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huub

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Posts posted by huub

  1. Is this the only time the charge light comes on? Sounds like its something to do with the way the reg triggers the light. Please not this is a super rough explination. But to trigger a charge warning light the obious electrical componet to use is a diode this requires a higher voltage at one end for it to switch on providing a earth to the light. The actual voltage it triggers at can be adjusted buy the use of resistor, Your problem might be simply you battery is in very good condition (and possibly you leave it on trickle charge a lot of the time) So with the minor load the "surface voltage" is high enough for the diode not to trigger. When you load the system with something like a headlight without the motor charging it drags the voltage to below the trigger and the light illuminates. If this is you only problem i really wouldn't worry about it ihave been running an 1100 sport with a Accel regulator for a harley davision it has no facility for a charge light I haven't missed it ethier.

     

    I like this explanation, because everything is quite normal then...

  2. I added a real-time charging status indicator to my 2001 V11 just to see when the thing is charging (it is one LED and shows three different states in 3 different colors). Let me tell you it is an eye opener. My V11 (at least) is constantly running on the ragged edge of maintaining a charge. I really do not get a solid "green" (charging well) unless I am over 4K RPM's. Sometimes when I run around town on the bike, I never get it up to that RPM and ride is a net negative as far as charging. Turn on an accessory (heated vest is my only one) and the loading impact is *immediate* and will cause you to get an on/off switch for the accessory right away. Let me put is this way: the turn indicators affect my charging status below 4K RPM. My battery is an Oddyssey etc.

     

    Bob

     

     

    Mmm, sounds weird. That thing should be charging about 2k RPM's? But you have learned to live with it?

     

    Where did you get that real-tme indicator thing?

  3. The light gets it earth from the reg then logically the earth for the reg is a bit average. The regulators use the case and it mounting bolts for its earth ensure there is metal to metal contact and things are free of corrosion also check your main battery earths again clean and tight a good metal to metal contact. The other thing you can do is get the mutimeter on volts withnthe ectrical system on (engine doesn't have to be running) and see if there is a voltage drop between the two earths. ie they minght not be grounded to the same ground and over the years the bolts between the frames have corroded and don't quiet conduct as they once did. If there is a difference between them try running a earth lead between the reg case and the negative terminal of the battery.

     

    Thx for the reaction. I have a new Silent Hektik voltage regler, that has a wire for grounding. So it's not the housing of the regulator that gives ground as with the original from ducati. Also when I put this wire directly to the minus pole of the battery, there's no charging indicator light...

     

    Only when I put the lights on or something, so that the voltage of the battery is lowering, the charging light suddently appears (when the bike is not running).

  4. Did read all the stuff here, and I'm happy not to be alone with electrical problems. :huh: I'm trying to solve a problem with my charging indicator. The strange thing is that that indicator doesnt show up if I turn the key. But when I put on the headligts or use the brake on the same moment the charging indicator light suddently comes up. When I start the engine, the indicator is going out again as it should be and the battery is charging. I've put on another voltage regulator, but that did not solve the problem.

    T

    he charging indicator has two wires. The blue wire goes to the regulator. When you turn on contact, this wire should give ground. But I measure 12.8 volt. Anyone an idea?

     

    I did buy a second hand wiring harness on ebay, to solve this and all the other problems I had in the past, but there should be an explanation

  5. I assume this has the same circuitry as a Jackal. If so the bulbs share a common ground, with the voltage regulator blue/white wire turning the bulb on/off.

    I'm too lazy to get up and look.

     

    The charging bulb gets his ground from the regulator, so this not the same ground as the other dashboard bulbs.

  6. Again some electrical problems with my v11 sport from 2000. And a very strange one!

     

    When I switch on the ignition of the bike, the charging indicator light doesn't show up. Then, when I put on the lights or use the brake, the indicaor shows up after a little while. After I have starten the bike, the indicator does go out again, as it should be. And the machine is charging.

     

    I have already checked all the wirings, but couldn't find anything that looked suspicious to me. I already changed the battery and put another voltage regulator on, but that didn't help either. Changed some relays, also didn't work. I made an alternative connecition with another bulb (between the blue wire of the regulator and ground), but the same thing happens.

