df2
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Posts posted by df2
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Okay, so if you have your bike in for a Valve job, Throttle body synch and TPS set, and after they do the Valve Job, they call you and tell you they couldn't do the rest of the work because the bike won't start,,,and that they found the wire to the petcock was entirely sheared off or apart. What do you think happened?
I certainly didn't do it. Anybody have any good ideas how this happens?
I think they yanked the tank off without disconnecting it.
They want me to pay $45 bucks for a new petcock, which actually seems quite cheap to me also.
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I used black as all the other grounds on the bike are black (I always thought they were green) but considering the wire runs from mounting bolt to timing bolt, I think anyone else will get that it is ground, but I do get your point, especially on hot wires as it makes sense to stick with the wiring diagram key.
So next question, where is the neutral switch located?
PS. every time you guys mention a part, I go to manual to figure out what it looks like and where it is. You might as well say the thingy next to the whatmamachalit. I'm not that bad
but I did mix up the regulator with ecu....
But thanks for all your help, each of you!
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Okay, ran new #14 wire from regulator to timing cover bolt. Done. Did see that the other ground coming from up somewhere around the instrument panel was frayed and put a new waterproof crimp and seal connector on it. Done. Re-adheasved the ecu back down and reconnected its ground. Now to figure out why my instrument panel light for tach and speedo don't work. The good news is that idiot lights are back.
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I used a timing cover bolt as ground point. It's easy to get to. While you are at it, run a ground from the triple trees to the engine. I think the original ground path of the headlight goes through the steering head bearing
I believe there is one already. I didn't get the chance to follow it to it's source so it's either the Triple or right out of the instrument panel going to one of the timing cover bolts. In fact it was a bit frayed at the timing bolt and might be part of the issue with my instrument panel. I will check it closely when I am home.
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Okay, located a ground wire that goes from the regulator mounting bolt and feeds into the wiring harness leading under the tank, along the frame and at that point I loose it. I don't want to take all that apart right now with a full tank. Can somone tell me specifically if they know where the regulator is typically grounded by the factory. Cause it seems awful strange to run the ground wire the full length of the motorcycle.
Yes, the original ground wire is shown going back to the battery, this wire is next to useless, it's way too small for the 30+ Amp pulses the alternator puts out.
Usually the regulator gets grounded by accident to the horn bracket then from horn bracket to chassis.
Look at the big red wire from the regulator, that same current has to come back through the ground.
Any Voltage loss between the battery negative and the regulator case is subtracted from the charge Voltage because the regulator doesn't care what the battery is, it just sets the Voltage between it's black wire to it's case at ~13.8.
From your low Voltage readings in a previous post I think you will notice a big difference in your battery Voltage with a proper ground.
All you need is about 8" of #14 wire from a regulator mounting bolt to a timing cover screw or as gstallions says the coil mount. Scrape the metal of the regulator to get a good contact and apply a little grease to stop it corroding.
Less than a 1 beer job
BTW, going back through the engine is less resistance than running a wire back direct.
Can I run a ground wire in addition to the one that is already there, or do I need to remove the existing one?
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more info.
Okay, located a ground wire that goes from the regulator mounting bolt and feeds into the wiring harness leading under the tank, along the frame and at that point I loose it. I don't want to take all that apart right now with a full tank. Can somone tell me specifically if they know where the regulator is typically grounded by the factory. Cause it seems awful strange to run the ground wire the full length of the motorcycle. I reallly am wondering if that original wire I spoke of that was attached to the right front ECU bolt is actually this regulator ground wire.
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Do not twist and tape ANY connections...............Use butt connectors or butt connectors w/ spade or bullet terminals...
According to my 2003 wiring diagram, fues #6 powers the ign. coils, fuel injectors, fuel pump & dash warning lamp...2000 might be different ?
Probably different. Counting back from front, the 6th fuse is a 5a and it indicates that it is for lights on mine, just not headlight. I'll check out the NE club.
ps the twist and tape method was already there and was continued by the dealer when they supposedly tracked down the last short.
