rbt1548
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Posts posted by rbt1548
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whatever you do it will always look a bit wonky from the back.
And here's me trying to forget my first love
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On mine the left hand one fits to the outside, the marks on the exhaust hanger bracket where it comes into contact with the metal spacer in the rubber bush on the pillion hanger indicate this. Also if I try and fit the hanger to the inside the hanger bolt heads would clatter against the hugger and the pipe will not marry up with the pipe from the collector box.
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The search function on this site never works quite how I think it will .
I thought it was just me who had difficulty locating stuff!
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What I eventually did was, when I got the message page up I saved it to "favourites" so just click onto that when I need to get into it.
Cheers
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You could buy or make a piston stop which fits directly into the spark plug hole
Once you have done that, turn engine completely one way 'til piston stops, mark that , then turn it the other way 'til piston stops; TDC is exactly in the centre point between both marks.
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thanks for the help, i've got it now.
acording to MG cycle that part has now been replaced by part # BL99231ch (guess i didn't dig deep enough)
thanks again
Does the switch come with the rubber boot That protects the terminals !!!. If not does anybody know the part no. For it, or a suitable alternative, mines has disintegrated with the harsh unforgiving scottish sun beating down on it.
Gary
You could use shrink wrap to protect it if nothing elase available.
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i can't seem to come up with the part # of the rear brake light switch on my '02 le Mans. anybody have it handy?
although i use the front brake more (what with the xlnt compression braking of the V11 engine) it'd be nice to have the rear brake brake light work (and it is the switch that's faulty)
thanks
Here you go.
22 14 65 70 50 1 Interruttore stop Stop microswitch Interrupteur stop Stop-Schalter
23 90
Taken from here , Illustrated Parts book....
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_manuals/spare_parts_catalog_v11_lemans_2002-07.pdf
Cheers
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The plot thinkens..... the photos above made me look again and my caps are as per the 2004 model shown. The left is definitely adjusting compression and right adjusting rebound. I have teh hollow axle which apparently came out with the 2003 upgrades, but I've got all the other 2003 upgrades like fuel punp in smooth tank, exhaust crosovers, and my bike still has engine paint. So I'm intrigued Rob, can you try turning your left and right adjusters fully in and see which part of the stroke each affects?
Will do, but got wheels off just now for cleaning, but will PM you the instructions straight out of the owners manual in case that helps just now.
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personally I'm just happy to have a bike that feels right.
That about covers it for me too! I had a wee look last night, In the ownwers manual, it says 6 turns fully open to closed for the rebound screw, I get 5; and 15 for the preload nut fully open to fully closed, I get 15.
The rear according to the manual the knurled adjuster on the remote for compression should be 43 fully open to closed, I get the 43; but at the rebound knurled adjuster it says I should get 34 open to closed, when I fully close,(clockwise), I get 9 clicks then no more clicks but it still will rotate anti clockwise for a good few turns.
The spring preload length is 152mm which the manual says is standard.
Anybody enlighten me on the rear rebound settings , any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
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Strange, mine have the proper C and R on the caps.
Bad quality control?
These are the caps that were fitted to bikes up to 2003, the 2004 seem to have the other caps fitted, there must have been a change over. I have one , a friend has one and the caps are the same. Also the owners manual shows the later type.
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Rob, I can't tell from the photo, are your caps labelled compression or rebound adjustment? You could be the magical person mentoned above with 2 compression caps
IN all seriousness, despite having R on my left cap it's definitely adjusting compression dampening. The reason I went back to the manual is I could feel compression changing and not having found a compression dampening adjuster didn't know what was happening. Whilst I could easilly keep the caps as they are and warn any future owner, I'd ideally like to have bleed valves anyway. Coming from a dirt bike background I release the built up pressure before every ride- fork seals seem to last longer that way. If I can't find caps with bleeders then I might just earn myself a bodge by using a permanent marker to write "c" on teh left cap
Hi PDoz, both my caps have "R" only on with arrows to the +&- and the small triangle, just took a pic of my own, hopefully it will be clearer for you.
