IBA 270
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Posts posted by IBA 270
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I'm changing the heard around a bit and unfortunately the Le Mans is going to be the odd bike out. She's been marvelous; fun to ride, handles well, sounds great and ALWAYS draws looks and questions!
Here is scoop; I bought it January of last year from a member here. The bike was in great shape and very well sorted. I added a few more touches; Moto Bits pegs (really a nice bit of kit), bar end mirrors, deleted the rear fender/hugger (my word it looks like she's lost a lot of weight!), cleaned the injectors, added stiffer fork springs (again...nice improvement!) and added K&N pods (sounds great, looks great!). Just fixed a pesky oil leak that was hard (for me) to find, but easy to fix....almost embarrasing really...She runs very well. Pings only a smidge at part throttle when hot and only for a few hundred RPM. I think it's gas quality now frankly.
I have all of the stock parts that have been removed. I rotated the mufflers up and did a quickie fab of some brackets, but of course I still have the passenger peg/brackets as well. I also have a very nice Corbin saddle (yes, they do fit...and I'll show you the secret of how to make them work).
The reason I'm selling; I'm and MSF coach and a track day instructor/junkie. I have a full on Ducati 748/699 race bike, but I really need a litre bike (think Aprilia Mille R or Tuono) that has a little torque and makes moving around students easier. I've never had the Goose on the track...it's been my run around/poser bike!
I'm looking for $5,500...and I'll take $5,000 (yea, just cutting to the chase).
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I had a leak on mine from what first appeared to be the head gasket. 300 miles and it would leave oil on my left boot and traces between the head and barrel. It turned out to be the o rings on the head studs gone hard, in particular on the cap that fits over the stud on the inner most short stud. That one vents straight to the great outdoors by the oil feed pipe.
That's the common big block leak..
Ahhhhh....yet another possibility...
I think I'm just going to dump an entire bottle of baby power on the motor, set up a little fan for airflow, and watch it idle for a while.
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Thanks everyone for the replies!
Not impossible that it's coming from the cooler...hmmm....I've been chasing this dang thing for almost a year! It's a pretty healthy leak. I thought it might be coming from the "Y" connector on the top of the block, but it's dry all around. For some reason, I've got it in my head that it's the "O" ring on the short stud on top (in the cylinder) or the base gasket.
I'm going to try the powder trick again. I did before, but instead of idling it, I rode it. LOL...yea, that didn't work out so well. If I pull the cylinder with out putting the HiComp pistons it, I'll be pissed at myself, won't I?
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Hey gang...
Been a while since I posted...I bought my '02 Le Mans from a list member here who was chasing a timing cover leak. He thought he got it fixed, but after I aquired the bike, I found a few more locations where oil was finding it's way out. I thought I had them all covered...but alas, the right side leak has me baffled.
I THINK I have it traced to a base gasket. This may sound odd as my local dealer had a very hard time believing oil was coming from there. He even stated that he had never changed a base gasket before. Hmmmm.
So, I throwing this out to the collective; it would seem easier than it is to find an oil leak, but it proves tricky; those of us who've dealt with them on machinery can attest. Having said that; who here has seen a base gasket leak before? The good news is that it's an easy enough fix...
Any insight is greatly appreciated.
On another completely unrelated topic; I adjusted valves to Raceco specs. The change is very positive...close to dramatic actually. I still get a bit of detonation at part throttle, but from 4.5K and up, it's smooth, powerful and doesn't want to cough or die at stops. Stock exhaust, K&N pods, no PC.
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Thanks for the replies!!
The bar conversion looks very nice too...just not sure how if fits on the LeMans...
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I'm going waaaaaay out on a limb here, but...
I've never been a fan of rear brakes that took less than a very concerted effort to manipulate. In fact, I like them down right squishy.
It's the crash pedal...and the less "influence" the better.
Now...more than likely it's a caliper issue. It can probably be fixed with brake cleaner and effort, but if not, they aren't rocket science to clean up properly and rebuild if neccesary. I have found in the past that clean, used calipers are cheaper than rebuild kits sometimes. YRMV
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Thanks for the replies. The general consensus seems to be that there is no real negative effect.
The airbox had pools of oil in the bottom. More on the left than the right. This matches what I saw in the throttle body also. Probably someone got carried away with the filter oil?
The pods are cool, and whole lot easier than removing the fuel tank for cleaning. I worry that pods would be a bad choice for me since I frequently ride in the rain. Did you have to do anything to your fueling maps after installing pods?
