fly4hire
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Posts posted by fly4hire
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OK, take off one afternoon for a ride, hot weather. Everything works. 30 miles later stop for a drink, get back on the bike and it won't start. Cranks, chugs, but won't start. Fuel pump working, dash lights and headlight not. Try everything - swapping relays, etc. Nothing. An hour later it mysteriously starts and I head for home. I pull into a local HD dealer for a second to make a call home. Now bike does not start again
Battery acts near dead - clicky, clicky starter.The tech manager throws in on a charger for 15 minutes starts right up. Checks voltage at the battery between 1000-3000. 12.5 volts. Damn, bad regulator. Order same, install, still 12.5 volts. Now I suspect a bad alternator.
Looking at shop manual it appears the charging circuit runs through the voltage idiot light on the dash and I'm getting no light, horn, or tach. Low voltage - no the battery was recharged at home to top off???
I start playing around with relays and relay connectors. After swapping a few and checking the wires I get the idiot lights, horn, and tach working, and check the voltage and Voila - 14.7 volts at 3500rpm.
Please tell me the there is not an interdependency between the charging circuit, idiot lights and the light relay??!!
Now everything is working fine, out for a ride a day later and the low fuel light comes on. Stop for a while a friends house and its the same start issue all over except this time the idiot lights work. There is a little fuel in the tank I can see shaking the bike around.
Now I'm wondering if perhaps there is a fuel feed or pump issue, however I can hear the pump loud and clear - maybe it's only feeding from one side? Suspecting this I lay the biker almost on it's side and back and she starts up (this is ~20 minutes later) and I make it (into a station 5 miles down the road. She takes 4.3 gallons. Starts fine and purrs (growls) as normal.
So now at this point do I have an independent issue with fuel supply, vapor lock, or could this be related to the earlier electrical problem?
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Looking for frame (red enamel) and engine (silver heat resistant) touch up paints for my 2000 V11 Sport. Color Rite has nothing listed. Does anyone have any other model or after market cross references?
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Has anyone come up with a solution/fix for the incredibly flimsy front brake light relay connections and micro switch assembly on this unit? I've managed to pinch the blade connectors, but it's still about as robust as what I'd expect in a 60's Japanese portable radio (actually that was probably better). All I have to do is look at it sideways and a connection comes lose. I'm half way tempted to solder it.
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Interesting...
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarti...ntentId=7032644
Castrol Syntec 20W50 for classic cars.
It claims high zinc levels and best of all it is the only oil I have seen warn:
"SYNTEC 20W–50 does not meet the catalyst compatibility requirements of vehicles manufactured since 1993."
AND
"Engineered to increase wear protection for classic cars with flat tappet camshafts."
But if you look on the spec sheet for their 20W50 it says that is SH, SL, SM, etc., but not SG
WTF?
Wish someone would do an independent test on it, and a few of the other oils.
Here is some more info from Castrol, that was posted here:
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/6a-engine-mec...et-engines.html
Product Recommendations for Flat Tappet (Solid Lifter) Cam Engines:
Castrol Syntec 5W-40 (min Zn = 0.10 wt % = 1000 ppm)(full synthetic)
Castrol Syntec 20W-50 (Recent reformulation identified by "Recommended for Classic Cars" text on back label) (min Zn = 0.12 = 1200 ppm)(full synthetic) PREFERRED
Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60 (BMW dealerships) (min Zn = 0.10 = 1000 ppm)(full synthetic)
BMW Long Life 5W-30 (BMW dealerships)(min Zn = 0.095 = 950 ppm)(full synthetic)
But 0.12 Zn is probably not enough, and the oil is otherwise dubious compared to the true synthetics.
Here is a good article flat tappets
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/...appet_cam_tech/
Looks like Penzoil and Quaker State make some racing oils with a better Zinc level.
Resurrecting a dead horse, Royal Purple Max-Cycle 20w50 per a conversation with one of their engineers is Z 1250 ppm, and P 4500 ppm. Anyone use these with good results? Very popular among Harley riders, but then so is that color among the gay community a large...
(disclaimer for the PC - I discriminate against everyone, myself included, equally) -
Going over the V11 I recently purchased, even though the last service (6K) was done (by a MG dealer) less than 1500 miles ago, I thought I would double check a few things.
Checking the valves, the right side was a little tight, nothing over torqued as far as loosening things, and I set to world spec. The left side was way tight, and as I'm loosening the adjuster lock nut I notice it not much more than finger tight
I set the gap, and as I'm tightening the lock not it does not seem to tighten. Checking for play, the entire top of the adjuster nut comes off in my hand. Grrrrr. Checking the intake side, the locking nut is torqued to excess. 4 new adjusters ordered today. This work was from a reputable dealer. I guess I'll be doing a lot more going over things...... -
FWIW, I just bought a pair of Z6's on BikeBandit to replace the old Battleaxes on my V11. If you enter the code CUSTREVIEW43 on checkout it was worth another 10% off for $256 for the pair delivered (120/70-17, 170/60-17). Best deal I found by a good margin.
