is not compatible. Not sure what that would be, but It put me off for now. If you find out different let me know.
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I purchased a 2009 Stelvio. It has/had Pirelli Scorp Trails. The originals were Syn's. I need to replace the tires. Is there a preferred tire for this model? The original owner seemed to like the Trails a lot. Any suggestions?
TIA
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I like the V7 series too, but they need to make a dual sport out of one!
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And, so . . . now what? Does anyone have one of these jewels?
I'm hoping Moto Guzzi NA brings them to Barber's Oct 2011.
I fear I may be smitten!
Hey Docc, been awhile. You get a Stelvio. I was considering one, but the weight has me a little concerned. You?
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I would like to replace my relays. Is there a good source to purchase from? There used to be someone on the list who was selling them. I checked Autozone and they were really expensive.
Thanks for any help
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I had long thought the swinging needle was from the early version's bevel drives, but it appears the later, with the bent tubes, also wags.
I'll try to damp the cable in housing with the engine assembly lube and see what happens . . .
Docc, I think Guzzi moved away from the bevel drive because they had a tendency to self destruct. I'm on my 3rd!
Birddawg
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I also have talked with North Hollywood Speedo about either refurbishing the stock set-up, or more likely, replacing the guts with more reliable internals. He (the gentleman on the phone) said he wasn't sure what could be done but that he was willing to try. I have almost pulled the trigger on a motogadget setup at least three times, but have stayed hopeful that I can get the Veglias to operate correctly. Maybe I should just give up the chase on getting these things to work correctly.
So what would they charge to put some other internals and re-calibrate. That might be the way to go if the price is right. You get a decent speedo that looks great. A new Veglia is gonna go south eventually and $300.00 a pop
Birddawg
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Just a heads up,
While trying to track down a stumble I was checking fuel filter and blew out a bunch of black residue.
I think the tank to pump hose was emitting a residue (black Powder) substance into the filter. I changed out the hose. The bike is 10 years old now so maybe a good idea to change these out.
Birddawg
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First Veglia was replaced under warranty at 27,000 miles for waivering 10 mph at highway speeds. The new speedo waivered at low speed, which was more acceptable. Until the trip meter locked up and the needle starting flicking 10 mph every four seconds (44,821 miles). Upon disassembly I managed to break both the reset and the glass. The little plastic gears inside look less than perfect.
I have ordered a replacement (298 USD + S/H and a couple weeks), but I wonder if anyone has successfully had a Veglia rebuilt or should I just convert the space to something more useful . . .
Hey Doc, I sent my speedo to North Hollywood Speedometer once. Came back fine but has some similar problems again. I think you did the right thing going new. It cost almost as much to ship and repair with no Gaurantee.
Birddawg
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thanks guys will replace soonest-is a ceramic holder a better option?
A ceramic holder would be ok but I think the regular plastic should be too, that's what I have in my after market and no problems.
Your old connector was loose, it melted around just one of the pins.
Notice the colour of the lamp pin compared to the one adjacent, looks like it might have been red hot.
BTW, no I don't think this caused the regulator problem, the headlight would be drawing less current with a bad connection, I
think it's very unlikely you would get a short there.
Replace the bulb and holder, you will be as good as new.
Same problem on a 2000 v11s, Just bought a new plastic connector at auto store. Problem solved.
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It is, quite simply, a sign: that you should bring your RedFrame to the South'n Spine Raid. It's been too long since you've been soaked to the bone having to endure an unendurable pace complicated by Norges and EVs.
No, really, you should come on over. . . (again)
(Glad to see you on the forums!) docc
Checked all the wiring main connectors etc. relay block etc. All looked fine no corrision or worn wire or loose connections. Battery connections fine also. Decided to move to the kick stand cut off switch.
Bypassed by opening the connector and bridging the terminals.
4 mile test run and no cut outs. Need a longer run to make sure as sometimes it takes awhile to surface but encouraging non the less.