     

    Somebody any ideas about this strange behavior of my bike???

  7. I have just had a similar "no start" issue with my 2000 V11. It would sometimes after a long run refuse to start - this would then cure itself magically after about 5 minutes sometimes with the bike just sitting, sometimes with me quietly swearing at the bike or fiddling with relays and fuses.

    This got worse about 3 weeks ago and I had to trailer it back home 50 miles to fiddle as nothing seemed to fix it. I thought I had isolated the problem to a bad injector relay which I then changed to a GEI one and the problem was gone for a couple of weeks.

    The problem returned last week - I spent all day Saturday on it and found that the spade clips under the relay blocks were loose in the block and pushing back out of the block instead of engaging tightly on the male spade of the relay as the relay was pushed in - hard to pick as the blocks are tight up against the side of the tail body work. When I had fitted the new relay I must have just made enough contact to keep it running for a couple of rides till it vibrated away again.

    I have now ordered a new set of the slide together relay blocks to fit up and see if I can fix the problem for good along with crimping the spring sides of the female connectors down well as I refit them - I just thought it was worth mentioning in case this is another culprit in your problem ?

    Good Luck !!

     

    I'm back on the road again. How's your v11-problem?

  8. This ecu MAY have failed due to a bad input (tps,css,etc.) or output (ign.coil,etc..) device. Get and look at a wiring diagram and understand what is going on. I hope you understand how to use an ohmeter to test these circuits and devices.

    This ecu might or might not have failed due to outside influences. You do not want to install another ecu and have it fail upon tuning the key on.

    If you need help contact me and I will try to help.

     

    I checked all the sensors in the circuit, they have all the right values. What can I check on the output?

  9. Send the duff ECU to Cliff to convert it to a My15m. No more dodgy ECU problems and full adjustablity to boot. Then you can even get it to idle nicely. Yes it will cost you but, so does all the chasing about on ebay.

     

    Who is Cliff? Sounds good anyway.

  10. You might like to test the new ECU first in another bike before you put it into yours.

     

    I once had a Ducati 900 ECU at hand and in my V11 and I even drove around with it a bit. Lean but working.

     

    Hubert

     

    Mmm, I thought of that too, but also doubting if it was necessary. But now I hear this, I certanly do!

  11. In case you want to play a little more, you could try establishing that the ECU connector has 12V on whatever pins it's supposed to, like pin 17 regardless of ignition, and pin 26 with ignition on. And with ignition off, check resistance between ECU connector ground (pins 23 & 24) and battery ground. All this could be measured with the ECU disconnected.

     

    Also, with ECU connected and ignition on, you could check whether you have 5V output to the TPS. If you have, at least SOMETHING works inside that box...

     

    Thx, you look like someone who knows what he's doing with the ecu's!

     

    I went with both the ducati ecu and my own v11 ecu to the dealers, to test them in a bike of his. With both ECU's no running fuelpump. So my ECU is broken down (tested it now into two bikes) and I don't trust the ducati ECU either (tested it also on two bikes). So that one is going back.

     

    I bought one on ebay now, from a V11. That one should work! Let you know when I got it.

  12. He just did that, and it didn't run.

     

     

    Agreed, you can't just put any ECU in any bike even if it looks the same. I'd guess it should prime though.

     

    If you have means to try a known good V11 ECU in your bike, that would be the next.

     

    I didn't expect the bike to run with the ducati ecu, but I hoped the fuelpump would run. The ecu is exacly the same as a v11 one, an IAW15M, only the software on it is different. I'll try the dealer to do some measurements.

  13. Yeah, I know. But second hand they are affordable, better than no firing...

     

    Very strange this ecu-thing. Checked my ecu in another v11 and also that bike was not running. So I thought it's the ecu, stupid!

     

    But then I bought a second hand one from a ducati monster and put it on my bike. But no running! Grr. Maybe this one is also broken down (I can change it), but that's curious.

     

    So something els is wrong too. Checked all the sensors, all ok. Checked the ground cables, ok too.

     

    Sell the bike? Shout at him / her? Maybe i should check the ecu at the dealer's.

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