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Congrat's, F4H, and well done. I b'lieve you've just been introduced to the infamous Forum Fright Factor,
by which many a Newb has been scared into service paralysis -- or worse, sale of his Guzzi -- by reading the few (relatively very few) "worst case" scenarios of grief and woe that invariably get posted, and somehow get interpreted by the uninitiated as "the norm". It's not just here. Pick any online Forum, and this phenom is alive and well.Have fun breaking it in. IMHO you've selected a fine road machine to own and ride for the long haul (the personal philosophy of Yours Truly), the likes of which are to be found not only seldom today, but less and less in years to come -- when only progressively silly 2-wheeled "Green Enviro-appliances" will be approved for manufacture. . . Don't get me started. . .
Have fun breaking it in, and don't spare either the throttle or the upper range of the tach.
Hear you about throttle - the last owner babied it way too much. Need to clear the carbon out
This is a second bike for me, a FJR1300 being primary for long hauling. Efficient, fast, comfortable, and a little lacking in soul. I had a Guzzi a few years back and regretted selling it. I enjoy wrenching as a pass time in and of itself, and unlike all but the best dealers, I know I will take the time and care to make sure it is done right. Of course given the dealer network of Guzzi I'll get to indulge myself freely out of necessity.Regarding the concept of motorcycle soul, I think Italian bikes ooze it, and MG in particular. I convinced my wife I was not buying another bike, I was adopting an orphaned one in need of a good home. Several yeas ago I read an article (don't have the bookmark) about the nature of Guzzi's vs. Ducati and other makes, and they described the Guzzi factory as something to the effect of "where they've been making the same brand for over 70 years, with many of the same craftsman, who smoke while they work, get in arguments, and occasionally throw things at each other" Some may consider that a bad thing - I consider it a plus
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Going carefully through my new 00' (7K) V11 and reading the threads here on mods and tech issues, I decided to check the condition of the rear spline and attempt to get at the cush drive. Based on what I read here I was prepared for a half day project and mechanical battle.
Well, the spline and axle had been carefully greased, and only required cleaning and a bit of additional lubrication, but to my surprise, the flange plate for the cush drive came off easily, and the rubber cushions were soft and pliable! I did perform the recommended drilling, but since they were fairly compliant to begin with, only drilled one 10mm hole per puck. Everything went easily back together, with a little anti-seize on the flange bolts for good measure.
She'll be out for a spin later this morning and we'll see if it makes a difference, and if nothing else I know that bit is properly cared for. I've only been on here for a few day, and this venue is already invaluable
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Hi,
Sounds like you are fairly skilled already. The one item I can attest to is when changing tires, go one size smaller on the
There was a Con Rod recall.....guessing your bike had the recall work completed?
I am not posative, but I think your manual calls for a different weight oil from your previous V11. The manual calls for 20w50 on our 2000 models. I use AMSOIL. You are correct, much debate here.
Verified all recalls done. Curious about the satisfaction with use of "Big Twin" specific oils in the V11? I recall from previously that my dealer at the time (Detroit Eurocycles RIP) recommended dino in the engine syn in the diff and tranny due to metal to metal seals in the eng to tranny and seepage with syn. Fact or fiction?
Pictures to follow.
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After deeply regretting the sale of a V11Coppa a few years back, I picked up a very low mileage (7K) 2000 V11 sport. I have the shop manual from before, and will be doing all my own service. The bike has been meticulously cared for and has full service records with last service being done at 6K 2 yrs ago.
I'll be doing TB sync, valves, eng oil/filter, brake pads, brake and clutch fluids and will likely leave the trans and rear diff alone for now.
Any advice on particulars on this model/year to pay attention to?
-best experiences with various oil, filters, brake pads (hh vs. not). Just looking for the quick answer, not a 20 page discourse on oil and filters <_>
The previous owner did drop it in the driveway and broke off the R side brake lever (no other damage other than minor scrape in the cylinder guard) however the F brake micro switch came loose and does not seem to easily stay on the m/f blade connectors now. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance and looking forward to all the advice and opinions here.
Electrical Gremlins
in 24/7 V11
Posted
Forgot to mention 2000 V11. The more I read I think you may be correct on the vapor lock. On my bike the pump is directly over the spine, however it was also blazingly hot days (90 +) and I tend to ride in the RPM sweet spot of 4-7K. The electrical relay stuff might have been secondary to the vapor lock, although I'm still curious about the charging circuit and light relay relationship....