earemike
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Posts posted by earemike
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You might get a deal on some old stock Guzzi Ohlins (I've a set but I'm to far away from you).
Another option is to shim the Aprilia Ohlins in the Guzzi triples. I know they are usually narrower in the top yoke but think both Aprilia & Ducati external diameters can be found smaller or same as Guzzi.
ie your Guzzi 54/54 would take an earlier Duc fork from a 916/996/Monster ect 54/50?
Of course there are arguments both ways for shiming but it's an option.
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Awesome!
LeMans is the next bike on my want list...
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I think you could search for some Buel pegs, or if you wanted to spend big you can still get rearsets.
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Daytona 1100,
what's that?
I assumed that's a Daytona RS...
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I've probably got the stock Daytona 1000 airbox in the shed but if you've got it sorted already I won't poke around...
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Early 90's this debate was all the rage for the 600cc blokes with various factory fitments. I always preferred the 120/70. I can't remember if it was from personal experience but always thought the 120/70 was more forgiving on suspension setup (it could have just been better suited to the suspension set up I had...). On a heavier bike (& the road) I'd assume the 120/70 would soak up the minor bumps while still allowing excellent feel.
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OK it's not a V11...
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2
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When I ordered my last cable I was told there were two types, one le mans, one ballabio/cafe sport
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I can't directly compare but *think* I can come close, I have a Scura & a Ballabio.
The Scura steers lightning fast compared to the billy bob, apart from a minor effect from a change in position & me slipping the forks through I think the different feel is from the rear Ohlins which should be 10mm longer. This lifts the rear & completely changes the feel of the bike. If you ride both you should notice one is higher straight away, heck I can see the difference with both bikes side by side under the carport.
As for the Scura's clutch, yes there have been issues but my motor feels sweeter, she spins up easier (but to be fair there's been other minor mods).
As the ohlins forks are an easy rebuild and most suspension blokes could do the rear in their sleep I'd vote for the Cafe Sport with one proviso.
Put the $2.5k savings aside for possible future engine work. You could strip the motor & send the component parts to europe for work/assesment, I've looked into some work involving heads/pistons/cylinder/crank & of course rods. If you're happy to do assembly yourself you can do it at reasonable cost.
Of course if you want the Ballabio I have some brand new factory Ohlins here but given the $4k euro price they used to have I'd need at least $2.5K aud, which will put you in Scura territory.
Did I mention how much I love my Scura? Maybe he could cut you a deal on your next Italian love affair!
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Regarding the wiring, you said "Used the existing tacho pulse/power/earth (yellow/black, red/black?, black) and it was a sinch, so really happy."
Just to confirm, since we are using the yellow tach wire off the Moto Guzzi ECU, my instructions said to place a resistor between it and 12+ power. Did you put that resistor in?
My gauges are all wired up and seem to work, but I can't fire my bike up for another few months until I get the new tank painted etc... so I don't know if the tach is actually working.
What pulse number did you set the tach to, to get the correct RPM?
Joe
Oh wow Joe, I hadn't dropped in on your build thread, fantastic!
I like the blue illumination on the gauges, nearly went shift lights myself, they'll be great when she's on the road.
I'll be searching your thread & maybe asking some questions when I reconfigure mine, I slapped in the gauges after the second cable broke but this one needs to come off the road later.
As for the resistor, jesus Joe you gave me a heart attack! I assumed the pick up was fit for purpose. Should ask if the resistor is necessary? If the original and aftermarket tach both take an ECU feed then (in theory) Moto Guzzi should have already protected the ECU from a surge. Then again if the Guzzi tach had a built in resistor I need to get soldering! (Thanks for that!).
Pulse number is 2 to get the correct RPM, that was my first guess as she's a twin with two coil packs (but it turns out that's the setting for the ECU feed too) & the idle and test ride were consistent with the ITI's.
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That looks really top notch. I looked at the speed hut gauges after Kiwi Roy did his. Yours is about what I was going to do
but I swear I read where the gauges were not water proof. Are yours? That was the reason I did not do it.
I sometimes get caught in a real frog strangler and would hate to ruin the gauges.
Yeah you're correct, they say they're not waterproof but if you specify use for a motorcycle they said they add a bead of silicone. I think their website mentions gauge fogging as a possible issue, the silicone used to reduce the chance not stop it. Apart from the fact I'm down under and shouldn't have fogging issues I've occasionally had my tach fog while my old RSV used to for when it saw a cloud! Riding should be fine but if you park in the weather OUCH.
They offer a 5 year warranty with lifetime on the circuit board so I'd be more worried about the inconvenience of the gauge fogging.
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Just wanted to say thanks, blew the same fuse twice & it came down to the heavy earth wire behind the gearbox.
I just gave it a quick clean & it's a quick fix, another job on the list for when she gets pulled down.
