scottybee
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Posts posted by scottybee
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The last spring that broke on my bike was a Racecraft spring. I'd recommend the "improved" Guzzi spring as seen here:
http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=139
I've changed the spring twice now and I haven't used sealant on the cases either time since the factory didn't use any. No leaks yet
Tom
Thanks for the quick reply. I will order 2 of them asap.
Mine sure seemed to have some type of sealent on it ( black stuff ) I had a hard time getting it loose. But inside looks good, no metal shavings.
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Bonnie at (405)524 7223
- Request a "Moto Guzzi shifter spring." Cost is $12.50USD
Does anyone know if this is still a good source for new springs? Any other source's?
What should be used to reseal the plate to case?
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Where is the best place to get new springs? I read the FAQ. Is Hank Blackstock still making heavy duty springs?
I really don't like the idea of having to do this repeatedly.
Also what type of sealent do you put on the cover when reinstalling it?
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It looks like you've already removed the acorn nut and lock nut on the adjuster. It's the shaft with the slotted end next to the shifter shaft. If you moved the slotted shaft you'll have to adjust it when you get the bike back together. You can search past threads on this to find out what the adjuster does and how to set it. I remember forum member Ouiji Veck posting about his adventures with the adjuster. Search his name and "adjuster" and see if anything helpful turns up.
The shifter plate will come off once you've removed all of the M6 screws around the perimeter of the casting. Mine was pretty stubborn the first time I removed it. I found a spot toward the bottom rear of the trans where the shifter plate doesn't exactly match the shape of trans housing. It provided a surface that was large enough to catch with a wooden dowel from the other side of the bike. I put the dowel on there, gave it a tap with a hammer and the plate popped free.
Thanks Tom, Yes I did remove that acorn nut and the locking nut behind it. Hopefully then I haven't moved the adjuster.
Just looking at the cover I thought I needed to remove all those fastener's as it doesn't look like it would slide over them. So I'm guessing these things pull out with the cover.
I read the post's on FAQ about repairing or replacing the spring. But they all started after the cover was removed.
I'll put those adjuster nuts back on before I take the cover off and hope it hasn't moved.
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Well I'm finally getting around to trying to repair this thing, and I'm stumped already. I've taken the statrer off and have all the allen head bolts out. But the two 13mm nuts right in the center of the cover are turning the bolt or stud and not coming loose. I can't see anyway to hold those bolts to get the nuts off.
How do I get this thing off to see what's going on inside?
I'm talking about the two nuts in the center of the pic
Thanks
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On my way home from work at 11:30 pm. After down shifting from 6 to 1 for stop sign I was stuck in 1st. All the linkage seems to be ok, the lever moves up and down but just doesn't shift. I'm guessing it's the pawl spring failure, I glanced over some pf the old post's and will read them more closely when I'm actually ready to make repair's (to many other things going on the next few days) Just wanted to see if anyone has any other idea's or suggestions I should consider.
My bike is a 2003 LeMans.
Thanks
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I like it Ben.
Do you know the air filter model number off hand? I put on a set of Sport Cycle Pacific pods but I don't like the foam Uni filters.
Also like the look of those mufflers.
Scott
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I Have the Exhaust system off my bike right now and I don't have any sort of gasket on the header to cylinder head connection. I know alot of bikes use a copper ring thats gets crushed when it's tightened down. Is there supposed to be anything here?
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Thanks Guy's I think I will leave the nipple's on (I'd lose them ) and put a single hose or a couple rubber plugs on there.
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On my 03 LeMans the hose going from one intake to the other has a T in the center with another hose attached then that hose is capped off with a bolt.
This obviously was done by the previous owner. So if it is capped off then why even have the T at all? I assume this is some sort of a breather hose to help equalize air between the intakes. Is it supposed to have a vent hose? Can I just replace it with a solid hose from one side to the other?
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Thanks for the info Paul. Thats what I was hoping to hear.