Multi adjustable suspension is a black art to me, I think I'm someone who doesn't like too many options, and multi adjustable suspension is a bit intricate for me. I appreciate that some people will adjust their suspension to the Nth degree, but when talking to a suspension guy at a bike show he said some adjust their suspension just 'cos the manual says you can turn it a click this way or that and a lot of the bike mags are encouraging people to mess about with suspension settings that are prefectly fine from the factory but only if you were Rossi you would notice the difference. We all know you do have to change some settings if you maybe change from solo to a pillion and luggage, but sometimes I wonder if the mechanic was correct and we change them too much because we are encouraged to do so.
I realise that your problem is totally different, yours is all over the place and needs to be sorted, at least you know what your are doing and what to look for
, whereas me, I would go to the standard settings and only adjust if I had to, I realise that is probably sacrilege to lots of people but I'm not confindent enough on suspension to mess too much with it.Any idea what is the fully closed direction on the rear?
Good luck and I hope you get it sorted!
My caps;
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Regarding the wiring being stiff and difficult to bend, there is a thread on starter wires on the Norton forum,
basically it suggests using welding cable gauge 6AWG it is made up of many strands of wire and is very pliable and gives a good cross sectional area to transfer the current. I did make a set and they are very easy to make by crimping on the connections and insulating them with shrink wrap.
Also they do work, Norton starter motors are notoriously slow to turn over but I have noticed a big improvement since changing the cables.
The bonus of doing them yourself is, it will not be as expensive and you can cut them to whatever size you need.
6th post down from link below
http://www.accessnorton.com/post26121.html?hilit='welding wire'#p26121
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I consider myself reasonably capable of adjusting my suspension, but the past month with my 02 lemans had me stumped!
Something was very wrong - every time I adjusted the rebound it felt like I was adjusting compression as well.... so back home to read the manual.....Hmmm, Ok, so LEFT FORK IS COMPRESSION...that explains a lot! One day I'm going to visit the moto guzzi factory and find the genius who fitted 2 right side fork caps on my bike..... and I'm going to make damn sure he never does it again!
My adjusters are both the same too, Marzocchi's, 2007, (late registered, late 2004 ), Le mans, I think they changed them in 2004 to both the same.
First pic is of a 2003 model, second pic is a 2004 model the same as my own. My friend has also a 2004 and the fork caps are the same.
Is it possible someone has fitted a later pair of forks?
It also says in the owners handbook... "The motorcycle is equiped with a hydraulic telescopic fork with separate adjustment of the shock absorbers during rebound and preload", nothing about compression.
Does anyone know , on a 2004 model , when it says "from fully closed" which way is fully closed, especially on rear. On front the book does say "3 turns anti clockwise from fully closed so fully closed in the front's case is clockwise, but what way is it fully closed on the rear?
Cheers
Robert
2003
2004
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Meant to say mine is a 2007 reg, (04 built), Le Mans and I'll need to get 2 q/rel couplings. The markings on one hose states 8mm I think they are both same dia on mine.
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Hi All, because of the not so nice weather I decided to strip my bike down and clean out the nooks and cranies, and check the air filter as I hadn't had chance since I bought the bike a month ago.
I looked at Haydnr's great video on how to release the fuel couplings and it all seemed straightforward, the problem I have though, is a few years ago, I broke both my scafoid and thumb and can't seem to get enough grip/purchase on the couplings.
Now I don't know if anybody has done this or has considered it, but, not wanting to risk snapping the plastic elbows by using too much brute force at the wrong place, as documented on the site, I thought about inserting a quick release coupling into the fuel lines, the type that just has a metal button to release, and securing them into the line with fuel clips. That way it may be easier for me to disconnect and connect the fuel lines to the tank.
Is it a viable option?, all opinions welcome.
Thanks
Robert
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I think you can still buy a new one for "only" £18000 on special order.
Aye, but you can't boast that "it was a bargain from e bay at $62k "
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The BMWs were/are not the servo assist type.
Abs is one of those things where I think the concept is a good one but not to everyones taste, especially if when it fails it takes most of your braking power with it. BMW acknowledge there is a problem on that particular model, but still fit the same replacements, what's that all about???.
Anyway, would I have another ABS equiped bike?, probably, but one that was fully sorted, as for my V11 brakes, I know what I have to play with and am ok with it.
Happy New Year
To add to what was said earlier about ABS/ servo brakes on BMW, they do indeed give you very good braking, but that is one of the reasons I don't have mine now. I had a 2003 Rockster Edition 80 and the ABS failed whilst riding it last year, and when the ABS fails on that particular ABS unit you have virtually no brakes, as the servo fails too!, not too clever an arrangement when howling up to a roundabout!!!!, I ended up dropping down a few gears while pulling hard on the front brake and pressing the back brake, and made it round.
It seemingly is a known weak spot on the BM's ABS2 system. I took it in for a reading just to make sure it had gone, the front pressure should read between 12 & 29 bar, mine was reading 133 bar, I still have the print out, it was as if the abs was on all the time. Cost to fix?.........."£1400 for the parts + labour + Vat to you sir!" for some reason I luckily took out a warranty a few months before and it got fixed under warranty, but on riding it home all I could do was look at the red warning light to see if it was on and you can't ride like that thinking it might fail so I sold it right away.
Yes ABS may be a great advance in braking and may help you on occasion,(I had it on mt R1200ST and it was good), but things can become too complicated, especially if they affect other parts of the bike.
I'm happy with the V11's brakes, maybe not as powerful as some, but enough for me, you change your braking style to suit, same as you change your clutch style or method of changing gears when riding another bike as most are slightly different , after a wee while the new way becomes like second nature.
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To add to what was said earlier about ABS/ servo brakes on BMW, they do indeed give you very good braking, but that is one of the reasons I don't have mine now. I had a 2003 Rockster Edition 80 and the ABS failed whilst riding it last year, and when the ABS fails on that particular ABS unit you have virtually no brakes, as the servo fails too!, not too clever an arrangement when howling up to a roundabout!!!!, I ended up dropping down a few gears while pulling hard on the front brake and pressing the back brake, and made it round.
It seemingly is a known weak spot on the BM's ABS2 system. I took it in for a reading just to make sure it had gone, the front pressure should read between 12 & 29 bar, mine was reading 133 bar, I still have the print out, it was as if the abs was on all the time. Cost to fix?.........."£1400 for the parts + labour + Vat to you sir!" for some reason I luckily took out a warranty a few months before and it got fixed under warranty, but on riding it home all I could do was look at the red warning light to see if it was on and you can't ride like that thinking it might fail so I sold it right away.
Yes ABS may be a great advance in braking and may help you on occasion,(I had it on mt R1200ST and it was good), but things can become too complicated, especially if they affect other parts of the bike.
I'm happy with the V11's brakes, maybe not as powerful as some, but enough for me, you change your braking style to suit, same as you change your clutch style or method of changing gears when riding another bike as most are slightly different , after a wee while the new way becomes like second nature.
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What browser are you using? I can't recreate the problem, so it's almost impossible to find out what's happening.
Hi Admin Jaap,
I am using Internet Explorer 9, on both. It's probably something very simple,(ME!!),maybe not clicking the right button or something equally as daft.
Sorry for the hassle,
Robert
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Tried it on laptop, same thing happening. ???
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Weird problem... But I think it's browser or cookie related. If you refresh the page do you again have the problem?
Yes, still do, but checked it a few mins ago and they were back up, but now gone again!!, as you say , 'weird'
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Hi All, I hope I've put this in the correct section, if not feel free to move it to where it should be.
I cannot seem to open my messages section, I click onto 'my profile',at the top right hand corner of the screen, then to 'messages' and it goes straight to 'my profile' main page, this happened before but I closed the forum came back to it and it was ok. It does it with each of the headings in the list, click onto any one and it goes to 'my profile' page. I know there are messages, I got them in my email address and I answered one last night through'my messages', but today again I cannot access them, any ideas to what could be causing this, or am I doing something wrong?, any help appreciated.
Merry Christmas to you all.
Cheers
Robert
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I got the V11 home and on going round it noticed a few things needing a bit of tlc, l/hand mirror is one, as it is badly scraped, if I can't get one I'll fill it and paint them both.
Also some scrapes on rocker covers, may also either repaint them or polish them.
Finally a clutch lever may be needed.
If anyone has any of these items for sale I'd be interested.
Cheers
Robert
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I thought it was an age thing!!!!!!
hugger removal
in Technical Topics
Posted
Hi Paul, I take it the insert are rotating?, as they are not load bearing screws that will be put under pressure, maybe some 'metal weld' around the edge of the hole to stop the insert rotating and if necessary, if the thread is damaged, some into the hole and recut the standard thread.