Cheers
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Thanks felix.
I'm not sure what you mean foto, I supplied the custom artwork? I could have tried to balance the tacho space better but figured it was too easy to get wrong.
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Thanks docc,
I went with the GPS speedo in the end so that was straight forward, placed the sender in the rear hump & she seems to work a treat.
I wanted to wire it nicely but am about to put up a bigger shed so I used the existing wiring connections which kept it simple.
Used the existing tacho pulse/power/earth (yellow/black, red/black?, black) and it was a sinch, so really happy.
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Hi all,
finally got around to fitting my custom speedhut gauges & thought I'd share.
Cheers,
Mike
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50k on mine... aint touched it, have how ever done a fork seal twice. Ya right it does ned doing regually just to dear here and Id have to send it to the other island.
My local bloke (Adelaide) was charging $99 plus seal if required, figure that's a reasonable price.
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Hey , Pete, trying to make sense of that date . . .
January six? 2014?
That is correct
the rest of the world puts the month first
Rest of the world?!?
Think you'll find it more than half the world
Then again, I can only site South America, parts of Europe and of course NZ & AUS from experience.
Maybe it's part of your mob not doing it the colonial way? (Or did the colonists put you up to it before abandoning it?)
mmmmm slopage sheet....
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The following might help:
Some modify an existing fitting or use a needle fitting.
I'm not a success story when it comes to this %^&$!
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I'm guessing you want a pad part number (pads should fit a range of euro bikes with brembo stoppers) however if you also need seals I had success via my Yamaha dealer, just rang them and asked for seals for a 2006 R1 LE. Saved me time and cash as Ducati & Guzzi dealers are thin on the ground down here.
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Strongly recommend you replace the plastic fuel fittings with metal (at least the one on the inside). My bike was done when I got her so I can't say where it cam from (looks solid) but a quick search should turn up some after market BMW fittings which should suffice.
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Thanks all for the input, emailed a pic off to Ed in case it was of interest.
I recently purchased the bike, no mention of a seal replacement. It's possible I didn't notice hairline cracks however I've not had the wheel off during my ownership & the tyre is due for replacement. Given this I'd have hoped no-one has touched it for a few thousand km.
It occurred to me a small rock/object may have lodged in there (scrape marks on the steel plate) however I'd have thought that would be an outside chance at best. I'd have gone with hairline cracks however the break in the alloy looked fresh.
Hence my seeking the knowledge of the forum.
In the short term JBWeld may be my friend!
Cheers,
Mike
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Hi all,
has anyone had experience with my suffering in the image below? I've not had the bike long however it seemed well looked after so this sudden occurence has taken me by surprise.
Cheers,
Mike
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If you want OEM seals don't forget the 2006 Yamaha R1 LE ran ohlins forks with the same seals. Apart from being cheaper getting them through a Yamaha dealer (in my neck of the woods) was also much quicker than the regional Guzzi shop.
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Hi all,
if you know of any second hand sets of rims going for the V11 could you nudge me in the right direction please.
If there aren't any going around second hand I'll have to bite the bullet & pull the trigger on a new set IF manufacturers can be bothered getting back to me.
I'm still having an internal debate about the aluminium vs magnesium issue.
Thanks for your help,
Mike
V11 Ballabio running woes after dealer service
in Technical Topics
Posted
Hi all, seeking guidance on running issues.
My Ballabio has pod filters and staintune exhausts with the stock crossover and original balance pipe headers. When I first bough it it had the standard airbox and ran badly at just over 3k rpm, changing to the pods did not make much difference. At idle the bike was great to about 3,200-3,300 rpm where it coughed and spluttered however rolling the throttle on further the response was crisp. If I avoided that narrow rpm range the bike was a gem.
Last week I decided to have the dealer service my bike, hoping they would be able to update the ECU map as I assumed this might have contributed to the strange running behaviour. Unfortunately when they finally got the axone to work they reported there was no new map to update to.
The dealer did the TPS, valves and throttle bodies and then tried to remove the rough running at around 3,200rpm. They successfully removed the running problem in this rev range however introduced two new issues.
1. The bike now stumbles & stalls at idle, is harder to start and smells rich on start up.
2. Over 4000rpm acceleration is not as crisp and holding revs (especially over 5000rpm) the engine splutters however this only happens when holding the throttle & rpm steady.
Right now I'd be much happier if they can put it back how it was but thought I'd ask if anyone could give us some guidance.
My only other clue is the mechanic said the CO2 was "way out", originally at -200 I *think* he said he moved it close to zero.
Any advice greatly appreciated, if you've a good map on a v11 with pipes & pods and are happy to share I could also try swapping out the map. I don't understand how tuning out a bad "flat spot" could have such a negative effect on running and would like to understand what the heck is going on.
Thanks,
Mike