I was also hoping to get a reply from You and/or Pete Roper since I had read alot of the old post's from both of you guy's and you obviously have a wealth of knowledge on all things motorcycles, especially Guzzi's. 
And thanks to Jaap for starting and maintaining this site, it has been absolutely essential to me keeping my Lemans.
Thanks to all!!!
Scott
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Some type of sensor or sending unit? It's right on the back of the transmission next to clutch bleeder. Previous owner had it covered with foil, so I've just left it on there.
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Some additional pics.
I would sure like to get this thing back together so if anyone knows if I can use this spacer as is or if I have to try and find a new one I would really appreciate any advice.
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My front wheel bearings felt a little rough when turning by hand so I decided to replace them. I looked at all the threads about removal and the spacer issues.
I tried driving one in to push the other side out as suggested in one old post. But as I could see after finally getting them out, thats impossible with my wheel because the bearing seat in the wheel is much smaller than the OD of the bearing. I should say that I have a 2003 LeMans with the hollow front axle. So the only way I could see to get them out was from an old post from Carl Allison to remove the brake rotor to access the 3 slots in the wheel and use a long thin screwdriver to drive one out. I thought that I was driving against the outer race of the bearing but apparently I was driving against the flange on what I'm guessing is what is called the spacer. So that flange is destroyed , driven completely off the spacer. So my question is. Do I really need that flange to be there?
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I don't want to open a big can of worms here, but i need tires and just want to see if anyone has used one of these tires and how you liked them. Performance , Longevity, problems with balancing or cupping any thing like that.
I'm almost 50 years old and 50 pounds overweight. So nobody has confused me with Valentino Rossi lately. But once in a while I get in the zone and lean over pretty good. So I want some grip but also some miles. Here are some I've been looking at.
I've run Avon venom's on my Valkyrie for years and haven't had any problems with them.
Dunlop D616 These look like they would be good in rain.
Metzler I've never had metzlers.
Well I hope this doesn't start a big debate like asking about oil filters or something. But I would appreciate all opinions.
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Sorry to hear, Scotty. I'd be sincerely interested in knowing if they had a recommendation for you RE: service for the ITI?
No They didn't suggest anyone, but then I didn't ask either.
Have you tried Ebay for a used unit?
Not yet. but I will
Breakers/wreckers?
Good luck.
Thanks
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Just thought I'd ask once more.
The guy's at PA Speedo were not able to help, They work on the Veglia but not ITI.
So I think I'm probably S.O.L. on this but just wanted to see if anyone has any new info.
I'f I do have to buy a new one, how much are they and where can I get one?
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Well can anyone tell me if the older white face gauges and my black face's are interchangeable?
If so does anyone know where I can get a set?
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I've read a few older posts about this but just wondered if any one else has had same problem.
First the odometer was just going slow then quit completely.
Is there any way to repair it? How much is a new speedo? Where can I get one new or used?
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Will the ECU auto adj. at all? Will I be able to ride to a dealer (150 miles) to have the tps adjusted.
I would try it myself but I don't have this twinmax thing. to balance the TB's. I don't have valve cover gaskets on hand to do valve adj.
Can't I just put these babies on and go riding?
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[quote name='DeBenGuzzi'
yes those will affect your air/fuel mix more than any other mod, you'll need either a PCIII or a flashed ECU.
What is a flashed ECU? And how do I get one?
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I just installed a set of these guys:
from Sport Cycle Pacific
Is anyone running these filters with factory ECU and exhaust? Do I need to worry about running to lean?
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should have realized you meant that coupler, I hadn't had my coffee yet this morning. Thanks.
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I'm powering a Autocom communication system, (IPOD, Phone, Motorola FRS radio... one at a time).
I thought about running a wire from the battery with inline fuse. But there already 3 connectors on the battery and it's a pain to get the bolt started.
I don't know how that extra fuse could be used for a factory diagnostic device since it isn't connected to anything on the bike at this point.
Those springs keep on breaking
in 24/7 V11
Posted
Thanks Mate