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abouc

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Posts posted by abouc

    Front Brake Problem

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    I had a similar problem with the stock Brembo rotors. Freeing the bobbins provided some temporary relief, but was not a complete solution. Switching to EBC rotors completely cured the problem. It was NOT cheap, but was well worth the investment.

    Jumpy Speedometer

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    I replaced the angle drive a few weeks ago with a brand new OEM part. Cable was well lubricated and rerouted to avoid as many bends as possible. It worked beautifully for 1 week, then the cap blew off the angle drive going 80mph (or so). Back to no speedo again.

    tach vs speed

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    I figured out the following info within the first 3 months of owning my bike because research showed it was only a matter of time before the speedo crapped out - and it did.

     

    At 3000rpm (in any gear except 1st) is going the same mph as the gear x10. e.g. 3,000 rpm in 3rd is 30mph, 3,000rpm in 4th is 40mph, 3,000rpm in 5th gear is 50. 3,000 in 6th gear does NOT make for a happy V11.

     

    In 5th gear 5,000rpm is 80mph. 6th gear at 5,000rpm is approximately 90mph. I would estimate that 6,000 is in the triple digits .

     

    Since mid-June I've done about 5,000 miles of trouble free riding on those figures. However, I've finally purchased a replacement speedo cable/drive because the bike feels REALLY good around (and above) 6,000. All vibes go away and it just rides beautifully. Without the speedo telling me how fast I'm going it's way too easy to justify that good feeling instead of slowing back down.

    Horn Not Working

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    My problem was the switch. Remove the switch assy from the hendle bar and spray a contact cleaner and lube spray ( available at an electronics store) into the switch and work it very much and it should start working.

     

    I finally got around to looking into this and taking the assembly apart. There was a lot of water in there. Removed all the parts and cleaned/dried them. While everything was apart I tried the horn again and it worked! Reassembled and added a very light amount of dielectric grease to all the places where water would create problems and reassembled.

     

    20 minute fix. Next time it will be a 10 minute fix because I will know how each piece works.

    Greasing the drive shaft

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    ... make sure you look at the little unshielded roller bearing that acts as a pivot for the bevel box. This should be cleaned and greased every toime you take the wheel off, as it siezes very quickly. Then grease the wheel spindle to make sure it doesn't seize in the wheel in future and you're done.

     

    I learned this the hard way. The needle bearing had gotten so dry that it rusted and nearly seized up, burning up the inner race in the process. It cost me around $80 in parts and a few weeks of waiting. All because it wasn't greased with each tire change.

    Horn Not Working

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    I was riding in the rain the other day and a deer walked out into the road ahead of me. Naturally, I slowed and tried to beep the horn. But the horn didn't work. It worked fine the previous day, and every other time I've used it.

     

    So far, I've checked all my fuses and the connections at the horn. High beams, turn signals, tach etc. all work fine. Is there something that could cause this problem other than a faulty switch in the controls?

    How to remove rusted needle bearings?

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    Sorry, I thought I'd replied on another forum?

     

    The needle roller puller for the old five speed gearbox works for this job too. If you take your box to a decent shop with the factory tools they can do it or just find an engineering place with a set of expanding pullers and a FB slide-hammer.

     

    Pete

     

    Thanks Pete. I'm off to find some tools.

    How to remove rusted needle bearings?

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    I need to replace the rusted old needle bearings on the right side of the rear drive. Problem is that I can't get the old ones out. They are virtually locked in place. Some liberal pounding on the adjacent washer with the aid of a steel drift from the inside has only moved things enough to make the spacer loose.

     

    I'm very worried about what all this impact might do to the drive housing. It doesn't seem like it should be so hard. The wheel bearings came out cleanly with less than 10 blows each.

     

    Is it possible that the washer I'm placing the drift against doesn't exit the right side, but actually gets inserted from the inside?

     

    How have others removed these bearings?

    2003 Rosso Corsa: munted

    in 24/7 V11

    Posted

    Soooo, what's still good about this bike? :huh2:

     

    There are a few parts that would be worth buying, but other than that it seems pretty far gone. I've heard that even after fairly low speed crashes, spine frame Guzzis don't recover well.

    Blown Reaction Rod Bushings

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    I've removed the reaction rod, and the bushings look like they are nearly ineffectual. They are blown out on both ends, inner and outer. All 4 sides look like this.

     

    reaction_rod.jpg

     

    This is likely contributing to the harsh jerking when rolling on and off throttle.

     

    A few searches and a call to MG Cycle lead me to believe that it's not possible to buy just the bushings. It also would seem that there are no OEM assembly replacements readily available. MG Cycle carries a complete assembly by Stucchi. http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2653&osCsid=23eb9414aa65c810101dd4e9fea64516

     

    It's nice looking, but I was hoping for a less expensive option. What have others found when replacing these bushings? Maybe an automotive equivalent is available.

     

    The deeper I dig into this bike, the more love it needs. Good thing I love it. :bike:

    Cush Drive Washer - Stripped Screw Heads

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    Thanks for the info. I've tried heat, along with hammering a larger size star drive into the rounded heads. No luck. Maybe I didn't heat it long enough, but I was worried about getting the rubber bits too hot or ruining the wheel. Unfortunately I don't have access to any impact tools. Same goes for the front rotors which have to be replaced due to warping. Those wouldn't budge either. Before rounding them I decided to stop. Off to the dealer I go. They said they could take care of the stubborn fasteners when changing the tires & rotors.

    Cush Drive Washer - Stripped Screw Heads

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    I've just removed the rear wheel to service the cush drive for the first time. When trying to remove the 6 screws around the large washer, 3 were very stubborn, and 3 of the heads stripped. :doh: I'm leery of attempting to drill the screws out and risking damage to the wheel.

     

    Has anybody else had this happen? What course of action worked for you? For now, I'm going to let some PB blaster soak on them overnight in hopes they will be more cooperative tomorrow.

     

    This is not the first encounter with bolts that wouldn't break free on this bike. And surely it won't be the last.

    Sacrilege!

    in 24/7 V11

    Posted

    If it had the V-Rod engine, this wouldn't be half bad. It will never sell to the HD audience though because dealers wouldn't want it. Look what happened to Buell.

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