Riding much in the rain probably isn't a great idea. They WILL get wet. As fair as a lean issue is concerned; depends on the bike. I don't have one, but others have had struggles. If you have a PCIII it's a non-issue for the mid and upper ranges.
YRMV...
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The Lambda probe, should you have one, says that removing the snorkels reduces airflow. Or, in other words, reduces power output. Holes in the airbox cover on my bike had no influence at all, besides that the box was onerously loud.
Basically it depends on your acception of the bike. If you find it better pulling or performing with those modifications then they are good for you and the bike. Otherwise go back to OEM configuration. It's not a bad one either.
hubert
There are a bunch of threads on it...I went a different route and installed K&N pods. I love them. Do they make more HP? I have no idea. It SOUNDS like it does and as sound is an important part of the motorcycling experience, then yes, it's a very good mod.
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Why yes, I've absolutely done a search...but I can't say that I've been able to definatively find good feedback on what I need.
Long story short..I'm a big dude with bad knees. I've got track bikes for practicing my Yoga...I need just a smidge of rise for the Le Mans. I'd prefer NOT to do a bar conversion as I like the clip ons. I THINK that leaves MPH and Convertibars if I'm not mistaken. If there's another idea...and pennytech is welcome, I'd love to hear it.
It looked like a few people tried some options several years ago that just didn't pan out and are no longer available...but again, ideas are much appreciated!
I would go with the MPH, a nice product that retains the clip ons
I certainly like the clean look of the MPH risers. Not that the convertibars are bad, just look "busy" with a lot of stuff going on around the triple with them. The MPH option almost looks factory...IMO...
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Why yes, I've absolutely done a search...but I can't say that I've been able to definatively find good feedback on what I need.
Long story short..I'm a big dude with bad knees. I've got track bikes for practicing my Yoga...I need just a smidge of rise for the Le Mans. I'd prefer NOT to do a bar conversion as I like the clip ons. I THINK that leaves MPH and Convertibars if I'm not mistaken. If there's another idea...and pennytech is welcome, I'd love to hear it.
It looked like a few people tried some options several years ago that just didn't pan out and are no longer available...but again, ideas are much appreciated!
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Bullshit.... So I can hit you & it's your fault ?
Sorry for the late reply...kinda forgot about the thread!
In a word..."YES", you can be hit and it can be your fault. As someone has noted, you can be right or you can be dead right. This rider was unskilled and made several mistakes that put him in the path of a driver that the rider himself knew was a danger.
No, legally he's not at fault. In the court of "riding and physics" he's absolutely at fault. Riding any other way gives you an "out". Ride and be 100% responsible for what happens to you and you'll be a better, safer rider.
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Hey Gang,
Just wanted to drop a line to the group and share my thoughts on my recent purchase of the Motobits peg relocator kit.
Here are the particulars:
Bike: 2002 Le Mans
Victim...er, rider: 45yo, 6'4 240lbs male, poor attitude, bad kneeds, likes beer and girls...avg. I suppose...
The Product: Motobits peg relocators.
Install time; 1hr45m
I ordered on a Tuesday, arrived at my house in Texas on Thursday...amazing!
The kit is very straight forward even if the instructions are a bit confussing. I don't blame this as much on the directions themselves as I do the nature of the area and parts where the work is done: many don't have names that are commonly known...but if the installer simply reads the directions, looks at the pictures and the bike, it should be completed with little hastle. I was looking for an option that would both lower and relocate forward the peg. This kit fits the bill. Parts are high quality and packaged well. It took me just under two hours to complete the installation, but a couple of caveats: I spent an appreciable amount of time trying to determine if I could do a reverse shift or "GP" shift pattern with this kit. I'm sure that I can, but I haven't yet figured it out. Secondly is that I have installed more than a few rearset kits on a few different bikes so I found installation pretty straight forward. All in all, it should take the average person about 2 hours. There's nothing difficult or technical.
Observations: These pegs are solid mounts, i.e. they don't fold. I like the feel of the pegs as they are knurled with plenty of grip. They provide a very solid feel which does vary from the traditional folding pegs. Having said that, the CAN BE hard on your shins and the backs of your legs when moving around in the garage or power walking. I don't find it an issue, and I'm guessing you won't either.
My grade? I give it an A-. Reason for the score; I'd like a simple way to reverse the shift pattern. I'm in a slim minority here I know...otherwise, they get a higher score.
Customer service is an A+. Exceeded expections with communication, shipping and support.
Cost: No score here...rearsets cost this and more. They are expensive, but that's relative and they are certainly in line with other products for Guzzi and any other make for that matter.
Just FYI...hope this helps anyone looking at this option.
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I think that one of the main reasons why people have problems doing this is that they are trying to do it whist there is still pressure in the hose which will lock the fitting in place.
LOL! Look at the gash on your hand!
Yea, I look like I'm a wild animal wrangler on the weekends because of the cuts and nicks on my hands...
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I had a similar mismatch when I first checked mine...I backed off all four rockers to ensure valves were closed for a recheck and numbers fell in place. I'd try that before going very much further...sorry if I missed that in the thread.
Keep smiling. kAs usual...I'm in on this thread late.
You likely have an update by now, and if you do, please share!
Ok, some thoughts; with most modern engines, a compression issue commonly occurs with valves. Nikasil lined barrels go huge miles without eating rings or the lining. I've seen bottom ends (not Guzzi) go 200K with the cross hatch still very visable. 7,800 is nothing...78,000 is nothing unless the engine was run dry...but it likely would have seized before damaging the barrels.
Ok...
I'd certainly look to valve adjustment and valve seats in that order. Guides don't impact compression, but if you're using oil, then guides may be an issue.
Top end stuff on motors like these are easy fixes. Valves are cheap and a rebuild shouldn't be much if you don't want to tackle it yourself.
My late .02 cents, but I just wanted to see where this project was..
Oh, and last point...is rideability impacted? If not...then what's the worry?
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I purchased my '02 Le Mans from fellow board member Edge (Richard Edginton) with Buell pegs and Two Brothers Racing handlebar risers already installed. It still seemed a bit "contortionist" for my old bones so I purchased and installed the Motratech control kit. That made a major improvement, but I started getting greedy/picky.
I thought I would like the position just a bit less forward and maybe a touch lower. Which is exactly what the Buell pegs do! Thinking it could not hurt to try, I put the Buell pegs on (a 5 minute job since the Motratech uses the stock Guzzi peg mounts) and rode about 230 miles. Very comfortable! For me this is just the ticket. I am 5'10" tall but have a short (for my height) 31" inseam. I do not think this setup would work nearly as well without handlebar risers as your hip to torso angle would probably be bent too far forward for comfort. The Two Brothers handlebar setup is no longer available, but the MPH riser kit or Convertibars would work equally well.
Hey, I know this is a "semi-old" thread...do either the aftermarket solutions offer the ability to reverse the shift pattern? I'm tryin get all of my bikes on one pattern if I can...track bike is reversed and is staying that way. It would be a plus to be able to accomplish this!
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It's been an interesting deal here in Dallas...an unlicensed driver..without insurance...is left off with only tickets.
Now, to the rider...he made about 5 mistakes in five seconds. What the video DOESN'T show, but what was quoted in the Dallas Morning News was the rider noted that the driver that hit him wasn't paying attention and was "playing around and acting foolish"...yet, he not only passed the driver, but got in front of her. His second mistake was his lack of ability to brake properly...notice the tire smoke? Third was that he was set up in the middle of the lane leaving himself no escape route. Fourth was that he wasn't checking his mirrors or his blind spots for drivers not paying attention.
Yea, another driver hit him...but it's his responsibility.
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Just wanting to clarify. If it was leaking from the temp sensor it would indicate a cracked head!!!!
Pete
That Permatex is better than I thought!
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It's the pressure switch. I had a pretty bad brain fart at work today...
Hey Guys...
Old thread and I forgot to post that I found the leak...oil temp (temp?) switch. I got it removed and noticed
a nice gouge in the mating surface on the block itself. Probably been there forever. I used so Prematex black gasket maker and coated the threads and washer with it. Torqued it back up...and problem solved.
Dang, that was a PIA.
Good news though...K&N pods, cleaned injectors, synched T/B's...she runs really nicely. No flat spots and pulls like a freight train through the rev band. No lean popping...just a very nice running bike now.
Suspension?
Yea, it pretty much sucks. Need to get to work on that...
Temperature sensor is in the back of the right hand cylinder head and doesn't go into an oil gallery??? Are you sureit wasn't the pressure sensor? front left hand side of the valley, just behind the timing chest??
Pete
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Hey Guys...
Old thread and I forgot to post that I found the leak...oil temp (temp?) switch. I got it removed and noticed
a nice gouge in the mating surface on the block itself. Probably been there forever. I used so Prematex black gasket maker and coated the threads and washer with it. Torqued it back up...and problem solved.
Dang, that was a PIA.
Good news though...K&N pods, cleaned injectors, synched T/B's...she runs really nicely. No flat spots and pulls like a freight train through the rev band. No lean popping...just a very nice running bike now.
Suspension?
Yea, it pretty much sucks. Need to get to work on that...
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Centech (google is your friend) or West Marine (not sure for canada...) for fuse panels.
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Whenever I built (build?) Iron Butt Rally type bikes, I normally install a seprately relayed fuse box and additional aux wiring for any extras. Four advantages to this;
1) Should you lose a heated vest/GPS/Game Boy, etc., you aren't losing any other bike systems (and vice versa)
2) You can mount the fuse box anywhere you'd like giving easy access should you need it.
3) You don't need an owners manual or a diagram should you get into a jam as YOU decide which circuits get which accesories.
4)It's completely and totally reversable.
Should you need switched power for a device instead of the box, simply use a double spade connector to tap the low beam and another relay. Sounds tougher than it is.
I rewired a BMW RT and placed hi/low/driving/fogs to different circuits on the aforemention aux fuse box. There was no way to lose my entire lighting system. Did the same for heated clothes, GPS, etc. Worked very well and I had access without removing seats, luggage, fuel tanks, etc.
FWIW...
Thanks, gentlemen.
Sorry, I should have mentioned that the Zumo 665 uses a hardwired crade, not an lighter socket/power point. So, my intent was to wire it into an existing switched circuit. For the horn relay, I have wired fused power from the battery, and am using the stock horn circuit to switch it when the button is pressed, so that wouldn't work well for other things.
I am really against cutting into any existing wiring, so my thought was to create a split patch lead to insert in between an existing termination point, thereby powering two devices without disturbing any of the stock wiring at all. I would then be able to return it to stock very easily by removing GPS along with the intermediate wire. Does this sound like a reasonable approach?
Thanks,
Shaun
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As johnk mentions, leak from timing cover gasket was very common. Most commonly on upper, left side just below engine mount. Sometimes you can just torque it up, sometimes gasket needs replacing or bodging. Also check oil breather pipes.
KB
It appears like it may be a front cover issue. I removed the tank, retorqued the pick up and the oil lines, restarted, and within minutes had oil pouring from the top cover again. On the ride home, it was enough to coat the shoulder of the rear tire
!Ah well, thanks again for the responses. It shouldn't be that big of a deal to fix...
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IBA, 1) the hollow bolt that holds the "V" shaped stainless oil line(s) that feed the rockers may be loose or cracked---dead center top of block, aft of the timing cover; 2) there is a similar larger hollow bolt on the frame under the tank that allows the frame to act as a breather/catch tank, mine leaked there, but you describe a great deal more oil than I dealt with, hence back to 1; 3) if the leak were on the left side only, I'd suspect the magnetic ignition pickup as the point of oil exit. May be some other spots, but these immediately come to mind. Believe you can reach point 1 with a wrench from your kit and that may get you home. k
Thanks for the quick response! It's much more on the left side, but it's coating both sides. Your description of an origination point seems pretty close to where it appears to be originating...and while it LOOKS substatial, as we all know, a little oil looks like a lot when it's blowing around and coating stuff. I might shag the afternoon, pull the tank and have a look. I can't get it to run right anyway, so I suppose I need to just tear into on all fronts!
Thanks again very much!
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I was riding my new to me '02 Le Mans to work today and arrived with boots coated with oil and headers smoking from a leak. It looked kinda cool (if you're a sicko) but probably isn't supposed to do that.
I would have waited to ask the question when I got home tonight...but it's substantial enough to ask on the board today in hoping for a little direction. It's got both sides of the engine case covered and it appears to be coming from the top of the motor...
Any ideas? Anyone?
Oil Leak-Right Side...The saga continues..
in Technical Topics
Posted
UPDATE!!!!
Oil leak found/fixed. Oil return lines. Whew! What a search! Yes, the oil does migrate to strange places. Yes, it's an easy fix...very easy!
Love this bike!
...but it's for sale. I can't keep them all
Look in the classifieds here for a sweet one.