According to my 2000 sport here is the fuse layout
F1: ECU (5a)
F2: pump,coils injectors(10a)
F3: battery recharger (30a)
F4: ignition key switch (10a)
F5: high,low beam, horn, start, stop (15a)
F6: dipped lights (5a)
F7: direction indicators. (this has also shorted on me before) (5a)
F8: solenoid valve (5a)
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as JRT said, the regulator is a box under the front of the tank between the horns.. you can run a wire from a mounting bolt to an engine bolt, this will give a good ground. maybe someone nearby could help you set the TPS and sync throttle bodies.
if you go to wildguzzi.com there might be someone on there who lives near you?
fuse 6 is the 5A lights.
This is my third season with this motorcycle. I have never had the Throttle boddies, valves, or carbs adjusted/synced. My main concern is the electrical as this is the third time I've blown a fuse simply while riding. But I'd also like to get the power back it had originally and get it running smooth. (rpm are a bit low and it idles rough as well as the cough and spit at 3000)
The original owner I never knew, bike was sold through a friend of his who worked for Seacoast BMW. His friend said I would like how it was set up, so I took that to mean he had tweeked the mapping. The bike has an open airbox and mistral pipes with the original crossover. When I first got it, the bike pulled strong through all gears and rpms, if not a little "primative". There was a short somewhere that was causing the signals not to work, and I had that "repaired" at the moto guzzi dealer (5 miles up the road). I've replaced the relay's with GEI's.
Last season I replaced the plugs that were a bit fouled (black). This year, new odyssee battery(12.65 on the voltage meeter when installed). Most of the electrical connections up front are simply twisted with electrical tape (bike had magni which I swapped out back to original screen and put bars on). I'm relatively confident everything went back as it was.
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Thought about relocating the ground wire for the regulator (the big silver thing behind the battery)
Um, that's not the regulator- that's the ECU. You really should bolt it back down on rubber mounts.
Can I ground to the frame where the rear brake fluid container attaches?
Yes, although it is kind of a PITA to get there. I ran a ground wire to a relay from the reservoir mount. You will need to remove the paint, so you get a good contact. You could also just obtain a longer piece of wire, a couple of crimp-on fittings and attach the ground to the battery.
Darn, that's why I mentioned what I thought it looked like....so let me see if I have this right. The regulator is actually the thing located between the horns. So what is the ground wire that comes up under the ecu and attaches to one of the ECU mounting bolts.
Umm, put down the screw driver grasshopper.. take deep breath.. what exactly are you trying to do?
When I step back and think about it, I'd have to say sabotage...
Okay, so I keep blowing fuse # 6. And the bike also has some tough times around 3000 rmp with misfires and lack of real acceleration. Since I have no experience tracking down shorts , I did some other digging; and saw several posts about poorly grounded voltage regulators and it causing blown fuses and poor running etc. So I thought, gee regrounding something should be easy... so I found a pic of the regulator and gee it looks just like the upside down ECU and lots of schematics of the wiring show it somewhere around there also. Ergo my confusion, plus on many of the posts it talks about the regulator being grounded to one of the four posts that actually sit on top of rubber bumpers. Just like the ECU.
So that's why I'm asking what is that ground coming from, cause it sure isn't actually grounded. It's not out of the ECU, it comes up from below it with all the rest of the wiring harness.
So anyway, at this point I'm putting it all back like it was and starting over. But I would like to make sure the regulator has a good ground.
So basically I'd like to work on this stuff, but have no one around who can teach me anything. Everyone I know who rides is a RUB (Rich Urban Biker) and they just spend a thousand here and another there at the dealership every time they need something done on their bikes.
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Thought about relocating the ground wire for the regulator (the big silver thing behind the battery)
Um, that's not the regulator- that's the ECU. You really should bolt it back down on rubber mounts.
Can I ground to the frame where the rear brake fluid container attaches?
Yes, although it is kind of a PITA to get there. I ran a ground wire to a relay from the reservoir mount. You will need to remove the paint, so you get a good contact. You could also just obtain a longer piece of wire, a couple of crimp-on fittings and attach the ground to the battery.
Darn, that's why I mentioned what I thought it looked like....so let me see if I have this right. The regulator is actually the thing located between the horns. So what is the ground wire that comes up under the ecu and attaches to one of the ECU mounting bolts.
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So now i'm into it...
