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sharperdill

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Posts posted by sharperdill

  1. The first thing you need to know is the diameter of the portion of the fork tube that the clip-on clamp to. Since you can have different diameters on the same tube its important to know the diameter where the clip-on clamps. Measure this in metric. This measurement should be close to the full millimetre measurement. Here are some examples of some bikes I have put clip-ons on "Examples 49.90 is 50mm, 53.88 is 54mm, and 52.02 is 52mm". When you find your Diameter your looking for, do an Internet search for Your diameter and clip-on. This should bring up a few options. Woodcraft clip-ons are my personal favourite, but Renthal and Vortex also has some quality stuff.

    Don't Forget that the Diameter you want is the same diameter your current clip-ons are clamped to.

    I hope this helps.

  2. Changing my bars back to clip-ons, I needed to disassemble the twist grip to re-route the cable and when I went in to pull the cable out of the grip "scroll, circle, thingie" I noticed a second set of holes the cable end could sit in.

    These are further out toward the edge of the white plastic circle the cable end anchors in.

     

    I put the cable end in there and damn if it doesn't have faster action!

     

    Well, of course it would being out further but is it designed that way to give you a choice?

     

    I believe the disk gets flipped over and snapped back onto the throttle barrel and the other hole can be used.

  3. I am looking to buy a carbed 1100 sport tank (i am sure a daytona 4v would work too), preferably one that is in fairly good shape (scratchs OK, dings and dents NOT OK).

    This is the steel tank that I am looking for, Moto Guzzi used them 1992 to 1998

     

    Thanks

  4. I had the same question about a stand alone ignition. milli108 was kind enough to give me an answer. On a bike that he built, he suggested using one from Sachse. This is one of the best that I have seen and has 7 or 8 preprogrammed curves. I believe he was using Mikuni hsr42 carbs. He also stated that the Harley kit 42-18 is the carb kit he is using, and the jetting that comes with the kit is real close to being spot on.

     

    I also wrote Guzzi323 about a carb conversion. This is the information that he gave me.

    Here's the jetting I'm currently running.

    Needle J8-8DDY1-97 3rd clip from top

    Pilot Jet 35

    Air Screw 2 1/4 turns out

    Main Jet 145

     

    The main jet is definitely a little bit on the lean side. I live in San Francisco and it's hard to find a good place to easily check the running on the main jet without getting arrested. I think a 150 main jet would be a better place to start.

    I use an airbox with the lid opened up.

    I find the set up is very sensitive to carb synchronization. If it's off, it'll spit back through the carbs at very small throttle openings

    Best of luck to you.

     

    I plan on doing my conversion this spring before its time to ride.

     

    Hope this helps

  5. Is this the ugliest mofoing bike you have every seen?

     

    I think a few Honda bosses will be comitting harakiri when it turns out to be a utter sales flop:

     

    red.jpg

     

    I expect it will be overpriced and over complicated too.

     

     

    I just do not understand the muffler/silencer that they use, its big and ugly. The tank has a hunchback and the front fairing has something to be desired as well, like take it off. :vomit::2c: Someone will buy it, no doubt. I wonder who their market target is.

  6. Can anyone make out what that is on top of the tank in front of the fuel cap where the tank pad was :huh:

     

     

    The red and blue look like fuel / oil / coolant fittings and lines that a friend of mine uses on his drag car. Is there a reason to have a line up there? I never had my chin pad off so I don't know whats under it.

  7. Yeah I like that color combo. I wonder if the wife will let me do the living room in the blue and trim in the orange? I don't agree with it being a cafe though. The rear fairing and headlight is more streetfigter than cafe. To me its a really good looking bike besides the headlight assembly. :2c:

  8. I went to the swap meet this weekend in Davenport Iowa. Its always a big event usually lasting 3 or 4 days. I seen lots of European bikes not as many as I would have liked to have seen, 90% of it was all Harley stuff, but still loads of fun to see other peoples junk laid out. Talking to one guy that does specialized tank building (fibreglass tanks) mentioned something to me. He said, " There are two different kinds of bikers, Builders and Riders". He mentioned, "Riders are usually content with the bike and will not make very many changes to their bike and own it for many many years. Builders will make the changes sometimes completely reconfiguring some components and redesigning of others, ride it for 6 months to a couple of years while building another one, get bored, and then sell the old bike when the new one is finished or sell it to fund the new project."

     

    Does anyone else carry this same philosophy?

  9. The OE pork chops are aluminum. They can be re-finished any way aluminum can be finished.

     

    I will probably just polish mine, but I am still curious.

     

    The ones I am thinking of are the billet aluminium ones (or maybe they are cast now that I look closer). I see them quite often on 8v guzzis and a few on v11s.

    plates.jpg

     

    Did these come stock on some bikes or are they an after-market item?

  10. :2c: IMHO I have to agree, going to carbs is like taking a step back in the evolution of the guzzi.

     

    :glare: I wonder though, if the same power is capable with carbs and the the power with carbs is not as smooth as with FI. What is the real reason to go with FI on a sport bike? :huh: From a manufacturing point of view its cheaper to manufacture. RD for one electrical system (just have multiple programs/maps for different engines), throttle bodies and injectors are cheaper (to the manufacture) because of less drilled holes and precision machined portions. One can argue that the electronics portion costs way more than the carbs alone. The electronics to the end consumer is more expensive not because of the cost it takes to build them, but because of the need to have them. The average ECU to build probably costs around $100 (tops) to manufacture. Its like selling a car and then selling the title for $1000 to the person who bought it after the car is gone and the person figures out he needs the title to prove its his (and to get it licensed).

     

    The FI also keeps the customer bound to the dealer or shop that works on his bike if he wants any changes done. The average Joe/Jane blow will not have the equipment to dial in or change a fuel map on his own. This brings the customer in to throw more cash down maybe trade in his bike for a newer model, or it forces the seller to sell their guzzi for far cheaper than its worth on ebay because it will not start, stay running, or is low on power because of a poor shade tree tune. Going to carbs on the other hand brings the customer in to get the initial tune out of the way and then this gives the rider freedom to change the jets as he sees fit. If the rider gets into trouble by going to rich or to lean (hopefully for not to long) he can always go back to the jets he had when he came off the dyno.

     

    I can see the need for FI on a cruiser (start up and smoothness issues) or a race bike, but not on a sport bike (something a gear-head is going to buy and attempt some tuning). When is the last time the average rider needed traction control adjusted because they could feel the rear-end getting a little squirly on them out of a corner.

     

    There are probably holes in some of my points/theories. :2c:

  11. This is extremely slick. I looked on the custom dynamics web page and couldn't find your 18.3 inch led light strip. Is there a part number that you can give out or will they do custom lengths? All i can find close is the 14.7 inch lengths.

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