nigev11
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Posts posted by nigev11
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PDoz
great tips mate, thanks heaps.
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Wow! You're right I think! Thanks kindly
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i think i have number 395 Rosso Mandello
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Hey all
I am giving the old girl a spring clean and a spruce up.
I cracked my screen and don't think i can get an original replacement.
Luckily, the beautiful carbon fairing is in perfect condition and now super clean.
While I was cleaning it I noticed an original sticker inside which gave me a very exciting clue; ser no. 395.
Now being part of the second batch mine isnt numbered (first 300 were specially numbered models I believe). However, the ser no on the screen made me wonder is this a clue to its heritage? I have no reason to believe the screen isn't 100% original being the third owner. I can see great logic in ATE numbering the fairings for guzzi and thus feel really confident this could suggest my model number? The frame and engine numbers do not have the same 395 designators anywhere however.
Any thoughts or clues?
BTW, the rebuild and spruce up have restored her former beauty and with a bit of spit and polish, a leather seat re-upholstery and a lot of polishing, Ill reluctantly be selling her very soon.
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I know im four years late, But i have a second edition model, pretty much original down under in Sydney. Carefully stored for the last year.
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Hi All
Long story short, I'm trying to locate (ideally) 2 carbon fairings as per my V11 Rosso Mandello original fitment. They are small, neat and headlight mounted.
Aftermarket is ok, but carbon is a must. I can have screen made if need be.
Any help much appreciated (tired googling and ebay'ing cant find anything)
nigev11
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Hi All
Long story short, I'm trying to locate (ideally) 2 carbon fairings as per my V11 Rosso Mandello original fitment. They are small, neat and headlight mounted.
Aftermarket is ok, but carbon is a must. I can have screen made if need be.
Any help much appreciated (tired googling and ebay'ing cant find anything)
nigev11
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My WHB says 80 Nm for the ones that goes into the timing chest. I use the same torque for the smaller ones, subframe-to-mainframe, because they are not seated in alu. Seems to work fine.
My book has some of the specs (like this 80 Nm one) on the page that describes the part in question, instead of listing it on the torque spec page. Maybe the V11 manual is the same?
Raz
cheers mate, much appreciated! The torque wrench is at the ready with anew set of bits; I'm off to the shed
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hey all
a long time ago, i learned the value of carefully tightening critical bolts to the correct torque values.
the manual has a list of them, but I cant find specs for the main frame/engine bolts, which to me would both suffer a lot of vibration and potentially upset handling and vibes if wrong.
Anyone know what the values for these bolts and nuts should be?
nigev11
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hey buzzard
I just did a 6000km ride Sydney to Alice Springs to Sydney and that desert night air was cooooooold. I bought some oxford heaters on the way back and they saved my life. I agree the buttons are fiddly
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looking for a lemans fairing to fit to my rosso mandello for touring; anyone got one? Condition unimportant
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FOLLOW UP; POST REPAIRS
hi all; just a quickie to let you knwo how it all panned out.
Roper kindly replaced the suspect outer needle bearing with alow cost non standard item. Slightly different length, no problem.
Refitted a replacement outer washer (was missing)
Fitted new wheel bearings (no problems)
Checked the cush drive; all perfect and clean and even came apart well. Drilled and greased the cush rubbers, replaced the brocken cush drive friction gasket, fitted s/s screws and anti seize paste. Got a new spindle (nyloc) nut from the local bolt shop for $2.40.
Re-assembled everything with plenty of lube and torques to the coorect setting of 120Nm.
Hey presto, good as gold.
Rear end feels notciably smoother and less harsh on changes. Free rotation is good and so, Im back on the road and will keep an eye on things but it feels great. Thanks for all your help!
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FOLLOW UP; POST REPAIRS
hi all; just a quickie to let you knwo how it all panned out.
Roper kindly replaced the suspect outer needle bearing with alow cost non standard item. Slightly different length, no problem.
Refitted a replacement outer washer (was missing)
Fitted new wheel bearings (no problems)
Checked the cush drive; all perfect and clean and even came apart well. Drilled and greased the cush rubbers, replaced the brocken cush drive friction gasket, fitted s/s screws and anti seize paste. Got a new spindle (nyloc) nut from the local bolt shop for $2.40.
Re-assembled everything with plenty of lube and torques to the coorect setting of 120Nm.
Hey presto, good as gold.
Rear end feels notciably smoother and less harsh on changes. Free rotation is good and so, Im back on the road and will keep an eye on things but it feels great. Thanks for all your help!
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spoke to a reputable local supplier yesterday on the spindle diameter issue. he reckons that they are SUPPOSED to have steps machined in them and thus, stop panicking. He coudlnt give me a dimension to check wear but commented he had never been asked to replace one before;ie stop whining, start riding.
ill take his advise
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savage henry; wow, good to know thanks; THE MANUAL IS WROMG THEN!!!!
Ill clean and grease the cush and repeat; whats the deal with drilling them? I couldnt find any references when I searched.
I agree on this site and you are right, I have gained heaps and owe some goodwill in return.
Mark; on the bearing i took the lazy/safe option and sent it to pete roper with instructions to give the whole drive a once over. Figure at 50k its probably wortha check anyway.
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hey
doing my rear end work, replacing bevel bearing i noticed my rear axle/spindle is worn. Cant find dimensions anywhere, any one know what it should measure in diameter?