Thought about relocating the ground wire for the regulator (the big silver thing behind the battery)
and realize looking at the ground wire, it's not really grounded. The ground wire which screws to one of four regulator cover screws which screws to 4 rubber feet, which in turn are actually glued to the frame, how is this grounded. Unfortunately I pulled a little to hard and now the regulator isn't attached to anything.
Can I ground to the frame where the rear brake fluid container attaches? Of course behind the plastic fluid container with a washer so it's metal to metal. It's Not long enough to go to negative battery terminal. And are those rubber bumpers really just glued to the frame. My regulator is going to dance all over the place now. (actually,there is one bumper still attatched to frame )
Help!
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Hi all,
see below...
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Pos is rider left,neg rider right.I'm looking at PC 545 right now as Ive had it sitting on my shelf for a couple seasons.(the Spark wont die!)If it lays down(I dont remember)they would be opposite.If it stands up you should just be able to flip it.
Bikes down the road at garage I'll look at it later this morning but sure someone else will chime in.
I think the cables on my bike must be crossed to match the battery that is in it. It's a Spark, but the terminals are on the front, not the top like the 500(if you consider the top the short side). This must be the case because every battery listed for the 2000 v11 Sport has the negative rider left and positive rider right when looking at the face of the battery.
I just hope the cables actually have the neg and pos symbols on them so I don't attached them incorrectly.....
I'm an idiot. I readily admit it. battery on it's back. That's the problem with pondering something when you are at work trying not to have to do work, and aren't looking at the problem itself.
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Put the hose clamp onto the filter beside a oil pipe so if the filter wanted to back off the screw on the clamp hits the pipe and stops it from turning. (hope this makes sense).
Total sense.
Thanks
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did you hose clamp the filter? do a search..
When they say hose-clamp the filter, hose-clamp the filter!
Glad I found out when I did: the filter cartridge fitting apparently has two modes: welded on tight or spin-off loose.
The latter will lose oil pressure...
Do you want to take a chance?
AndyH
Okay, so yes I know all about the hose clamp....what I don't know or can't find is the application of it. Anybody have the instructions? Does it just go on anywhere, in any direction?
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Pos is rider left,neg rider right.I'm looking at PC 545 right now as Ive had it sitting on my shelf for a couple seasons.(the Spark wont die!)If it lays down(I dont remember)they would be opposite.If it stands up you should just be able to flip it.
Bikes down the road at garage I'll look at it later this morning but sure someone else will chime in.
I think the cables on my bike must be crossed to match the battery that is in it. It's a Spark, but the terminals are on the front, not the top like the 500(if you consider the top the short side). This must be the case because every battery listed for the 2000 v11 Sport has the negative rider left and positive rider right when looking at the face of the battery.
I just hope the cables actually have the neg and pos symbols on them so I don't attached them incorrectly.....
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Okay, I ordered an Odyssee PC545 after looking at several posts here.
The post in particular was an old post by dilang which had a nice picture comparing the spark 500 to the pc545. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4245
In this picture the black post is on the left and red on the right. As is the battery I ordered.
I look at my motorcycle and it's the exact opposite.
red (positive) is on left and black (negative) on right.
I have a spark 500 original battery in my 2000 sport.
Am I losing it?
Maybe the cables are crossed (unfortunatley I'm not at home right now so can't look)
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Okay so I thought I'd get cute and change my oil by using the port hole. Even spent 20 bucks on the tool. Everything goes great until I try to actually get the filter off. Filter wrench just wont fit on it right. No room to get any other tool or your hand on the filter....why make it nearly the same diameter as the filter? so now i just want to put it back together and do the filter next time. Can't get the porthole back on, keep cross threading it, try again and again.... So finally pull the sump. So easy. I can get the porthole to lay flat and thread, Plus I get to really clean it out. Easy to change filter...Moral, just pull the sump.
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Anyone know of a good source for the tank insulation/heat shield. I took a preliminary look at mine and it is all curled up and
away from the tank, but it's really hard and I think hardly pliable enough to glue back down. While I'm at it I have an extra Ferracci air filter I'll change out.
Thanks
Also, rossi46 - I don't think that's the issue as both are off the boots, just close. but I'll make sure. Thanks... But, wouldn't that make the bike run lean, rather than rich?
