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mfeeney

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Posts posted by mfeeney

  1. I've a 2004 V11 Lemans with titanium mufflers, individual foam air filters and Hot Grips. Also installed are aftermarket clip-ons that do not take the factory end weights. To abate the hand grip vibration I've poured lead into each clip-on to eliminate the vibration I get at 4000 rpm and above. That has not helped very much and still cannot ride more than two hours w/o my right hand going numb. I'm close to selling the bike unless I can solve this problem. Please help if you have an idea.

     

    mfeeney

  2. I had an incident the other day where the bike just stopped. The battery was dead. I replaced it with a spare one and everything was fine but then I checked to see if the charging system was funcitoning, it wasn't. I had AC voltage at the alternator but no DC at the battery. I found that if you follow the two yellow wires of the alternator output you come across a pair of banana connectors, then about 10 cm of more yellow wire up to a 2 blade connector that goes to the voltage regulator. This section from the two banana plugs to the two blade connectors had completely deformed from heat and was shorting the whole circuit. I cut out the melted section and including the banana plug and re-connected the voltage regulator. The charging system works now charging a 14v.

     

    mfeeney

  3. THANKS!!!

     

     

    I bought a needle nozzle that worked very well, and easy, using the method stated as the start of this thread, and was very inexpensive to boot. Lincoln Industries, Needle Nozzle, Model 5803. You can visit their website, I got it at my local Farm & Fleet for $8.00. I'm sure if you can't find this one or a similar one, you could always buy one on line from McMaster-Carr, an industrial supply company that has anything you could think of. Bought the sheet of ABS plastic that I made my rain shields from when I removed my rear tire hugger, and all the stainless steel I used to make a crankcase breather valve.

     

     

     

    Thanks for the confirmation, will do it the "right way" when I do a major servicing at the end of this season. Greg, it is really something to have folks of your caliber/reputation just popping in to help us jokers. A true testment to both this site, and the Guzzi community in general. :thumbsup: Thanks to all (ESPECIALLY Jaap),S.H. :notworthy::mg::wub:

  4. Chris; What is the brand of the grease coupler in the rest of the known world? Certainly North America must have a version. I too cannot get to the uni-joint to grease it.

    mfeeney

     

     

    I have never found a thread in this forum telling me how to grease the front uni without taking out the swing arm. This has been giving me the shits for years. Today I finally figured out how to grease the front uni joint on my Ballabio and then managed to let it fall over and crease one of the Titanium pipes.

    1. Go buy a 12" long McNaught (KZLNS) or similar needlepoint coupler grease attachment. About $50 in Australia. This will also grease the rear uni with no problems.

    2. take off the rear wheel and the bevel box.

    3. Get under the rear of the bike and rotate the shaft so the nipple is facing down (not up as I keep reading)

    4. Hold up the tail shaft

    5. Grease away. It goes in no problems.

     

    I don't read every thread on this site so I may be stating the obvious already. I'm off to "crack a stubby" or two, as they say in the filums, after finally realising how to deal with one of the most ridiculous maintenance engineering designs I have ever come across in my life. This was fast becoming the 'achillies heal' of an other wise perfect alternative to owning another maintenance disaster, a Ducati.

    I like to service from the comfort of a deck chair.

    Regards

    Chris Morini

  5. :wacko:

     

    I've a 2004 Lemans and when it is warmed up the clutch does not completley disengage. This is most noted when stopped and you are tying to find neutral or shift into first gear. I replaced the clutch master cylinder and used a hand vaccum bleeder tool with no results. Anyone have some ideas? If I must change the slave cylinder it appears that the engine must be moved forward one to two inches. Comments? Thanks in advance.

     

    mfeeney

  6. I've found a simple tool on the internet that appears to give you the trouble codes (blink codes) that are stored in your ECU and I want to buy one. The information I have calls it a "check lamp" and it plugs into the wiring harness near the ECU. My 2004 Lemans has this plug and it has a plastic cover over it. The page on the net gives it a part number of (00 97 00 00). I've called several MG dealers and no one has heard of it. All they know about is the $1000 software tool that has all of the attachments and CDs for tuning.

     

    It appears to be a simple LED with a 3 wire connector. Any advise will be appreciated. :nerd:

     

    mfeeney

  7. I have 7K on my V11 now. Since buying the bike the bolt that holds the steering damper in place backed out. I pulled over and fixed that. Last night I notice that the handle bar (it's a Coppa Italia) mount was quite loose. Another nut that worked its way loose. I assume this is due to vibration. I will tighten that one tonight.

     

    My question is this. Do I need to start checking all the various nuts and bolts for tightness? Does anyone else have these issues and, if so, can you recommend a procedure for checking these i.e. which nuts and bolts give the most problems and need checking and how often?

     

    Thanks.

     

    There are 9k on my Lemans and all bolts seem to remain tight. I use the V11 manual's guide to torque for each. I check them all regularly. The correct torque will help keep them tight plus a lock washer if required.

  8. Couldn't use throttlemeister myself as I have bar-ends. Greg from MI set me up with a cheapo - ~$20 nylon throttle lock that I love. It's designed for a yamaha fits next to the grip and operates with a flip-lever. Works like a champ, easy to use and install and the only complaint I have is the positioning - the lever is a bit high for easy thumb flipping but then I don't accidentally engage or dis-engage. A winter project will involve crafting a do-hicky to rotate it down a bit. Don't have batteries for the camera but can post a pic this weekend.

     

    I'd like to see a pic. I bought a Visa-Cruser friction type unit that needs to be sanded down to 4mm thickness in order to "fit". Still not sure if it will work. If you've a better idea I'd like to see it. My right hand gets numb after a bit!

     

    mfeeney

  9. Brian; I've the same issue which I noted in this forum a few months ago. My 2004 Le Mans (8500 mi) does this at 3000 rpm regularly once it is completely warmed up. I think it is an electrical problem. The bike has MG Titanium exhaust with the accompanying ECM installed. I was going to try the stock ECM to see if this made a difference. Since you have the same problem I do not think it is a loose ground problem. Sorry that I cannot offer a fix at this time only simpathy!

     

     

     

     

     

    quote name='BrianG' date='Aug 23 2007, 06:54 AM' post='127429']

    OK... I'm stumped.

     

    I have recently acquired a part throttle hiccup that is pretty pronounced and VERY annoying. It almost feels like a backfire, and it is ruining the quality of the MG ride!

     

    It occurs while at very low throttle opening and is most pronounced between 2000-3000 RPM.

     

    This, together with a very poor idle quality, motivated me to do a "tune-up" last week-end, where I found the valve lash way too tight (0.0015/0.002). Rectifying that smoothed the idle out fine, and elevated the idle speed to about 1500+ RPM. I set the idle speed down to 1000+ RPM and sync'd the throttle bodies. That looked good. I did not set the TPS, or ign. timing, figuring that these items would be unlikely to have changed since the last setting a year ago.

     

    I'll check those 2 items this coming week-end, but I'm canvasing the Guzzisti here to see if there is any consensus on the origin of this irritating hiccup thing that I've never experienced before.

     

    Any ideas? :huh2:

  10. I'm a newbie to the Moto Guzzi culture and need some diagnostic help. A 2004 V11 with 8000 mi has an misfire between 2-3000 rpm under light throttle. No other symptoms or issues. This is an intermitant situation. I've replaced the spark plugs and inspected the high voltage wires with no clues. It is equipped with the M-G titanium pipes and the newly mapped ECU that goes with them.

     

    mfeeney :homer:

  11. :rasta::oldgit::rasta: I'm located in the San Francisco area and wish to buy a 2003 Le Mans. Since I'm new to the Guzzi family I do not need a fixer-upper! I would appreciate any leads or responses that can help me find one. I'm a new member since Feb 07.
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