Jump to content

Lawrence

Members
  • Posts

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Lawrence

  1. I think what Hubert is saying is to listen to the pitch of the electric fuel pump. It will be lower pitch when it is pushing liquid fuel, but run faster and at a higher pitch when it is pushing vapor.

    Leave the key in the on position, then turn the kill switch on the handlebar off. Turing the kill switch back on turns the pump on. The pump turns on (cycles for 2 seconds). Do that a couple of times.

     

    Thanks JRT, That's what I figured, but wanted to be sure he was suggesting that this procedure might actually clear the "bubble".

  2. You should listen to the pump. It tells you all what's going on. Listen to it how it sounds in the morning and listen how it sounds when it's running free in a vapour bubble. Everybody can tell the difference. It's that easy, really. Cycle the pump (or more precisely the ecu) switching the kill switch until you can hear the standard flush, then press the starter button.

     

    Hubert

     

    Hubert, Thanks for the tip. I do know the sound of the pump priming when the ignition key is turned on, but need to pay attention to it when it is in a vapor bubble. However, I don't follow, the pump cycling... sorry, a little dense over here... With the ignition key on, cycle the kill switch until the correct flushing sound is heard and this will clear a vapor lock bubble?

  3. Had what can best be described based on symptoms as a vapor lock last weekend. Rode my 2000 V11 Sport about 20 miles on a warm afternoon, stopped 10 min for a cool drink and engine, after starting right up sputtered as if starved for fuel. After a tow home and about 2 hours of head scratching and forum searching, I got turned on to the vapor lock scenario. Went out to the garage, bike started right up! Rode it the next day for about another 20 miles with no problems.

     

    Today, with air temp around 85F, I went for about a 5 mile ride to a weekly evening bike gathering, parked bike for about an hour and as I left, same symptoms as last weekend, but made it about 1/4 mile before the stall. Let it sit for 30 min, tried again and stalled on me again. I am now leaving it over night to see what will happen in the morning.

     

    I just keep thinking that there may be something else. The fuel pump and fuel lines did not feel too warm when this was happening, although the cylinder was very hot.

     

    Could the bike be over-heating? How can I verify that I am getting oil pressure? And passage through the oil radiator?

  4. Is there anything I should do to try and check this out more, or simply chalk it up to vapor lock?

     

    Vapor lock, for certain. All the external fuel-pump models are susceptible to it. Symptomology is exactly as you described: nice, spirited ride on a warm day to get the motor hot, stop the bike for longer than a quick fuel stop & let the fuel lines get heat soaked, & the bike fails to start. Once everything cools off, it's back to normal, no signs of failure.

     

    Only thing that can be done is either: A] Swap the fuel tank & pump for the late model one (where the fuel pump is inside the tank to keep it cool & protected from the heat off the motor) - expen$ive! or B] try to insulate the fuel pump & attached lines as well as possible with appropriate materials (there's stuff out there in meat-space that you can use for this: check with homebuilt airplane supply catalogs like Aircraft Spruce or racing car parts places like Summit, JEGS, etc. for hi-temp insulation.) :luigi:

     

    Best o' luck to you! :bike:

     

     

    Thanks Skeeve!!

  5. Great- I think...

    OK, well, I don't know if it can be "fixed", but at least it can be mitigated pretty well. Someone on this forum (sorry, I forgot whom) sent me a piece of insulated pipe from some aerospace application. Rubber on the outside, fiberglass inside. Slip it over the fuel intake and it's supposed to fix the problem. I haven't tried it yet, but you might be able to get the stuff from McMaster-Carr. Look for about 1/2" internal diameter. I'm working on (questionable) memory here, so you probably should measure the OD of your intake.

    I'm glad it's nothing major. Just a PIA.

     

     

    Thanks for the insulation tip! Lawrence

  6. vapor lock? It was a common problem on some early models.

    Let it sit until completely cool, then try to restart.

     

     

    Funny you should suggest this! I just went out in the garage to check for fuel pump priming, (it's been about an hour and a half since it stalled). The pump priming sound was normal, tried to start, and it started right up!!

     

    Is there anything I should do to try and check this out more, or simply chalk it up to vapor lock? I've had the bike since last September, it had 7500 miles, 1500 of those are mine miles and with no issues what so ever.

     

    Lawrence

  7. Out riding my 2000 V11 Sport today, filled up with fuel and rode 20 miles on state highway, bike running great, stopped for a drink, got back on started off and bike died. Sputtered like it was struggling to get fuel, but would not start. A couple of more attempts got a bit of firing when choked, but then that stopped.

     

    Stymied! Any suggestions on where to start diagnosis? I'm thinking fuel pump...?

     

    Any suggestions would be appreciated!

     

    Lawrence

  8. I didn't get a tool when I purchased my V11 Sport and I don't have easy access to a welder so I used a bolt and nuts with 27 mm heads in the configuration shown in the pics. Lock washer between the nuts prevents nut slippage (I hate when that happens!!)... Cost me $7.00 at Ace hardware. Works great!

    Pic1.jpg

    Pic2.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...