[2003 V11 Sport - Bozeman, Montana]

I am the second owner of this fine Italian machine. Price is set at 5,500$. I'm willing to deliver to anyone up to 150 miles. After that I'll charge for gas.

 

This bike is equipped with some really nice components and some extras, listed below:

 

Brembo Brakes (Front & Rear)

Hydraulic Clutch

Stainless Steel Lines (Brakes & Clutch)

Mistral Carbon-Fiber Exhaust Cans

Mistral X-Over header

PowerCommander (USB) Fuel Mapping

LSL Handlebar Kit

Bitubo Steering Damper

 

I have all the original parts, including the exhaust and header crossover, original clip-ons and Napolean bar mirrors. All of the software, map information, powercommander cables & software is included with the bike. Factory service manual (in binder) also comes with the bike, as well as a rear passenger cowl cover for when you want that "cafe racer" feel.

 

Leave me a phone number to give you a call at. I'm willing to drive up to 150 miles to meet a buyer if they are interested. I can deliver the bike as well, but will charge for gas.

 

Video of start-up, and two fly-by's taken outside Logan, MT.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcWKpUqpM0U

 

Some photos below:

[V11 Triple Tree / Geometry Changes]

Edited

[Rear Wheel Bearing Failure / Centerstand Questions]

(1) I presume "between registers" refers to between the faces that the bearings sit up against in the hub.

 

(2) Yes this spacer, part no 6 in diagram.

 

Perfect! Thank you very much for taking the time to explain that to me Baldini. I completely understand the scope of the failure now.

 

Sadly, I already drifted my bearings in, and as I don't have a spare set, I'm going to wait until this one gets mucky until I replace it and remeasure the spacer for machining. Might as well get some miles on this set until it starts to slop out.

 

Thanks!

[Rear Wheel Bearing Failure / Centerstand Questions]

I'm sorry, but I'm not following the different terms being used here.

 

I just measured the distance between registers and had a steel spacer made to match, sufficient scantling to ensure crush wasn't an issue.

 

What do you mean when you say "between registers"? How did you calculate a measurement for scantling?

I thought this issue came about due to a missing spacer between the rear brake caliper mount and the wheel bearing. Is it happening because of the spacer in the wheel between the two bearings? Or undershimming on the rear drive side?

 

Basic stuff when reassembling- lube the needle bearing on the drive side with bearing grease, (stick yer finger into the the bevel box and pop out the internal race to get at it) likewise the spindle (especially if your making a mild steel spacer), finally ensure the washer on the drive side is properly set into the recess, secure that with grease.

 

When I pulled the wheel off, I only saw the female coupling for the wheel spline,, the splines on the wheel, and a sealed bearings in the wheel. I'll have to check the parts diagram to understand which maintenance items your talking about. I lubed the rear drive spline with some moly grease, but its always good to know all the items I should be greasing back there. Thanks for the information, I'll start searching.

[Rear Wheel Bearing Failure / Centerstand Questions]

Yep, same thing happened to me a couple of months back. Found the spacer to be about 1.6mm to short so was surprised the bearings lasted as long as they did. Machined up a new spacer, replaced bearings and everything happy...

 

Interesting. What size (length) should the spacer be? I've got a lathe and some aluminum stock, and I'd rather take it apart again and get the right size in, if I got a short spacer.

[Rear Wheel Bearing Failure / Centerstand Questions]

The base # will give you the same dimension bearing. Read my post again. The prefix and or suffix characters describe tolerances and bearing speed specs, etc....

 

I understand what the suffix characters describe, and thank you for pointing that out for interested parties. I've sourced many an expensive BMW bearing from local bearing shops, with different suffixes, and ran without problems. The boys at MG Cycle sent me these, and given their reputation, I highly doubt they are in the habit of sending inferior bearings to their customers. I'll run these and see how they do.

 

That said, it is a good note to make. Just because they fit, doesn't mean they will behave the same way.

[Rear Wheel Bearing Failure / Centerstand Questions]

Where did you purchase the bearings? You have to buy the best quality part you can find. All the prefix and suffix characters on a bearing mean something. Just don't hop into a parts supply and get a 307ff bearing. You have to look on the dust shield (if it is an original part) and make sure you get a comparable part...........

 

I ordered the replacement bearings from MG Cycle. The suffix characters we're off from the stock (polish made) bearings. The replacements we're made in bulgaria.

 

I checked the dimensions with a set of electronic calipers. Straight match.

[Can't get my rear wheel off]

I've found that turning the axle (with a wrench) while pulling outwards works very well. Just grab the rachet, and bolt with your hand, and pull and turn.

 

I always clean and re-grease the axle every time I take it out.

[Rear Wheel Bearing Failure / Centerstand Questions]

I've only put about 3,000 miles on the bike. The previous owner had replaced the tires around 5,000 miles or so, so that was the last time that I *know* that the wheel was off, prior to this failure.

 

Given the nylon locking nut on the rear, and the way the bearings are contacted, 30nm seems pretty good by me. Even with that, there is a tremendous amount of preload on these bearings.

 

I'm going to clean everything up and put it back together with 30nm, and see how it fares this time around. Thanks for all the input everyone, I really appriciate it.

[Rear Wheel Bearing Failure / Centerstand Questions]

2003 V11 Sport

 

Sunny day, on a weekend ritual ride with my girlfriend. 80 miles to our favorite pie place, following the Gallatin river towards Yellowstone park. On the way back, I started to feel a slight rhythmic vibration from the rear end. I slow down a bit, flip over the visor, try to isolate any sounds. Pull over and check the driveshaft for any slop in the joints or the connection. Decide to limp it home, very. slowly.

 

Get about five blocks from home, when the vibration turns really bad. Pull over immediately, and start checking everything again. Thats when I spot this:

 

 

Bearing race has completely collapsed. We walk the five blocks home, get the truck and park it at my shop.

 

New bearings in without a problem, but I'm concerned about why it happened with only 8,000 miles on the odometer. I've never seen a wheel bearing (especially on a street bike) fail with so few miles. I'm worried (looking at how the bearing is preloaded from the rear caliper mount. The area contacting the bearing appears to be greater than the inside race, and possibly contacting the outer seal.

 

Has anyone else had anything like this happen on their V11 sport?

 

Also, does anyone know where you can buy a center stand for these bikes nowadays? I find myself having to do ridiculous things to lift and support the rear of this bike:

 

[Introduction Thread]

Hi Folks,

 

New to the V11 world, but not to the world of Guzzi's. Bought a 1976 850-T3 three years ago with 78,000 miles on the clock, and a few "little" issues that needed to be fixed. I fixed all of the little issues as they cropped up, and rode it for 12,000 miles before giving it to my father as a birthday present.

 

I was able to go about 6 months without a Guzzi, before the urge overcame me. Just came home with a well cared for 2003 V11 Sport Naked.

 

I live out in Montana, where the roads are open, the mountain passes plentiful, and the traffic is non-existent. Looking forward to reading and conversing with y'all.

 

Thanks!

 

My (now Dad's) 850 T3:

 

 

The V11 Sport Naked I just picked up: