Jacob Ezzell
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Posts posted by Jacob Ezzell
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awesome, thanks docc!
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Jacob, hover over the username and a profile box opens. Click on "Send Message" use the forum personal messaging instead of email.
That's what I tried, but it says "The member gstallons cannot receive any new messages"
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Actually, emailed the hotmail account listed on your profile, forums system says I can't PM you for some reason. maybe inbox full?
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that's great, PM sent. Anyone have good luck / bad luck mail ordering random old parts?
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I noticed about 6 weeks ago that the big nut that locks the pivot bolt in place on the right side was missing. apparently I didn't torque it down well enough when I rebuilt the back end this spring. So I went online and ordered one from Harper's Moto, and I guess it's been backordered this whole time. First request for updates said "it's on order" and the second request was ignored. Anyone know what size the bolt is so I can maybe put something on temporarily? Or have a spare I can buy, or know a better place to get one? Getting real tired of not riding.
2001 v11 sport
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If the clutch on my 2001 v11 sport is wearing out, as in it slips badly, especially when starting on Hills or going up my driveway, what parts need to be replaced? I see the clutch kits on mgcycles but that looks like a full replacement, flywheel etc.
I'd rather order some bits before crabbing the frame, but does it make more sense to take it apart first, then see what needs to be replaced?
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Those #s are the part # for the bearings.
oh, they didn't match the numbers on the mgcycles website. Are they really different left and right side?
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I got mine out to replace, at least that was a lot easier than the stupid swingarm bearings. Are they the same on the left and right side? or should they be?
2000 v11 sport (green)
Mine are labeled:
SKF 6204-2RSH on the drive side
SKF 6204-2RS1 on the brake disk side
Anyone have the part number for my year/model?
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(It is just an aside, but is there wiring harness resting on your throttle linkage? It would be un-good for the throttle not to close when you would hope.)
The harness is an extra circuit for a relay to some oversize horns. They aren't resting on the throttle link.
Just a bad angle in the picture. -
Another observation, the vacuum port, the small fitting at the bottom facing forward, is bent upwards. Perhaps a full tank of gas and a not so gentle resting position? While I would check the other suggestions first, and the main sealing o-rings are farther up in the assembly, it could be a possibility that the bending has impaired the sealing or the internal sealing of the regulator?
Is there supposed to be something attached to that vacuum port?
I think it's been bent since I owned the bike, but I don't remember anything ever being attached there.
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You're sure the gas isn't coming from the hose? The hose often leaks at this point after you had it off. Try to retighten it carefully. A 7mm nut is best for that job, screw drivers are worst.
Hubert
Dang if you weren't right. I must not have tightened that one when I put the tank back on, or didn't tighten it enough. No more leaks, for now.
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No matter which bearing you install , pry the rubber seal off the bearing and fill the bearing with grease , then push the seal back in place.Practice on the old bearing to become familiar with what you are doing. Filling this space in the bearing will prevent any future problems
The rubber seals on these came off easily enough. Would you do anything to clean out the old supposed cheap grease or just fill liberally with good stuff?
It only took the machine shop I brought the swing arm to 2 weeks to get the old bearings out. Hopefully the new ones go in easily for them.
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I've been having intermittant problems with fuel leaks. Only with the engine running, but also when I first turn the key on and the fuel pump circulates some gas through the system.
Last time I thought i found it, thought it was a loose hose at the fuel filter.
This time while working on a bunch of other stuff, I cranked up the engine and found gas dripping out from around this part. Never seen that before.
Two questions:
1: what is this piece? What's it for? I couldn't find the name in my shop manual.
2: why would gas be leaking from it? can i disassemble it and replace something, or do I need to replace the whole thing?
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I ended up ordering two replacement bearings that I found online, same dimensions and construction. from www.thebigbearingstore.com
The Big Bearing Store Items
2 5303-2RS Radial Ball Bearing 17X47X22.2 @ $10.32 = $20.64Hopefully they work well, two with shipping for half the cost of one from an online guzzi parts dealer. Now to just get them greased and mounted.
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Any thoughts on which bearings to use? Anyone know what tapered roller bearings might fit?
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Yes ...I suppose it is possible to modify it without removing.
If my swingarm were still mounted and all I needed to to do was grease the
driveshaft, I would do everything I could not to have to disassemble.
Years ago I was to the point that Jacob is now and I said to myself....
I'm gonna fix that problem now.
My problem ended up being that no matter what angle I attacked it from, I couldn't get the zerk exposed enough, it was obscured by the shaft drive u joint knuckles themselves. Others have addressed this with a needle grease nozzle, but I couldn't get that to work.
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I have my swingarm off, and noticed the drive side bearing sticks and is notchy. I found all these horrible threads about removing them, so I'll probably make a visit to a machine shop to get the old one out.
MG Cycle has what redguzziv10 found, same id numbers stamped on them, $55 each
http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2838
Here's a link to the company tech specs about the bearing:
And here's one with the same dimensions (note I'm not claiming that they have the same load specs, I don't see those listed) but only $10 each
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-574/5303-dsh-2RS-Radial-Ball-Bearing/Detail
There might be others, I had limited success with google searches. Anyone replace these with something non-oem? Needle or cylinder bearings would be nice considering the mass being carried by them.
in case anyone is as stupid as me...
The swing arm bearings are
SKF
ID = 3303
part = A-2RSITN9/MT33
Apparently the important bit is the MT33 bit. Stands for high speed grease
and they're a sun'fabitch to get out! -
good deal, thanks docc. After significant disassembly, I did get it into the front ujoint. see my other #$%% thread
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Thanks Andy, where would I drill an access hole? It was pretty much shielded by the swing arm and the shaft itself.
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I think i read every thread on here about how to access the front shaft ujoint zerk. I couldn't get any of the advice to work, access from the top, bottom, back none of it worked with the swingarm in place. I even went out and bought the needle type grease tip adapter for the grease gun. I could see it and go straight into it, but the needle wouldn't engage with the zerk. So I tried to take just the bolt out of the top of the swingarm, and couldn't even get it out of the bike, it wouldn't fit around the frame. So I took the main swingarm pivot bolts out, and even then I couldn't get to the zerk, but I could twist the rear swingarm sideways and get the upper bolt out of the shock/swingarm junction. Finally with EVERYTHING disassembled I could pop my grease gun onto the zerk.
What a pain in the ass. Do the guido grease-monkeys have really thin grease gun adapters or something?
So now that I have all these pivot bolts apart there are bits of rust on a lot of the pivot surfaces. What should I coat them with as I put them back together? Same kind of anti-seize stuff I would put on the threads of spark plugs?
Here's a colonoscopy picture once I got the swingarm off.
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It came in a small cartridge, 3oz. Also came with a pack of "red n tacky #2" from the same company.
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I have to admit, I don't really keep up on my scheduled maintenance, and I'm sure it's going to bite me in the ass. I finally got around to changing my rear tire, so I figured I would follow through with the what to do when your tires are off thread.
I'm trying to grease the shaft for the first time. I picked up a grease gun and it came with some heavy duty grease made by Lucas Oil. It's nlgi #2, which I've read is the right grade.
Any idea if this is good enough stuff?
This is what it says on the company product page:
LUCAS X-TRA HEAVY DUTY GREASE
Virtually wash-out proof. Stands up to high temperatures and stays soft in very low temperatures. EP fortified and exceeds OEM specifications.
Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease was formulated for automotive, agricultural, heavy-duty and industrial applications. It is virtually waterproof and is more stable than all conventional lithium grease. It is fortified with an extreme pressure additive package and it exceeds OEM Lube for Life specifications.
Key Benefits
Lasts four times longer than regular grease
Virtually waterproof
All temperature stable
Exceeds Lube for Life specifications
The ultimate grease for high speed bearings
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You may have logged more miles in the dirt on that trip than most GS owners do in a lifetime!
To be fair, only about 5 miles was dirt, the rest of it was paved
I wasn't on anything that wasn't graded, no 4wd roads or anything like that. If I tackled that I'd certainly want a bash guard and probably a bike that weighs 300lbs less
I had an enduro bike once, got a concussion the first time that knocked me out cold for 10 minutes. 
I don't need the temptation, I'll stick to wide dirt roads. -
I did a fantastic ride last week from Evergreen, CO up to Squaw pass and echo lake, and part of it was on dirt. My v-11 has dirt bars on it and handled really well, considering my street tires are nearly bald. Got me curious if anyone had blocky/knobby tires on their guzzi, making it into kind of an adventure guzzi like a BMW 1200GS
rear brake pedal
in Wanted
Posted
tipped over on my 2000 v11 on a dirt road, biggest loss is the rear brake pedal, it snapped in half. Looking to spend less than the $130+ for a new one.