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Thanks guys, I'll give it a shot. If there is one thing I hate though is pulling that tank. IT always seems like I'm going to break
the selenoid valve or the Pressure Adjuster off the tank as they almost rest on the boots. I had to place a thick washer where the tank bolts down to keep them off of them.
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It is an open airbox, setup done by PO. Mice hey? Well we had quite a few of them this past winter so that's a definite possibility, haven't had then tank off to look at the filter/airbox since last fall, but I had the problem then too. Like I said, the bikes going in for a new rear tire, and I was thinking of having the items you all mentioned Valves, tps, tb's checked and balanced, potentially dyno'd and remapped. I'm thinking of putting the airbox cover back on, haven't decided yet.
I kind of wish there was someone around that liked working on the bikes and knowledgeable on guzzi's I could learn from. Part of the reason I bought the guzzi was to learn to work on a relatively accessible engine. But, I have small kids and little time and having the bike torn apart for extended periods of time takes away from riding. So I kind of need to work with someone who knows what they are doing so it goes back together the same day it's taken apart. I learn much better visually and have a hard time reading manuals and instructions. So, I take it to the shop for anything above small maintenance, but at $100 plus an hour labor, it gets pricey.
Anyway I appreciate the confirmation on the usual suspects.
PS. I did change the plugs yesterday, but the underlying issue on why the originals fouled still needs to be taken care of.
David
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Hi all, it's that time of year again and the v11, is getting ready for the season. towards the end of last season I noticed the bike was lugging badly when trying
To accelerate in 3 or 4th gear, say when passing. I would have thought this bike had more mid range power than that. I found that my plugs were fouled black, too rich? The question I guess is, shouldn't I be getting better performance than that? The bikes about to go to the shop, I'm thinking valves, tps and throttle bodies? Am I off base? I want to give the shop something to go on.
Thanks
David
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Did you check oil breather pipe as suggested by Mulatron above?
Can't see why engine oil would come from gbox plate - most likely migrating from somewhere else. Sure it's engine oil?
All nuts & bolts on sump & lines torqued up? There's gaskets between sump/sump spacer & spacer/block. O rings damaged on fitting? Sump plug washer OK? Any oil obvious toward front of motor/sump or elsewhere?
If you suspect elbow/flex joint, clean it all up, wrap a temporary fix around there, take it for a run & see if oil's still getting out.
There was no problem before you did work?
Good luck.
Check the Breather Hose! IT seems to be the number 1 cause of oil leak (that seems to look like it's from everywhere but) Clean up the engine and squirt baby powder all over it. Take if for a short ride. This will help you tell the difference between where it's really coming from and from splatter.
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For Our Wedding anniversary my wife and I would like to go back to Scotland (where we spent our honeymoon).
I think it would be great to do it by motorcycle. Anyone know of a really good motorcycle tour company?
I'd love to hit some of the following areas, Corse (near river don and Aberdeen where my family came from)
Speyside, up through the Great Glen, hitting lots of Castles during the day and Pubs at night.
This would be in a year but planning is key. checked out some companies on the net, but you never know
without first hand accounts. Would have to be somewhere that has a good motorcycle for hire etc.
Heck it may not even have to be a tour. My wife and I had a blast getting lost daily in the rental car
during our 8 days we spent day traveling from Edinburgh, turning off the beaten path whenever something peeked
our interest. So if anyone knows a good place to hire a touring bike...etc.
Thanks for your help.
David
Dealership says Petcock wire sheared in half?
in Technical Topics
Posted
Well, an update. Got a manual petcock, had no choice, after waiting a week for Piaggio to send the dealer the petcock, they sent a manual one. I knew $45 bucks was not enough for the oem electrical one. Anyway, I told them I was happy with the manual one so to install it.
From what I gather I should leave it open (unless pulling the tank, which I always felt funny about not closing a petcock when doing that, it only took one gas shower to learn that on my old kawi). That once in a while I should close and open it just to help keep it from getting frozen.
BTW, Oh my god I have a new motorcycle after the valves, tps and TBs being done. Plus they found my rear bearing were shot. But the bike is transformed back to a refined beast.