Karl Von
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Posts posted by Karl Von
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O Maddys might be tough for everyone to get in to on a Saturday and they have very limited parking (what is available on the street). As a back up there is a great place just south of the skyway bridge right on the water. Woodys in Ellington. Great food and craft beer and lots of parking for bikes. http://woodysriverroo.com
Also just off the skyway is Ft Desto park which has been rated the #1 beach in the US, there is also the old army fort and artillery battery you can tour. The fort was in operation from 1861-1923. The ride out to the Fort & beach is nice, Once off the main road, it is just nature, no hotels, gas stations or condos.
On the end of the tour, the Dunedin Brewery is a great stop. Florida's oldest Micro Brewery and they do make some great beer.
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Hi Guys
I have updated our COMA Club page. There are lots of shots from the Guzzi national and other bike events. Enjoy
Classic Old Motorcycle Association COMA
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Hi EveryoneMy brother has a 01 Lemans with the fuel pump under the tank. While at the national rally, we ran into a guy with a lemans with the fuel pump located above the oil cooler. This seems to fix all the vapor lock problems. He said the last lemans models, with an external fuel pump, had them located out front. The oil cooler was lowered with the fuel pump on top, like a centauro. Has anyone tried to retro fit this ? I have looked through all the parts manuals but cannot find any reference to this change. I imagine you would need the oil cooler brackets, diffrent oil lines, longer fuel lines and an extinction on the pump electrical wires. Does anyone know where I can find the part numbers for the oil cooler brackets?
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Well the adjuster is telling him the bike is worth 4200 dollars. I told him to tell the insurance company to go and buy him a replacement for 4200 then. He is in South FLA and we do not even have a guzzi dealer in the state. He took it to a Italian bike shop down there and they are doing the write up on it. KBB had the Rosso at 5300 and with the magni fairing, power commander and extra carbon that might push the value to 6500 which is more realistic. I am not sure of the extent of the damage yet.
I few years back I had a issue with my 62 Triumph. The adjusters book only went back to 78, so that was the value he used. A 78 Bonnie is listed at 3500 dollars or so back then. I told them they were out of their mind. That is like comparing the price of a 62 vette to a 78 vette. I now have Hagerty on all my old stuff, so there is no issue with that anymore. I just hope he can save the bike. He lives in TN and works here in FL. I told him to see if TN issues salvage titles on totaled bikes. If they do total it, he may be able to buy it back
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My brother was sitting at a gas station in Miami when a crazed driver ran into his Rosso Mandello, while she was trying to get to a open pump. Is forks are bent. Does anyone know if any of the Aprilia froks can be swaped out with the V11 Sport forks. I thought I remember that some models shared the same front ends.
His front wheel for scared up, fender cracked, forks bend, clip-one bent and tank scratched !! She had insurance, be he is afraid they will total the bike, so he is trying to make a deal with them to keep the bike
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Hello All
I have a 98 centauro up for sale and the buyer wants to have it lowered as they are vertically challenged. Has anyone ever lowered the rear of a spine frame ? Would you need a shorter shock ? I have seen lowering links for Ducati's but nothing for a guzzi sport model.
Thanks
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another shot
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Have you ever thought about make a run of these fairings and selling them ? Here is a shot of the velo stack on my sport. I had a guy here in the US make some custom air filters for them. He makes them for vintage race engines with FI stacks. They do not look like much but they filter very well
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My brother Nick has #71
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Hey now you yanks should know what this is, never knew xxxxxx built such a thing and before Guzzi did it
There is a local collector who has one of the shaft drive Indians, he also has one of the flat twin Hds
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After putting some miles on the bike, I have notoced it has a bad surge or flutter around 3500 to 4500 rpm only if you hold it there. That is about the RPM that you used for in town running, 45 to 50 MPH in 3rd. I am going to take it back to the tuners to see if they can do something. It is at that range in the above print out where there is a huge dip in the curve.
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I will give this a try, it should do the trick. I am also going to see if this might work on my Cantauro
thanks
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For now we will leave the bike as it is, My brother wants to keep is stock, since one day it may be a collectable. A example is a local guy who had a 1000s small valve. He was wanting top dollar but it was all customized and missing the stock bits.
It seems to run fine and starts right up. Before it took forever to start and idles great. I think the problem was what the tech said about the bike being way to lean. I need to put a few more in town miles before I am 100% happy with it. The guys at Dynotune in Sarasota told me to see if there were any running issues and if so bring it back.
I thought the bike was surging when cruising but now I think it is a overly touchy light throttle. Just the slightest movement and it changes the engine speed, which makes it feel like the bike is surging. With the low clip-ons and running on all the tore up roads around Tampa your hands move the throttle a bit.
As for the big dip, they said they worked on that for a while but could not do anything with it. It is strange that the HP or the air-fuel line does not dip.