Im getting anywhere between 19.69 and 19.95mm.
Second question on the axle torque
The relevant page showing diagram suggests 28-30Nm for the spindle nut, which seems very low to me.
HOWEVER, the torque table at the front of the manual says 120Nm for the "rear wheel spindle screw (housing side)"
Is this the rear axle or is it something else?
I note the front spindle value is 90-100 so it would be logical the rear is similar and not so low....
nigev11
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shit, that means id have a v11 rosso pontadero
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hey nice one guys
good news is got it all apart and evrything (except the bearing you guessed at) looks fine.
splines, my biggest worry, look good as new, no sign of wear that my aging eyes can see.
All other bearings look and feel good too.
So a few questions;
a) am i right that to get this bearing out i have to diassemble the whole box? not beyond me but i dont have the special tools and would prefer to trust the reshimming and re ass to someone with the set up, doing it regularly
see photo; im pointing at the culprit; should there be any type of shim or seal outboard of thisbetween the box and swingarm?? The housing kind of looks like it would take a shim or seal but nothing there...c)pheeeeewh
d)id be a (bigger) top of penis :-) not to replace all bearings, seals and gaskets while we are in there and after almost 50k kms woudlnt i. Yes you would. Uou are a top of penis :-) despite this.
nigev11
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nice one guiys, thansk for the feedback.
Ill go home, warn the wife and start pulling it apart.
nigev11
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sorry if this posts twice...
fiddling around i noticed my (01 rosso mandello) rear bevel drive seems to be way to loose or sloppy.
If i grab it, I can rattle it laterally in pretty much any direction by a couple of mm, with a disconcerting little clonking noise.
Intuition tells me its too much movement to be healthy and would cause all sorts of stresses and misalingment
Im guessing maybe ive omitted the spacer washer, overloaded the bearings and wrecked them; otherwise they should pevent the bevel drive from moving around the axis of the axle; right? Im also assuming this is horrendous for the spline wear/alingnment and not great for the cardan.
FWIW, its almost 9 months since last rear wheel removal and not a hint of noise or losseness has been perceptable. Only clue is i DID notice a little rust stain dripping down from below the axle over the bevel box a couple of wash's back, thats what got me poking....
a) can a couple of you go out and wobble yours to see if any movement is perceptable?
read lots of posts couldnt find any such other stories; clues?c) thank god for this forum!!!
d)this coudl be very bad, right?
nigev11
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beinga slack pig i just re-checked mine after almost 17000 trouble free kms.
There were still within 0.01mm.
gotta luv a tracta donk
nigev11
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agree with you all. Living down under, it seesm we predominantly got the later batch with no numbering. Mine has no eagle onthe seat cowl either. FWIW, the sidecovers are horribly prone to cracking (brittle plastic cantilereved mount). Last time o got mine fixed and painted again, i stashed them away for ever. I reckon they look better without the covers anyway
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hey all; aware and have read a number of posts on this subject.
So, duly purchased a set of speed bleeders.
In getting the old bleed nipple out, I noticed it was NOT tapered (?!) but instead was flat on the end with a noticable concave indent. Gulp.
I managed to create a small magnet and sure enough dug out a ball bearing which it was obviously seating on.
1) This is surely not standard?
2) When i fitted the SB, it wasnt long enough
3)refitted the standard set up
4)comments / help?!!!
nigev11
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ok this is very confusing because:
a)my surname is also morris
B)i am suitably qualified to be a sod
c)i also have an 01 rosso mandello
d)i live in australia
e) i have had the same symptoms (being a sod and the hiccup)
Having said all this, i have previsouly posted a few strings onthis same topic, had tuning dramas and replaced a TPS.
Ultimately, pete roper (aka "the wizard" from motomoda) fixed it by simply tuning it right. DO NOT try to get it running right by assuming teh factory TPS settings are necassarily right. After tuning/riding/tuning/riding pete ultimately settled ona non standard setting for mine which al but eleimiated this propensity. Symptoms were identical.
Having said this, it coudl of course be relays or valves ( or temp sensor) but my ride is not perfect and is 100% stock so the fact we got it right shows it is possible. Ive spoken to many owners whos uffer the same fate and IM convinced that (for whatever reason and it may be a set of symptoms although ive heard of it on brand new and older FI bike) they are a bit prone to it. Factory settings and guzzi "service centres" almost all struggle with this issue; recently witnessed a place at mona vale struggling with the excat same issue ona 100km old bike recently on a dyno! I also seriously considered a Jerriereis myecu which by all accounts (and logically) improves things quite a lot allowing more tuning capability. Stringely, i met a fellow on the way back from Phillip Island also from Quneensland also with a rosson mandello and he had amyecu fitted with all the options; was very happy
My suggestion would be speak to pete and try adjusting the tps/tuning i reckon thatll do it.
NOw, having said all this, i will close with the fact that mine still occasionally misses, pops or stutters. But its so infrequent and predominantly when im commuting in heavy traffic and i cant help thinking we are asking too much of an air cooled 1100 to expect it to beperfect in a wide range of consitions, much as it would be nice.
good luck!
New V11 Owner - Rosso Mandello?
in 24/7 V11
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Love the Rosso! Mines almost finished being spruced up after a hibernation; 100% original just love that very special mica red