c20500

Got the My15m kit on Saturday and completed it Monday morning and tested the bike Monday night... and it works! got the idle sorted, i'll mess with the map tomorrow after I put the cherry bombs back on... Thanks Hubert for the recommendation... Clif responded quickly to my assembly questions. I'll run open loop for now. regards, Charles

Howdy folks, I've ordered My15M for my 2004 Naked and will probably go with a wideband closed loop set up. Where is the best place to put the o2 sensor? I have the stock crossover. I noticed the two nuts on the interior sides of the headers... how about the balance tube just under the alternator to get both sides? Also, a few more questions for you experts... the owner that sold me the bike said it has a catalytic converter on it.. it's a California approved model but I doubt it has it. there is no o2 sensor currently. How can I tell? the vin is zguktc0164m111173 Thanks again.

My bike has the factory yellow gunk on the tps and idle adjustment screws.. so bad that I can't get the allen key in far enough to unlock the idle screws. Will the stuff melt or any suggestions would be appreciated on how to remove the locking liquid/gunk. My last resort would be to vice grip the extended end and screw it through and replace them if they are not too unusual to find at a hardware store... Was going to do the tps/tb adjustment but I was only able to sync via the balance rod. Thanks Charles

I agree, I just ordered the My15M kit. Seems like the current FI set up was just to pass evaporative emissions regulations. I will probably go the lambda sensor route. Thanks for the suggestion.

My crude exhaust back pressure device. I had to nearly choke it completely to cure the 3k miss. amazing how much back pressure is on the stock pipes. No way around remapping to keep the system open...

Howdy folks, Which powercommader or other remaping controller/software is compatible with the 2004 V11 Sport? Thanks for you suggestions. Charles

Test drive update... has a hitch/flat spot at 3k.. at part throttle, fine every where else and better top end. Probably will need a remap or fiddling with a reducer end pipe. Nice sound but not too loud and has the stock crossover. Cheers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9L_xT0yEEM Sorry about the video quality and dark garage. sounds even better mounted. Also the exterior covers stay much cooler as the bombs take the heat.

Well, I welded them in without cutting off the ends and the bomb ends stick out around 1/2". I cut out the tapering outlet on the end covers and painted the aluminum cans to semi gloss black and they look just like my originals. I couldn't be happier with the results as it looks stock, weighs the same but flows and sounds great. I'll take it for a spin tomorrow to see if the fueling is way off or not. I could put a reducer on the bomb end to tune it later if required. Charles

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So I have weighed the cans: Stock w/o the beauty cover and end cap/mounting etc is 6 pounds 15.8 ounces. With cherry bomb and half of the shell intact is 7 pounds 13 ounces.. when I remove most of the shell which is at least the 13.5 ounces on the pieces I removed on one side there will be a net weight savings 0.3 ounces. Call it even after the welds and more of the shell gone. So, at least it won't weigh more, just more flow and sound.

actually there's very little difference in weight as the shell and core will be gone once the ends are welded on. Beauty covers slip back on and even the end caps will fit by opening up the reducer flange.

Attached, photo of the cherrybomb insert into the stock can

Yes, they are a bit heavy, but should be pretty close to the original weight after surgery.

I always wondered how cherry bomb glasspacks would sound on a v11 Guzzi so here it is: Serious growl, but not nearly as loud as any harley... The 2" versions fit right on the stock crossover for the experiment. I have a set of used original cans that I have surgically gutted and these, once the ends are trimmed will fit right in. I was going to cut the ends off the stock cans but wanted to preserve the mounting and foot rest nuts on the inner cans so I've cut them on one side and removed the pipes/baffles. I'll post photos afterwards.. I've seen the photos of the opened up stock cans here on the forum and I tried with cutting holes on the end but this will be easier and better. Stock cans on ebay $65 plus Cherrybombs at 60 a pair and some beer for someone to weld them in.. not too concerned with mild steel/stainless issue and it should be at least 400 cheaper than a pair of mistrals and they will look bone stock. Charles

After checking, I do have the Tyco relays but I ordered GEI's today. Guess I could have installed a standard 30amp spdt automotive relay with a pigtail on the 1st one that gets double abuse from the headlight circuit... next would probably add a sep. relay for the headlight...

It seems to do it only when hot after being ridden and not when stone cold. I have yet to pull the tank and check on those connectors... When it didn't activate the starter today after a 30 minute ride just after filling up, I used my bypass starter switch and of course it started. I shut it off immediately and it restarted via the regular method... something isn't flowing when heated. When some good voltage goes through the circuit, it seems to restart fine. Obviously not enough or any voltage is reaching the starter relay in the non start condition as the relay doesn't click. It's an 04 so I would think the relays are the upgraded ones..? I'll pull the tank tomorrow to get at those bullet connectors! Thanks Charles

Thanks for all your replys. The neutral switch then just prevents the starter from engaging right? Would it matter if I was maybe in a false neutral? Must be as I wouldn't have been able to bump start it. I will go thru and clean up all the connections in the circut. I'm just not used to a bike with these safety features. I think I will wire an override switch close to the starter just in case it ever happens again. Regards Charles

Had an issue where I resorted to someone helping me bump start the bike today when for some reason the starter wouldn't activate. In neutral, side stand up, clutch in, kill switch in start position and no go. I didn't hear a relay click either other than the fuel pump activating. is the starter relay with all the other opposite the fuses or is it closer to the starter? Perhaps I have a contact on the starter switch going bad as when I got her home it started up repeatedly. This is a 2004 V11 sport naked. Appreciate any feedback Charles

Howdy folks, I just jumped 2 decades into the modern era where suspension / brakes work... Just picked up a 2004 V11 Naked with 5k miles.. completely stock with the exception of mirrors and msd plug wires. 1st thing on my list... foam grips and a cramp buster on the throttle. It's a bit buzzy at 4,000 rpm. wish it were a bit louder but I'll take care of that soon. It's a far cry from my 86 LeMans IV but it still has similar character. Cheers. Charles Redondo Beach, California 2004 V11 Sport Naked 86 Lemans IV 74 Laverda SF2 81 Ducati Pantah 600TL 81 V50 III

Thanks, I thought it was normal... but just wanted to make sure. Regards, Charles

Howdy folks, I've owned several older Guzzi's including a 86' Lemans and an older V50 but I'm new to V11's Is there supposed to be a dry clutch chatter noise when the clutch is pulled in on the V11's (V11 2004 Sport Naked)? specifically a later 2004 model with the crossover just below the alternator cover.. I know the previous Guzzi's had dry clutches but none made any noise like say a dry clutch Ducati? It's not nearly as loud as a ducati's, I'm just checking with you guys if it's normal for the V11's. The bike I'm looking at has only 5k on it and looks to be a well cared for honest example. Thanks Charles