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Here is a print out of my brothers 2001 Rosso Mandello. The bike is all stock
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Well got the Rosso back from the tuners today and what a diffrence. He said the bike was running way to lean. It idles great now and does not bog down at 4500 rpm. There is a little surging around 3500 to 4000 but you only notice it if you keep the throttle there for a long time. The bike rides like a guzzi now !!
I have attached the dyno run.
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that sounds a little like the stumble/cough I had at 4200rpm... I put on a Mistral cross over and it went away completely.
Is you air cleaner flowing air or could there be a mouse nest in there?
The air cleaner is new and the fuel filter was replaced not long ago. When you are running on the road it is ok till you hit around 4500 rpm and it feels like it is bogging down. As soon as you get past it, it will pick up. I messed with it enough so it will idle now for a few mis, then it does the usualy sneezing fit and dies, then fires right back up. I am taking to sarasota fl to Dyno-Tune who is a PC tuner. They do allot of Duck racers. Maybe they can see what is going on whn they hook up and map the pc. I will let everyone know what happens
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I tired the 530mv at 1100 rpm and it would not even try to stay running. I set the tps back at 150mv with everything disconnected. I have the air screws out one turn and ballanced the throttle bodies with the thumb screws at 1100 rpm and checked it up the scale. It will idle great for about 30 sec then go into a sneezing fit and die. I am almost thinking it may have a bad ECU. My brother has had this bike for 4 years and never rode it much, it only has 11,000 miles. To me it has never run well.
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I tired the 530mv at 1100 rpm and it would not even try to stay running. This bike is cursed. With only 11,000 miles it had constant vapor lock (now fixed), a snapped rear end pinion shaft (now fixed), now this. I am now thinking it may have a bad ECU or something else. I have tuned a few centauro's and never had this much trouble. I can get it where it will idel great for about 30 sec, then go into a sneezing fit & die.
I know there are others besides me who couldn't get their V11's running right using the 150mV baseline. In my very limited experience setting the TPS to about 530mV at 1100rpm idle is much more important than the 150mV setting with all the links and stops backed off. It doesn't hurt to try it if the conventional method isn't working for you.Note that the step 6 idle trim adjustment mentioned above must be made with an Axeone tool or VDST software. It might be be a good idea to know what the idle trim is before getting a custom map made. I recall one member here who found that his trim was set to a maximum value which threw off his tuning efforts.
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I checked the valves and they were at 4 & 6, so I sat them to 6 & 8, I looked at the intake boot and did not see anything wrong. Still poping back through the right side. Going to check the tps again. I am trying to get a base line on this because he is having a power commander installed tomorrow and they are going to make a custom MAP. This bike has never really ran right since he bought it. It has always had a issue of poping back and dying at idle and around 4 grand it looses power till you get above that range. Hopefuly the PC will take care of these probloems. The bike is all stock, it is strange that we are having these issues.
Based on my experience with only my bike I say ignore the 150mV baseline, assuming that you don't have an intake leak. When I used that as a starting point there was no way I could get the bike to idle at around 525 mV. Eventually I used the "Micha method" to set my TPS and my bike runs better than ever.The method is:
Step one - Set your valves to world settings
Step two - Set your bleed screws to open 1 full turn
Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm)
Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only
Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (I forget what that translates to in mv..someone here will know)
Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero
from this thread:
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Hi All
I am helping my brother balance the throttle units on his Rosso Mandello. We have gone through the balance procedures and still have a issue. The left throttle unit keeps popping back. It will idle for a bit then go into this sneezing fit then die. You can see the flames come into the balance tubes I have set up.
From memory if it is popping back through the throttle unit or carb, it is lean. It is popping through the exhaust it is rich. I can have the air bypass closed and back it out up to 2.5 turns and it makes no difference.
I set the tps at 151. It was at 200 when we started. I have balanced the high speed run at 3000 rpm. The only other thing I can think of is the intake valve is too tight. Anyone else have any ideas?
It was doing this before we did the balance, but not as bad.
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Heres mine
He was sitting at a stop light and we all went to leave. I saw he was having trouble and notoced his drive shaft was spinning but the bike was not moving. Strange that it was two Rosso's that had the pinions snap. Maybe it was the sonic wave from the ratteling single plate clutch that broke it
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My thought exactly Dave. The forces exerted on the shaft and universals is enormous if the trunnions aren't alligned. It could be a manufacturing fault as well though.
Pete
The painted marks were lined up when I took it apart. My brother also, babied this bike, no burn outs, wheelies, etc.. I would say it was a defect. Maybe the same guys who are in charge of hardening the cams on the EVs & Griso did pinion shafts also ?
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Well, I finaly got around to swap out the rearend in my brothers Roso Mandello. He snaped the pinion at bike week. Here are the photos
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I while back I saw a thread about a tach replacement some guys were using. It was a aftermarket auto tach, maybe autometer.
Anyway I can not find the link. Does anyone know what tach was used ?
thanks
Tampa Bay, FL USA: baffi e chiecchiaroni
in Meetings, Clubs & Events
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Woody's is open till 2am on Sunday,