Orange Guzzi
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Posts posted by Orange Guzzi
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I was blaming one problem on another apparently. The replacement tachometer cured the intial problem.
I would suspect that your faulty tachometer was misreading RPM's - not controlling them. There is nothing in the tachometer that can send a signal to the ECU to change rev limits unless your bike has a singularly unique system that no one is aware of at this time. If so - I hope you kept the original tach - Marelli may want to pay big money for the chance to examine it's systems!!
I think it was causing the coil to short out since the tach is connected directly to it. Not a problem with the ignition. The bike ran much better after a tach replacement.
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I was blaming one problem on another apparently. The replacement tachometer cured the intial problem.
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I found a cure for my rev limiter. I replaced the tachometer. It had been bouncing and final quit. When I replaced it, the bike started running better and the rev's past 7,450 rpm's.
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black, less than 14,0000 miles.
Send me a message for more information and photos. Can't seem to post pictures here.
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Tire choice is the Battalax bt020. I am impressed, great traction on dry roads, have not tried rain yet.
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Looking for a replacment tachometer for the 96 sport. Mine finally crapped out. Took it apart and looked for broken wires and use the multi meter to the best of my ability to find broken or unsoldered wires. The needle had been bouncing since aquiring the bike 6,000 miles ago.
80 mm diameter, single pulse, electric.
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Need to change out my rear Metzler tire. What are some of the current brand choices out there? Looking for milage over traction. The current tire is wearing in the middle from my riding style. Hard starts and stops.
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96 carb sport.
Quite surprised there is so few choices on such a bike. May try to fit a ignition from another bike that is 90 degree v twin. the vaccum advance is the real problem. few choices outside of the stock setup. On wildguzzi there are several discussions on the digiplex. no one discussed the rev limiter side. just various timing curves of various bikes. even that is some what vague. only a couple of charts with resistance values.
I subscribe to cycleworld mag and I thing this would be a good question for their expert.
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Is there anyway or a replacement for the stock ignition modual that will soften the blow or the rev limiter?
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Sent Doc a message earlier. I guess its on. I will plan on showing up again. Had a good time last year.
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Plan D. I used the VDO. Used a Sigma bike speedo pickup. Ran wire from speedo to rear brake rotor area and mounted to the brake caliper. Used 4 magnets from Home Depot mounted with jb weld into the rear brake rotor. Equally space. Cheap, easy and fast fix.
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I am in need of a Sidestand-Kickstand that mounts to the front of the engine as used on the Spine Frame and Older Tonti frame bikes.
Need complete assembly including mounting tabs and springs.
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When I got around to working on my bike this past week, I found the fuel line was almost blown off the right pet cock. That is with a spring type hose clamp. I removed the rubber vacuum plug from the gas cap and took the bike out for a few rides since. The bike runs much better and consistantly now. I stopped a removed the fuel cap after riding the bike several miles. The fuel tank was not pressurizing.
I just can't stay off the bike. I have three bikes and two are being neglected. Getting the bike sorted out over the last couple of weeks has greatly increased the fun factor.
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I made it home. Had a great time. Only had one close call the whole weekend. Started to rain then storm real hard. Stopped under a gas station cover and a lightning hit the telephone pole about 75 feet away.
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Thanks for the replys everyone. I think I may try to T off the hose from the cap to bottom of the tank and add a vent tube. Id like to solve this before it gets hot again so I dont get stranded somewhere.
Putting a T in the hose will not help. The hose drains the filler neck bung tThe problem per the previous post is the rubber one way plug in the cap. It allows air in and will not release pressure.
Just got back from the spine raid and have fueling problems. One of my thought is that the pressure from the fuel tank is causing the left carb to flood. I am going to remove the small black plug from my cap and see if that helps.
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At 0600 this morning, local stations reporting Friday as partly sunny H85/L55, Saturday partly sunny H88/L62, Sunday 30% chance of rain H88/62...looking pretty good if the weather patterns maintain transit speeds.
7 day frontal map says great weather for riding, bad for fishing.
Brother Chuck said he may come also. He rides a kawi zrx1100.
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I changed to EBC-hh pads. I have rear brakes now. I can actually lock the back wheel now.
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The cure I found for the popping and hiccuping was easy, but not long lived. I found that if i synchronized the carbs with the idle screws the problem went away. Also I sychronized the the carbs with the throttle pull cables.
What made the hiccup come back was when I was at a stop light and turned the idle screws out of sync. Also make sure you keep the idle at 1050-1150 rpm. The bike will idle at a lower rpm, less than 1000, but needs to be at the higher spec'd rpm.
MY sport work best with the clutch engaged and rolling down the road. Yee ha.
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Mine could be the very first one judging from the VIN
my sport 1100 has s/n 100262. it was built in march 1996. i would say it is number 262.
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That does look like a nice job.
I'm thinking that I will fit a set of Renthals to my V11 as I love everything about the bike except the vivs through the bars.
Thing is I do like the riding position and the cafe racer style, has anyone simply fitted a set of almost flat bars upside down abit like the newer Thruxtons, and do you think it would look ok?
cycle gear has easton fat bars and mounting clamps for $90.00. the woods bar look like the ones i am going to put on my 1100 sport.
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the aluminium has a 2 into 1 exhaust from todd at guzzi tech, k & n drop in air filter with the air box top chopped off, and a pc3 programmed by todd for the exhaust and air box mod. new springs and valves on front end and progressive 418 shocks on rear. the bikes runs great with the program todd put in the pc3. i agree with some of the post regarding the look of pods. i doubt my bike will ever be on the race track. as i posted earlier, i want to change fuel tanks and eliminate the under tank air box.
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its been 5 years since anyone has posted on this thread. any new conclusions on the k&n pod vs stock setup?
i have been posting on the wildguzzi site for a few years. i can see from this site, the attitude about modifications to our guzzi's is different. more of a lets try it and see what happen rather than leave it alone, it works.
i ride a 2003 aluminium with hydro valves and fuel injected. i have been in the process of converting the bike to a old school/mid 70's style guzzi. i wanted to put a different fuel tank on the bike. the tanks available will not fit because the airbox is under the fuel tank. i was looking here to see if anyone has removed the stock airbox and replaced it with pods/k&n's. it looks like it is being done without any real issues.
Brake compensator valve
in Older models
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Proporsioning valves can be purchased that are adjustable for front/rear bias. They are not very expensive. A quick check or ebay has them starting at $20.
I removed the valve attached to the swing arm on my California when I added the Magni swing arm. I am going to add an adjustable proportioning valve to the bike when the weather breaks and I can do some riding.