Hey Docc, when is the spine frame this year? Got a new Buell Uly (couldn't resist the give away pricing). However I still love taking "Kermit" out. That is why I need to get it reliable.
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Thanks for the input. I will report back with any findings...
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From what I remember my knob did not come off the shaft. The entire knob and shaft unscrews left hand. I used some blue locktite because you may need to get it off.
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I have a 2000 v11s with 66,000 on the clock.
The bike starts and runs great but has developed a cut out/off. By that I mean you could be running fine in a straight line or in a corner and the bike will cut out and back on, as if you reached up and hit the kill switch off and back on. It will do this a couple of times and then may be fine for 30 minutes and repeat. It may also occur from a dead stop but seems to occur more often while at speed. Once I had the bike die completely and would not restart. Got the bike home, recharged the battery and it started up fine.
The neutral,kickstand, and kill switch seem to work as they should but I have not tried to bypass anything yet. I have moved the relays around with no luck.
Any ideas on where to start? I suspect something electrical. This one is tough because I cannot simulate the problem in the garage. I will have to make a change and go ride to see if the problem will occur.
Thanks,
Birddawg
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Check steering head Bearings for looseness.
I had this condition but it was more of a chatter!
Good luck
D
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Carl-
You've got to know me better than that!
I didn't MISS it... I saw it - I just didn't include it because I didn't want to seem too repetitive.
Some of us like repetition
Now they are out of sequence too.
The right is bigger than the left and is all sticky
DAMN
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How do I drive them out with the spacer tube in there? Cheer! Alan
It is a pain... There is a notch in the spacer tube where it rest on the bearing race. This allows you to insert a punch or other makeshift tool(screwdriver) through the spacer tube into the notch and bang away! I didn't worry about it (bearing) and just drove the race out mine was mostly gone anyway. Hope that helps.
D
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Checking my rear caliper, I was looking at the sealed bearing right next to the caliper bracket. Sure it's sealed, but wondering if being exposed to so much road dirt doesn't affect it at all. AFAIK, there's also nothing between the alu caliper bracket and this bearing (the only large washer is under axle nut, the other end protects the needle bearing). Did any anybody think of somehow protecting the bearing other than keeping its surface reasonably clean?
I make it a habit of checking that bearing (all wheel bearings) every time I change the tire. That left side rear bearing is prone to failure. I was left stranded in Ozark when I noticed the bike was handling funny (wobbly in corners). I looked down and could see the steel balls some missing inside the dry races. The outside seal was completely gone!
D
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Just a thought, is the affected fuel line (petcock to pump) S/S braided? Otherwise maybe that is an option? It won't give insulation of course, but reflection.
Mine (2000) is ss braided. I swapped the pump filter location. Did not wrap the line (shortened to fit better). No more problems with V. L.
Wrapping with H Hose could do the trick and is easier.
Later
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When my '04 Coppa Italia sits in the garage for a day or so gas drips from the overflow tube,which exits under the engine.
If I open the gas cap and leave it cracked, the flow stops. Any ideas?
If the Garage is heating up, could be a little pressure build up in the tank (full)? and making it's way to the overflow. This would only occur if the vent side is blocked. Easy enough to check. Doesn't quite add up. I would start with the tank vent.
Good luck
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Definetly Vapor Lock.
Lots of info on this subject.
Easy fix
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I'm running 0.006/0.008, but it's been almost exactly 4000 miles. I'll give the lash a check before I change the plugs.
Docc, I would check the valves for sure. Back when mine was running bad I didn't check the valves because I had done recently. After taking the bike to MPH. I was surprized when they said the biggest problem was the exhaust valves to tight! Oxygen sensor was out too. MPH just started from scratch and re-tuned the entire bike. It runs great with the one exception being when the engine is hot it can stumble from high rpm's down to idle. This could be the timing chain tensioner that has been discussed.
Good luck
D
2011/2012 Stelvio
in Newer models
Posted
I don't believe 471 lbs on a Stelvio. More like 571... The BMW is lighter than the Stelvio.